
. 


/ 






» 











I 


V 


I 


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advertisement. 


Awarded three highest prizes at New Orleans 

Exposition in 1885. 



*fLExi ble Hip * H^lth^ursing. 

Abdo/ain al* (0 r ali n e 4 F \\ ss E s* 


Ooraline is not Hemp, /Tampico, or "Mexican Grass. 

CorHline is used in tlo goods except those sold by Warner Brothers. 

The genuine Coraline is superior' to whalebone, and gives honest value and 
/perfect satisfaction. 

Imitations are a fraud and' dear at anypricC. 

For sale by all leading merchants. Brice from $1.00 up. 


853 BROADWAY, New York. 141 & 143 "WABASH am, Chicago. 




















































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Dr. Danelson’s Counselor, with Recipes : A 

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contain d in its pages, etc.”— Albert Danker, D. D., 
“ Gra-e Rectory,” Watertown, N. Y. 

A Handy Classical and Mythological Dic¬ 
tionary for popular use, with seventy illustrations. By 
H C Faulkner. It is the design of this volume to pro¬ 
vide the ordinary reader with a brief and concise explana¬ 
tion of the ancient Mythological, Classical, Biographical, 
Historical, and Geographical Allusions most frequently 
met with U English Literature, in art representations of 
Classical Deities and Heroes, in newspaper discussions, 
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A Handy Dictionary of Synonyms, with which 

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These books may be obtained of your bookseller, or they will be sent post-paid on 
receipt of the price by the publisher. A. L. BURT, 162 William St., New York. 


‘N 


t 


* 




Knitting and Crochet. 


A GUIDE TO THE USE OF 


The Needle and the Hook. 


“To attain by hook or crook.” 

Spenser's Faery Queen. 

“ The httle work-tables of womens fingers, are the play-ground of women’s fancies, and 
their knitting-needles are fairy-wands by which they transform a whole room into a spirit-isle 
of dreams. 

Richter. 


“Studious of ease, and fond of humble things.” 

Ambrose Phillips. 

By the needle you shall draw the thread, and by that which is past, see how that which 
is to come, be drawn on.” 

George Herbert. 


200 ILLUSTRATIONS. 


Edited by Mrs. Croly, 

(JENNY JUNE.) 



r\ 


NEW YORK : 

A. L. BURT, PUBLISHER. 


a 




i88 5 . 






















COPYRIGHT, 1885, IJY A. I.. HURT. 


Press of J. J. Little & Co., 

Nos. 10 to 20 Astor Place, New York. 





INTRODUCTION. 


Knitting is one of the oldest forms of needle-work, and one of the most 
diversified, and interesting. It covers a range as wide as the universe, and older 
than history, including every class, and degree, from the princess to the peasant. 
There is no country where some form of knitting, or netting, is not known, and 
practiced, and there is no civilization so advanced as to shut out the use of the 
swift little implements, which are useful alike in the formation of the woolen stock¬ 
ing, or the silken purse. In Germany, and Switzerland, the women knit, as they 
sit beside their wares in the market-platz ; and even as they walk to and from the 
shrine, or chapel. Knitting is work that employs the hands, when thought and 
brain are busy with other things. It is the earliest work taught to the child • it is 
the last upon which the fingers of the aged are employed. 

• Recent exhibitions of women’s industries in this country, and Great Britain, 
have brought to light wonderful specimens of knitting and spinning, one seeming 
to be coeval with the other. Iceland, and the far countries of the North, send not 
only knitting, but knitters, one of whom was poet as well, and she told interested 
hearers how the wool is carded, and spun, and knit, while the old songs are sung, 
and the sagas read by the fireside. Ireland has not forgotten the art of knitting, 
and the recent interest in macrame and twine knitting for decorative purposes, has 
revived something of the ancient prestige, which is never lost, only concealed 
sometimes under the numerous and more modern ideas in fancy work. 

In arranging the present work, especial pains has been taken to systematize, 
and classify its different departments—give the greatest possible variety of designs, 
and stitches, and explain the technical details so clearly, that any one who can 
knit, or crochet at all, can follow the directions. Of stitches there are, particularly, 
an unusual diversity, which can be adapted to many different purposes, according 
to the needs and intelligence of the worker. In this respect, both in knitting and 
crochet, this work will be found, we believe, superior to most others, even to some 
of greater pretentions, and all that can be desired by the most enthusiastic amateur. 
The tricot-stitches deserve special mention, also the great number of patterns, fully 










4 


IN TROD UCTION, 


and carefully described, nearly every one of which has been tested by an expert 
before its insertion in this collection. 

Descriptions and directions usually leave one-half, at least, to the imagina¬ 
tion, but this is not the case with the present work. The aim of editor, and her 
colleague, has been to supply an accurate and satisfactory guide through the pleas¬ 
ant paths of that dream-land of women, known as knitting, and crochet work. If 
it recalls to the old the pleasant hours, and days of their youth, ; if it lurnishes to 
the young a defense against weariness, and ennui, and supplies to the middle-aged— 
that terrible period to women, when they have lost the charm of youth, without 
acquiring the veneration due to age—something by which to beautify their sur¬ 
roundings, and lighten their monotonous hours, it will have done all that is ex¬ 
pected of it, and impart to its makers a share in the serene consciousness which 
arises from the proper fulfillment of function. 


Jenny June. 


CONTENTS. 


KNITTING. 

Knitting from patterns, 

Knitting gauge, - 

Afghan, Baby’s, .... 

Bind, or join together, - 

Boct, Lady’s, ----- 

Borders, ----- 

Braces, ------ 

Brioche, or patent knitting - - - 

Cable pattern, - 

Cane-work pattern, - - - - 

Cast on with one needle, To, - - - 

Cast on with two needles, To, - 
Cast off, To, - 

Chemise yoke and sleeve, - - - 

Clouds, ------ 

Comforter (open stitch for gentlemen’s), 

Coral pattern, ----- 

Counterpane, with diamond stripe, 

Counterpane, Border for, - 

Cross-over, - - - - - 

Decrease or narrow, To, 

Decrease from the back, To, - - - 

Decrease in purl knitting, 

Diamond with open trellis, - - - 

Double heel for stocking (old lady’s recipe), 
Double knitting pattern, - - - - 

Drawers, Lady’s (medium size), 

Dropped stitches, - - - - - 

Edge stitch, ----- 

Edgings, ------ 

Fancy knitting, - 

Fasten on, To, - - - - - 

Fasten two threads together, To, 

Gaiter, Infant’s, - - - - - 

Gothic pattern, - - - - 

Heels for stockings (Dutch and other), - 
Herring-bone stripe, - 

Increase or widen, To, - - - - 


PAGE. 

J 3 

13 
6 5 
17 

49 
41-45 
45 
2 3 
26 
19 

14 

14 

16 

- 38 

63 

- 39 

2 3 

- 66 
7i 

■ 37 
16 
16 

16 

‘ 25 

55 

22 

51 

17 
17 

39-42 

21 

17 

G 

5° 

24 

■ 54 
19 

• i5 






IU 


CONTENTS. 


Increase, Another method (double stitch), 

Increase, Another method (two in one), - 

Insertions, - 

Jacket, Baby’s, - 

Jacket, Infant’s, - 

Knee cap, ------ 

Knit at the back, To, 

Knotted stitch, - 

Leaf and trellis pattern, 

Looped knitting, - 
Marks, - 

Mitten, Fancy silk, - 

Peacock’s-tail pattern, - - - 

Petticoat, Child’s, - 
Petticoat, Infant’s, 

Petticoat, Lady’s, - 

Pick up or raise a stitch, To, - 

Plain knitting (English method), 

Plain knitting (German method), 

Purl, rib, or seam (English method), 

Purl, rib, or seam (German method), 
Purse, Lady’s, - 

Ouilt, Oak-leaf, 

Re-kneeing, - 

Round, A, 

Round knitting, - 
Row, A, - 

Rug, Imitation Smyrna, 

Rug, Rag, 

Rugs, - - - - - 

Shawl, Half square, 

Shirt, Baby’s, - 

Slip or pass a stitch, To, 

Slipper, - 

Socks, Baby’s, - - - - 

Sock, Baby’s Shetland, 

Sock, Gentleman’s, 

Star toe, - 
Stocking knitting 
Stockings, socks, etc., Design for, 
Stocking, Child’s, 

Stocking (in rhyme), 

Stocking, Knickerbocker for boy, 
Stocking, Lady’s dress, 

Stocking, Lady’s winter, 

Stocking, Railroad (silk), - 
Stripe, with crochet edge, 

Stripe, with hemmed top for stocking, 
Stripe, with twisted bars, 



_ 


• 


. 


- 

PAGE. 

l6 

- 


- 


- 


- 

- 

16 


- 


- 


- 


3 8 -4 

i-43 

- 


- 


- 


- 

- 

34 


- 


- 


- 


- 

35 

- 


- 


- 


- 

- 

5 2 


- 


- 


- 


- 

16 

- 


- 


- 


- 

- 

2 3 


- 


- 


- 


- 

20 

- 


- 


- 


- 

- 

20 


- 


- 


- 


- 

n 

- 


- 


- 


- 

- 

62 


- 


- 


- 


- 

18 

- 


- 


- 


- 

- 

33 


- 


- 


- 


- 

3 2 ' 

- 


- 


- 


- 

- 

34 


- 


- 


- 


- 

16 

- 


- 


- 


- 

- 

*5 


- 


- 


- 


- 

15 

- 


- 


- 


- 

- 

15 


- 


- 


- 


- 

!5 

- 


- 


- 


- 

- 

64 


- 


- 


- 


- 

73 

- 


- 


- 


- 

- 

54 


- 


- 


- 


- 

G 

- 


- 


- 


- 

- 

16 


- 


- 


- 


- 

17 

- 


- 


- 


- 

- 

77 


- 


- 


- 


- 

76 

- 


- 


- 


- 

- 

76 


- 


- 


- 


- 

3 6 

- 


- 


- 


- 

- 

3 1 


- 


- 


- 


- 

76 

- 


- 


- 


- 

- 

5° 


- 


- 


- 


- 

46 

- 


- 


- 


- 

- 

48 


- 


- 


- 


- 

60 

- 


- 


- 


- 

- 

54 


- 


- 


- 


- 

53 

- 


- 


- 


- 

- 



- 


- 


- 


- 

62 

- 


- 


- 


- 

- 

55 


- 


- 


- 


- 

61 

- 


- 


- 


- 

- 

58 


- 


- 


- 


- 

57 

- 


- 


- 


- 

- 

59 


- 


- 


- 


- 

40 

- 


- 


- 


- 

- 

2 7 


- 


- 


- 


- 

19 


CONTENTS. 


Triangular kilted pattern, 

Turned row, A, - 

Undervest, Lady’s knitted silk, 

Undervest, Lady’s woolen, ... 
Vandyke pattern, - 

W ave pattern, ----- 
Venetian lace, - 

MACRAME. 

Materials, ----- 

Bar, with knot, - - - - 

Chain (simple), - - - - 

Chains and open knotting, TUth twisted chains, 
Chains in row, with open knotting, 

Cross-bar, worked over with Solomon knots, 
Cross-knot for open diamonds, 

Fringes, ------ 

Fringe (in two colors), - - - 

Fringe (with silk pompons), 

Fringe of two colors, - 

Fringe with tassels, - - - - 

Heading ribs and diamonds, 

Heading, with slanting ribs, 

Knot worked with eight strands, 

Loom, 

Old knotted laces, - - - - 

Picot heading, - 
Patent lace desk, - 

Slanting rib from right to left, 

Slanting rib from left to right, 

Spherical knot, - - - - - 

Spiral cord, ----- 

Solomon’s knot, - 
Two bars with knots, - 
Vandyke finished without fringe, 

Waved bar, ----- 

CROCHET. 

Afghan (handsome), - - - - 

Bicycle cap, - - - - - 

Bonnet (child’s), - - - - - 

Boot (infant’s), in silk knitting arrasene, 

Boot (infant’s), in crochet tricotee, 

Borders, • - - - - 

Bottine (infant’s), tricot, - 

Cape, - - 

Chemise trimming, - 

Cosy (for baby’s bottle), 

Counterpane, - 

Counterpane, Insertion for, 


11 

PAGE. 

22 

16 

28 

3° 

18 

26 

44 


80 

81 

82 

- 85 

85 

- 86 

86 
88-89 

89 

- 90 

90 

- 90 

82 

- 84 

83 

80 

86-87-88 

- 86 

80 

82 

83 

- 84 

83 

- 81 

81 
85 

84 


- *33 
116 

- ri 3 
110 

hi 

- 105-107 
109 
122 
102 


144 
* 137 

139 





12 


CONTENTS. 


Counterpane, Border for, 

Dress (child’s) 

Edging (crochet and hair-pin), 

Fanchcn (lady’s), ... 
Hair-pin, - 

Hood (baby’s), crochet and knitting, 
Insertion (crochet and mignardise), 
Insertion, .... 

Lace, - 

Mitten (baby’s), ... 

Petticoat (in tricotee), 

Purses, 

Ouilt (in round crochet tricotee), 

Rug, * 

Shawl (round), 

Shawl (square), - 

Shawl (square, in crazy pattern), 

Shell pattern, - - - - 

Slipper (lady’s), ... 

Stitches. —Afghan (see tricot), - 

Chain, ... 

Cross treble, - 
Double crochet, 

Double foundation, 

Double foundation (with one 
Double foundation (with tw 
Double raised, 

Double treble, 

Half treble, 

Picot or purl, - 
Ring, 

Single crochet, 

Slip stitch, 

Spot (raised), 

Spot (hollow), 

Treble (or long crochet), 
Tricot (or afghan), 

Tricot and treble, 

Tricot, Basket pattern, 

Tricot, Cross, - 
Tricct, Ecossais, - 
Tricot, Fancy, 

Tricot, Josephine, 

Tricot, Muscovite, 

Tricot, Open, 

Tricot, Point de, 

Tam O’Shanter, 

Trimming (crochet and hair-pin), 


- 140 
- 123-127 

----- no 

113 

icS 

US 

104 

105 
101 
112 

- 141 

142-143 

134 

- 144 

11 7 

- 119 
121 

- 97 
hi 

. 94 

92 

. 95 

93 
93 

thread), 93 

threads), - - - * 93 

104 

- 94 
93 

- 94 
101 

. 93 

93 
100 

100 

94 
94 

- 95 

.98 

. 95 

96 

- 95-97-98-99 

100 

96 

96 

- 98 

117 

- - - - - 108 


Knitting and Crochet. 


KNITTING FROM PATTERNS. 

To novices, we would say, do not be afraid that you cannot work a pattern, 
because you do not fully understand it, without working it. Take your needles 
and cotton, and follow out the directions—you will find the rough places grow 
plain, and ninety-nine out of a hundred difficulties will disappear. The difference 
between understanding a knitting pattern—as an abstract matter—and understand¬ 
ing it as you work it, is like the difference between working a difficult problem 
in arithmetic in your head and doing it on paper. 

We speak whereof we know, having been personally converted from arrant 
skepticism to a full faith in the charm and possibility of working from patterns. 
Only a beginner must begin from the beginning, and become familiar with the 
elementary terms and stitches, before attempting anything that is elaborate. 

In this little work, directions are carefully given for beginning from the start. 



KNITTING GAUGE. 

Many people use a gauge for measuring the needles accurately, although 
many do not consider it necessary, especially as gauges are somewhat expensive. 








M 


KNITTING AND CROCHET. 


The one we illustrate is Walker’s. The German gauges proceed on a different 
principle from the English or the American—the numbers running the reverse 
way. 

It is a good plan, in knitting articles that must be of a given size, to knit a few 
rows, and then measure them carefully. You will thus see how many rows of 
your work make an inch, and can calculate exactly how many stitches will be 
needed. 


KNITTING—GENERAL DIRECTIONS. 

The first step to be taken in knitting is to cast on, or as it is sometimes called, 
to knit on the stitches. 

NO. I.-TO CAST ON WITH ONE NEEDLE. 

Twist the cotton once round the left forefinger; hold one end of cotton between 

the thumb and second finger of left hand. Hold 
your needle in the right hand; keep the other end 
of the cotton over the right forefinger, under the 
second and third fingers, and over the little finger; 
pass the needle under the cotton on left forefinger, 
from left to right; now pass the cotton, in the right 
hand, around the needle, by moving the right fore¬ 
finger; draw the needle, with the cotton round it, to 
the left, so as to bring it under the loop on finger in 
No j which it was inserted; slip the cotton off the left 

forefinger, and tighten it to form the stitch. Repeat from beginning, until you have 
the requisite number of stitches. 

NO 2 . -TO CAST ON WITH TWO NEEDLES. 

If you have many stitches, it is better to have two needles than one, for casting 
on. Make a loop over the left-hand 
needle, near the end of the cotton; 
put the right-hand needle into this 
loop, passing it through from left to 
right, and keeping it under the other. 

Put the cotton over the right-hand 
needle, between it and the left-hand 
needle, and draw the loop up with 
the right hand; now draw the loop 
on right needle through the loop on 
the left needle, bringing the right 
needle in front. Transfer the new 
stitch thus made to the left-hand 
needle, putting the left needle 
through the left side of the loop. Leave the right-hand needle also in the 
loop, ready for the next stitch. It is a good plan to cast on with a double 



No. 2. 





KNITTING AND CROCHET. 


*5 


thread, at the top of a stocking, or in any place where there will be much 
weai. 

NO. 3.-PLAIN KNITTING-ENGLISH METHOD. 

Pass the right-hand needle into the first stitch on left-hand needle; throw the 
thread forward over the right-hand needle; now draw the loop on right-hand 
needle through that on left-hand needle, pushing down the point of the right-hand 
needle w ; th the left forefinger. Now slip off the old stitch from left-hand needle, 
letting it fall between the two needles. Treat the next stitch on left-hand needle 
like the first, and so on to the end of the row. This is the English and American 
way of knitting, but the German method is far preferable, in our opinion. It 
involves less jerking of the hands, is quieter, less fatiguing, simpler and quicker. 


NO. 4.-TO PURL, RIB, OR SEAM-ENGLISH METHOD. 

* 

Bring your thread round in front of your work (toward you), instead of behind 

it, as in plain knitting; now pass your right-hand 
needle through the stitch from right to left, keeping it 
in front of the left-hand needle, pass the thread around 
right-hand needle, and draw the loop thus formed 
through the stitch on left needle, the right-hand needle 
being thus drawn behind the left-hand one. Slip off 
No - 4 - the old stitch, as in plain knitting. If the next stitch 

is to be a plain one,be sure to restore your thread to its place behind the work before 
beginning the plain stitch; this is called, pass the thread back. 





m 
HM 


NO. 5.-PLAIN KNITTING-GERMAN METHOD. 

Hold your thread in the left hand, instead of the right, passing it over the 
forefinger, under the second and third fingers, and over the little finger. Put the 
right-hand needle into the first stitch, .as in English plain knitting, now draw the 
thread through the stitch by means of the point of right-hand needle, and slip off 
the old stitch from left-hand needle, pushing down the point of the left-hand 
needle with the right second finger. 

NO. 6.-TO PURL, ETC.-GERMAN. 

Bring the thread to the front of the work, holding it over the fingers of the 
left hand, as in plain German knitting; put the needle in at the right hand of the 
stitch, bring it out in front of the work; catch up the thread and draw the new 
stitch out at the back of the work. 


NO. 7.-TO WIDEN, INCREASE, OR MAKE A STITCH-CALLED ALSO TO MAKE AN OVER, 

OR TO BRING FORWARD, OR COTTON FORWARD. 

Bring the thread forward from the back of the work to the front, between the 
needles, and throw it over the right-hand needle, to 
be in readiness for the next stitch. In purling, pass 
the thread entirely around the right-hand needle, back 
to where it started from (in front). The over is the 
way of increase used for open knitting patterns. If 
you wish to make two stitches, pass the thread twice 
around the needle; if three stitches, then three times. 

In the next row, when you knit these new-made 
stitches, you can knit the first like any stitch, but in 
order to knit the second you must put the needle into the back loop of stitch, 
instead of front. 





i6 


KNITTING AND CROCHET. 


NO. 8.-ANOTHER MODE OF INCREASE-DOUBLE STITCH. 

Pass the right needle through a stitch, put the thread twice around the needle, 
now knit the stitch, and you will bring two new stitches on your right needle, in¬ 
stead of one. 


NO. 9.-TO INCREASE BY KNITTING TWO STITCHES IN ONE. 

Knit the front loop; do not remove the left-hand stitch from the needle; now 
knit the back loop; then slip the stitch off left-hand needle. 

NO. IO.-TO KNIT AT THE BACK. 

Put the needle through the back loop of stitch on left-hand needle; knit as 
usual. 


NO. II.—TO PICK UP OR RAISE A STITCH. 


Pick up the thread that lies between two stitches and knit a stitch in it. 



Take up two stitches on your right-hand needle 
and knit them together, as if they were one, or you 
may decrease by slipping one stitch, knitting the 
second stitch as usual, and then slipping the first 
stitch (unknitted) over the second, by means of the 
point of the left-hand needle. To decrease two at a 
time, slip one, knit two stitches together, then slip 
the unknitted stitch over the one just knitted. 


NO. 13.-DECREASE FROM THE BACK. 

Put the right hand needle through the back of two stitches, instead of the 
front, and knit them like one stitch. This latter method makes the stitches lie 
flatter than when decreased from the front. Decreasing can be made by purling 
two stitches together from the back. 


NO. 14.-DECREASE IN PURL KNITTING. 

You may either take two stitches at once on your right-hand needle, and purl 
them as one stitch, or purl the first stitch; put it back on left-hand needle, then 
draw over it the next stitch on left needle. Drop this latter, and restore the 
first stitch to the right needle. 

NO 15.-TO SLIP A STITCH OR PASS IT. 

Pass it from one needle to the other, without knitting it. This should always 
be done to the first stitch of the row, in knitting with two needles, as otherwise the 
work will not be so even. Always knit the last stitch of the row, however. The 
end or edge stitches will thus be alternately slipped and knitted. 

NO. 16.-A TURNED ROW. 

A purled row, or a row at the back of plain (or straight) knitting. 

NO. 17.-TO CAST OFF. 

Knit two stitches, pass the first stitch over the second, knit a third stitch, and 
pass the second over it. Continue in this way till all the stitches are worked off. 

NO. l8.-ROUND KNITTING. 

Four or five needles are used for this work. If you use four, cast on a third 
of the desired number of stitches on each of three needles, then with the fourth 


KNITTING AND CROCHET. 


1 7 


join round by knitting into the first stitch that was cast on, and continue knitting 
round and round. If you use five needles, cast on a fourth of the required stitches 
on each of the four needles, and join with the fifth. The Germans use five needles 
for knitting stockings. 

NO. 19.-A ROUND. 

Means each time you have knitted once around or about the work, i. c., 
knitted all the stitches once in round knitting. 

. no. 20.—A ROW. 

When in straight knitting (with two needles) you have knitted all the stitches 
from one needle onto the other, it is called a row. 

NO. 2 1 .-EDGE STITCH. 

The stitches that begin and end the work in straight knitting (/, e., knitting 
with two needles) are called the edge stitches. In directions for knitting patterns 
ihey are usually not mentioned, but they are always added as extra stitches, as 
they keep the knitting straight and form a strong edge. 

NO. 22.-FASTEN ON. 

When beginning to knit,/, e., cast on, tie a loop of thread on one of the needles. 

NO. 23.-FASTEN TWO THREADS TOGETHER. 

Lay the two threads together contrariwise, and knit a few stitches with both, 
or fasten with a weaver’s knot, and knit the ends in, one running each way. 

NO. 24.-TO JOIN TOGETHER OR BIND. 

Knit to the middle of your stitches (unless the directions says otherwise), now 
double or lay your two needles together. Take an extra needle, put it through 
the first stitch on the needle toward you, and then through the first stitch of the 
back needle; knit these two together, like one stitch. Continue to knit the stitches 
together thus till all are used up. 

NO. 25.-STITCHES ACCIDENTALLY DROPPED. 

Either undo your knitting till you reach the line to which the stitch has drop¬ 
ped, or else put a crochet needle through the dropped stitch, and carefully chain- 
stitch the stitch up, through all the lines it has dropped through, till you reach the 
last row. 

NO. 26.-MARKS. 

An asterisk (*) is often used in knitting patterns to save repetitions. When it 
is put twice, it means that the directions for knitting between the two asterisks are 
to be repeated from where the first asterisk is put to where the last is. Letters are 
sometimes used instead of asterisks. 


i8 


knitting and crochet. 




KNITTING PATTERNS.- • 


NO. 27.—peacock’s-tail pattern 


This pattern is very pretty for the bottom of a 
baby’s shirt, in fine wool, or for the border of a pet¬ 
ticoat, in heavy wool, etc., etc. 

Cast on a number of stitches divisible by nine, 
as it takes nine stitches for each pattern. Cast on 
also four additional stitches, two for each edge; the 
edge, which is in plain knitting, is not mentioned 
after the first row. 

First row.—Two plain for edge, 2 plain, *, make 
1, 1 plain; repeat this four times from *; make 1, 2 
plain; repeat from beginning, ending with 2 plain 
for edge. 

Second row.—Two purl, 11 plain, 2 purl; repeat. 

Third row.—Take 2 together, 11 plain, take 2 
together; repeat. 

Fourth row.—Purl 2 together, purl 9, purl 2 to¬ 
gether; repeat. 

Fifth row.—Take 2 together, 7 plain, take 2 to¬ 
gether. 

Begin from the first row. 



No. 27 — Peacock’s-tail pattern. 


NO. 28.- VANDYKE PATTERN. 



Cast on nine stitches for each pattern. 

First row.—Knit 3, *, make 1, knit 2 together 
at the back, knit 4; repeat from *. 

Second row.—Purl. 

Third row.—Knit 1, knit 2 together, make x, 
knit 1, make 1, knit 2 together at the back; re¬ 
peat. 

Fourth row.—Purl. 

Fifth row.—Knit 2 together, *, make 1, knit 
3, make 1, slip 1, knit 2 together, pass the slip- 
No. 28 —Vandyke pattern. stitch over; repeat from *• 

Sixth row.—Purl; repeat from first row. 























KNITTING AND CROCHET. 


l 9 


NO. 29. -HERRING-BONE STRIPE. 

This is a pretty and simple stitch. 

Cast on any number of stitches divisible by three. 

First row.—Knit 1, knit 2 together, make 1; repeat. End the row with knit 2. 
Second row.—Purl 1, purl 2 together, make 1; repeat. End the row with 
purl 2. 

These two rows are repeated throughout. 


NO. 30. -DESIGN FOR STOCKINGS, SOCKS, ETC. 


Very pretty if knit in silk or Saxony wool. 
This pattern is knitted in the round. 

Cast on any number of stitches divisible 
by ten. 

First round.—Purl 3, make 1, slip 1, knit 
1, pass the slip-stitch over, knit 5. 

Second round.—Purl 3, knit 2, make 1, 
slip 1, knit 1, pass the slip-stitch over, knit 4. 
Third round.—Purl 3, knit 2, make 1, slip 
knit 1, pass the slip-stitch over, knit 3. 

Fourth round.—Purl 3. knit 3, make 1, slip 
knit 1, pass the slip-stitch over, knit 2. 


1, 



Fifth round.—Purl 3, knit 4, make I, slip No. 30 -Design for socks, or stockings, etc 


1, knit 1, pass the slip-stitch over, knit 1 

Sixth round.—Purl 5, knit 5, make 1, slip 
over; repeat from the first round. 


knit 1, pass the slip-stitch 


NO. 31. -STRIPE WITH TWISTED BARS. 

Cast on any number of stitches divisible by six. 
First row.—Knit 1, cotton forward, knit 1, knit 3 
together, knit 1, make 1; repeat from the beginning of 
the row. 

For the second and every alternate row the single 
stitch between the two made stitches is purled; the rest 
of the row is knitted. These two rows are repeated for 
the required length. 

No. 31 —Stripe with twisted bars. 

NO. 32.- CANE-WORK PATTERN. 

This is a pretty open stitch, suitable for shawls, fascinators, etc., in split 
zephyr or other fine wool. 

Cast on any number of stitches divisible by four. 

First row.—Make 1, knit 1, make 1, knit 3; 
repeat. 

Second row.—Purl. 

Third row.—Knit 3, make 1, slip 1, knit 2 
together, pass the slip-stitch over the two knitted 
together, make 1; repeat. 

Fourth row.—Purl. 

Fifth row.—Make 1, slip 1, knit 2 together, 
pass the slip-stitch over, make 1, knit 3; repeat. 

Sixth row.—Purl. 



























20 


KNITTING AND CROCHET. 


Seventh row.—Like third row. 

Eight row.—Purl. 

Ninth row.—Make i, slip i, knit 2 together, pass the slip-stitch over, make 1, 
knit 3; repeat. 

Tenth row.—Purl; repeat from the third row. 

NO. 33. -LOOPED KNITTING. 

Materials needed, Berlin or Germantown wool, two woolen knitting needles 

and one flat wooden mesh. 

Cast on'a sufficient number of stitches, and 
knit the first row plain. 

Second row.—Slip the first stitch; insert the 
needle into the next stitch, and throw the cotton 
forward as if you were going to knit the stitch; 
place the mesh behind the needle in the right 
hand, and turn the wool which is on this needle 
upward, bring it back again on the needle so that 
it is wound once round the mesh, and twice round 
the needle. Then only the double stitch through 
the second stitch, knit it, and insert the needle 
into the next stitch, and repeat what has been ex¬ 
plained. Knit the last stitch without a loop. 

Third row.—Before drawing out the mesh, turn the work and knit one plain 
row. Every double stitch is knitted as one stitch so as to attain the same number 
of stitches as in the first row 

Fourth row.—Like the second row; repeat these rows as often as required. 

NO. 34.- LEAF AND TRELLIS PATTERN. 

In knitting curtains or a shawl, it is best to cast on enough stitches to work 
six stitches plain at the beginning and end of each row. This applies both to the 
purl and knit rows; and to make the square complete six rows of knit and purl 
alternately must be worked before beginning and at the end of the work. 

Twenty stitches are needed for each pattern. 

As the pattern waves a good deal you will not be able to work to the end of 
the pattern described in the last repeat of a row. 

First Row.—Purl. 

Second row.—Knit 6, *, make 1 and knit 2 together three times, make 1, knit 2,. 
knit 2 together, knit 10; repeat from * (there will be only four out of ten stitches 
to knit before the border stitches of this row in the last repeat). 

Third row.—Purl. 

Fourth row.—Knit 2,*, knit 2 together, knit 2, make i,knit 1, make 1 and knit 
2 together five times, knit 5; repeat from *. 

Fifth row.—Purl. 

Sixth row.—Knit 1, *, knit 2 together, knit 2, make 1, knit 3, make 1 and knit. 
2 together three times, make 1, knit 2, knit 2 together, knit 3; repeat from *. 

Seventh row.—Purl. 

Eighth row.—Knit 2 together, knit 2, make 1, knit 5, make 1 and knit 2 to¬ 
gether three times, make 1, knit 2, knit 2 together, knit 1; repeat from beginning, 
of row. 

Ninth row.—Purl. 




KNITTING AND CROCHET. 


21 


Tenth row. Knit 3, *, make 1, knit 7, make 1 and knit 2 together three times, 
make 1, knit 2, slip 1, knit 2 together, pass the slip-stitch over the last stitch, 
knit 2; repeat from *. (In the last repeat there will be but one stitch to pass the 
slip-stitch over, before the edge stitches, which must be kept straight.) 

Eleventh row.—Purl. 

Twelfth row.—Knit 2 together, knits, *, knit 2 together and make 1 five times, 
knit 1, make 1, knit 2, knit 2 together, knit 5; repeat from *. 

Thirteenth row.—Purl. 



Fourteenth row—Knit 5, *, knit 2 together, knit 2, make 1 and knit 2 together 
three times, make 1, knit 3, make 1, knit 2, knit 2 together, knit 3; repeat from * 

Fifteenth row.—Purl. 

Sixteenth row—Knit 4, *, knit 2 together, knit 2, make 1 and knit 2 to¬ 
gether three times, make 1, knit 5, make 1, knit 2, knit 2 together, knit 1; repeat 
from *. 

Seventeenth row.—Purl. 

Eighteenth row.—Knit 3, knit 2 together, knit 2, *, make 1 and knit 2 together 
three times, make 1, knit 7, make 1, knit 2, slip 1, knit 2 together, pass the slip- 
stitch over the last, knit 2; repeat from *. 

Repeat from the third row for the required length. 

no. 35-—fancy knitting. 

This is a pretty pattern for close knitting with coarse wool or cotton. 

Cast on twenty stitches for each pattern, and add one at each end for the edge 
stitches, to which reference is not again made in the directions. 

































































22 


KNITTING AND CROCHET. 


First row.—Purl 5, *, knit 2 together, knit 3, over, knit 1, over, knit 3, slip 1, 
knit 1, pass slip-stitch over, purl 9; repeat from *; at end of row purl 4 instead of 9. 
Second row.—Knit 4,*, purl u, knit 9; repeat from *; knit 5 instead of 9 at 

the end. 

Third row.—Purl 4, *, knit 2 together, knit 3, over, knit 3, over, knit 3, slip 1, 
knit 1, pass slip-stitch over, purl 7; repeat from *; purl 3 instead of 7 at the end. 
Fourth row.—Knit 3, *, purl 13, knit 7; repeat from *; knit 4 instead of 7 at 

end. 

Fifth row.—Purl 3, *, knit 2 together, knit 3, over, knit 5, over, knit 3, slip 1, 
knit 1, pass slip-stitch over, purl 5; repeat from *; purl 2 instead of 5 at the end. 

Sixth row.—Knit 2, *, purl 15, knit 5; repeat from *; knit 3 instead of 5 at end. 
Seventh row.—Purl 2, *, knit 2 together, knit 3, over, knit 7, over, knit 3, slip 
1, knit 1, pass slip-stitch over, purl 3; repeat from *; purl x instead of 3 at the end. 
Eighth row.—Knit 1, *, purl 17, knit 3; repeat from ' ! '; knit 2 instead of 3 at 

the end. 

Ninth row.—Purl 1, * knit 2 together, knit 3, over, knit 9, over, knit 3, slip 1, 
knit 1, pass slip-stitch over, purl 1; repeat from *; end with slip 1, knit 1, pass 

slip-stitch over. 

Tenth row.— Purl 19, *, knit one; repeat from *; commence again at the first 
row. 

NO. 36.-TRIANGULAR KILTED PATTERN. 

Cast on any number of stitches divis¬ 
ible by nine. 

First row.—Purl 8, knit 1; repeat. 

Second row—Purl 2, knit 7; repeat. 

Third row.— Purl 6, knit 33 repeat. 

Fourth row.— Purl 4, knit 5; repeat. 

Fifth row.— Purl 4, knit 5; repeat. 

Sixth row.—Purl 6, knit 3; repeat. 

Seventh row.—Purl 2, knit 7; repeat. 

Eighth row.—Like first row. 

Ninth row.—Like first row. 

Repeat from second row. 

For the crochet edge: Work one 
double into the first stitch—that is, knitted 
throughout—pass over three stitches, three 
trebles, three double trebles, and three trebles into the next stitch, pass over three 

stitches and repeat. 

NO. 37.-DOUBLE KNITTING PATTERN. 

This stitch, although knitted with only two needles, and at the same time, 
makes two separate pieces of knitting, joined only by the edge stitches. It is, 
of course, very warm, and makes very nice baby s afghans, comforters, etc., if knit¬ 
ted with heavy wool, especially. 

Cast on an even number of stitches, and add three or more edge stitches at 
each edge, which always knit plain. 

First row.—Knit 1, putting the wool twice around the needle; bring the wool 
to the front between the needles, slip a stitch, and put the wool back; repeat. 



No. 36 —Triangular kilted. 













































KNITTING AND CROCHET. 


2 3 


Second row.—Knit the slip-stitch, passing the wool twice over the needle, 
and slip the knitted stitch, bringing the wool to the front be¬ 
fore slipping, passing back afterward. 

Repeat these two rows to the end of the work. 

Note.— The wool is put twice around the needle only to 
make the work looser—the extra stitch simply slipping off the 
needle in knitting the next row. 

NO. 37 -a. -BRIOCHE, OR PATENT KNITTING. 

Cast on a number of stitches divisible by three. 

First (and every) row.—Cotton forward, slip i, knit 2 to- 

No. 37-a. 

gether. 



NO. 38. -KNOTTED STITCH. 

This stitch looks best in heavy wool. 

Cast on eleven stitches. 

First row—All plain, throwing the wool twice over the needle before each 
stitch. 

Second row.-—Each stitch now has three threads: knit the first thread plain, 
the second purl, the third plain; cast off the second over the third, and the first 
over the second; this leaves but one stitch in place of three. 

Repeat from first row. 



No. 38 —Knotted stitch. 



No. 39 —Coral pattern. 


NO. 39. -CORAL PATTERN. 

Cast on any number of stitches divisible by twenty-one. 

First row—Knit 2 together, knit 3, knit 2 together, knit 1, make 1, knit 1, 
make 1, knit 1, knit 2 together, knit 3, knit 2 together, knit 1, make 1, knit 1, make 
1, knit 2. 

Second row.—Purl. 

Third row.—Knit 2 together, knit 1, knit 2 together, knit 1, make 1, knit 3, 























24 


KNITTING AND CROCHET. 


make i, knit i, knit 2 together, knit 1, knit 2 together, knit 1, make 1, knit 3, make 
1, knit 2. 

Fourth row.—Purl. 

Fifth row.—Slip 1, knit 2 together, pass the slip-stitch over, knit 1, make 1, 
knit 5, make 1, knit 1, slip 1, knit 2 together, pass the slip-stitch over, knit 1, 
make 1, knit 5, make 1, knit 2. 

Sixth row.—Purl. 

Seventh row.—Knit 2, make 1, knit 1, make 1, knit 1, knit 2 togethei, knit 

3, knit 2 together, knit 1, make 1, knit 1, make x, knit 1, knit 2 together, knit 3, 

knit 2 together. 

Eighth row.—Purl. 

Ninth row.—Knit 2, make 1, knit 3, make 1, knit 1, knit 2 together, knit 1, 
knit 2 together, knit 1, make 1, knit 3, make 1, knit 1, knit 2 together, knit 1, knit 2 
together. 

Tenth row.—Purl. 

Eleventh row.—Knit 2, make 1, knit 5> make 1, knit 1, slip 1, knit 2 together, 

pass the slip-stitch over, knit 1, make 1, knit 5, make 1, knit 1, slip 1, knit 2 

together, pass the slip-stitch over; repeat from the first row. 

NO. 40.-GOTHIC PATTERN. 

This stitch is pretty for counterpanes, also for very fine knitting. 

Cast on any number of stitches that divide by twelve, adding a stitch at each 
end for an edge stitch. The edge stitches are knit plain, and are not again men¬ 
tioned in the instructions. 

First row.—Purl 1, slip 1, knit 1, pass slip-stitch over, knit 3, yarn forward, 
knit 1, yarn forward, knit 3, knit 2 together; repeat. 

Notf. —Before knitting a stitch made by the yarn forward in the previous row, 
turn this stitch on the needle. This is done by slipping it off the left needle, 
reversing it, and slipping it back on the left with the right needle, and is necessary 
to make the pattern open, unless you knit very loosely, in which case it will not be 
necessary. 

Second row.—Purl xi, knit 1; repeat. 

Third row to eighth row.—Like the first and second rows. 

Ninth row.—Purl 1, yarn forward, knit 3, knit 2 together, purl 1, slip 1, knit 1, 
pass slip-stitch over, knit 3, yarn over as for purling; repeat. 

Tenth row.—Purl 5, knit 1; repeat. 

Eleventh row.—Purl 2, yarn forward, knit 2, slip 1, knit 1, pass slip-stitch 
over, purl 1, knit 2 together, knit 2, yarn over as for purling, purl 1; repeat. 

Twelfth row.—Knit 1, purl 4, knit 1, purl 4, knit 2; repeat. 

Thirteenth row.—Purl 3, yarn forward, knit 1, slip 1, knit 1, pass slip-stitch 
over, purl 1, knit 2 together, knit 1, yarn over as for purling, purl 2; repeat. 

Fourteenth row.—Knit 2, purl 3, knit 1, purl 3, knit 3; repeat. 

Fifteenth row.—Purl 4, yarn forward, slip 1, knit 1, pass slip-stitch over, purl 
1, knit 2 together, yarn over as for purling, purl 3; repeat. 

Sixteenth row.—Knit 3, purl 2, knit 1, purl 2, knit 4; repeat. 

Seventeenth row.—Knit 1, yarn forward, knit 3, knit 2 together, purl 1, slip 1, 
knit 1, pass slip-stitch over, knit 3, yarn forward; repeat. 

Eighteenth row.—Purl 5, knit 1, purl 6; repeat. 

Nineteenth to twenty-fourth rows.—As seventeenth and eighteenth rows. 


KNITTING AND CROCHET. 


2 5 


Twenty-fifth row.—Purl i, knit 2 together, knit 3, yarn over as for purling, 
purl 1, yarn forward, knit 3, slip 1, knit 1, pass slip-stitch over; repeat. 

Twenty-sixth row.—Purl 5, knit 1; repeat. 

Twenty-seventh row.—Purl 1, knit 2 together, knit 2, yarn over as for purling, 
P ur l 3> yarn forward, knit 2, slip 1, knit 1, pass slip-stitch over; repeat. 

Twenty-eighth row.—Purl 4, knit 3, purl 4, knit 1; repeat. 

Twenty-ninth row.—Purl 1, knit 2 together, knit 1, yarn over as for purling, 
purl 5> yarn forward, knit 1, slip 1, knit 1, pass slip-stitch over; repeat. 

Thirtieth row.—Purl 3, knit 5, purl 3, knit 1; repeat. 

Thirty-first row.—Purl 1, knit 2 together, yarn over as for purling, purl 7, yarn 
forward, slip 1, knit 1, pass slip-stitch over; repeat. 

Thirty-second row.—Purl 2, knit 7, purl 2, knit 1; repeat. 

Commence from first row. 

NO. 41.- DIAMOND WITH OPEN TRELLIS. 

Cast on any number of stitches divisible by fourteen. 

First row.—Knit 1, make 1, knit 2 together at the back, make 1, knit 2 together 
at the back, knit 5, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 2 together, make 1; repeat. 

Second row.—Purl. 

Third row.—Knit 2, make 1, knit 2 together at the back, make 1, knit 2 
together at the back, knit 3, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 
1; repeat. 

Fourth row.—Purl. 

Fifth row.—Knit 3, make 1, knit 
2 together at the back, make 1, knit 
2 together at the back, knit 1, knit 2 to¬ 
gether, make 1, knit 2 together, make 1, 
knit 2; repeat. 

Sixth row.—Purl. 

Seventh row.—Knit 4, make 1, knit 
2 together at the back, make 1, knit 3 
together, make 1, knit 2 together, make 
1, knit 3; repeat. 

Eight row.—Purl. 

Ninth row.—Knit 3, knit 2 together, 
make 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 1, 
make 1, knit 2 together at the back, 
make 1, knit 2 together at the back, knit 
2; repeat. 

Tenth row.—Purl. 

Eleventh row.—Knit 2, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 
3, make 1, knit 2 together at the back, make 1, knit 2 together at the back, knit 1; 
repeat. 

Twelfth row.—Purl. 

Thirteenth row.—Knit 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 2 together, make 1, 
knit 5, make 1, knit 2 together at the back, make 1, knit 2 together at the back; 
repeat. 

Fourteenth row.—Purl. 

Fifteenth row.—Knit 2 together, *, make 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 7, 
make 1, knit 2 together at the back, make 1, knit 3 together; repeat from *. At 



No, 41 —Diamond with open trellis. 






















26 


KNITTING AND CROCHET. 


the end of the last pattern in this row, there will be only one stitch to knit in¬ 
stead of three together 
Sixteenth row.—Purl. 

Then repeat from the beginning. 



NO. 42.- WAVE PATTERN. 

Suitable as a bordering for shawls, counterpanes, petticoats, etc. 

Cast on any number of stitches divisible by 
twelve, and two extra stitches for the end 

First row.—Purl 2, make 1, knit 3, knit 2 to¬ 
gether at the back, knit 2 together, knit 3, make 1; 
repeat from the beginning of the row; finish the row 
with purl 2. 

In the second and each alternate row, knit the 
purled and purl the knitted and made stitches of the 
previous row. 

Third row.—Purl 2, knit 2, make 1, knit 1, knit 
2 together at the back, knit 2 together, knit 2, make 
1, knit 1; repeat from the beginning of the row; fin¬ 
ish with purl 2. 


No. 42 —Wave pattern. 


Fourth row.—Like second row. 

Fifth row.—Purl 2, knit 2, make 1, knit 1, knit 2 together at the back, knit 2 
together, knit 1, make 1, knit 2; repeat from the beginning of the row; finish with 
purl 2. 


Sixth row.—Like second row. 

Seventh row.—Purl 2, knit 3, make 1, knit 2 together at the back, knit 2 
together, make 1, knit 3; repeat from the beginning of the row; finish with 
purl 2. 

Eighth row.—Like second row; repeat from the first row. 

For the crochet edge: Work one double into the first stitch in the depth 
of scallop, four chain, one double into the first, one double into next stitch, *, four 
chain, one double into the first, pass over one stitch, one double into the next; 
repeat from * four times more, then repeat from the beginning of the row. 

NO. 43.- CABLE PATTERN. 




This stitch is close, and is very handsome for afghans, baby’s gaiter drawers 
(one or two stripes of it down the leg), petticoats, etc. 

Cast on eighteen stitches for a stripe, thus for six plain stitches on each side of 
the cable, for two patterns thirty stitches will be required, 
and so on. 

First row.—Purl 6, knit 6, and purl 6. 

Second row.—Knit 6, purl 6, knit 6. 

Third row.—Like first row. 

Fourth row.—Like second row. 

Fifth row.—Like third row. • 

Sixth row.—Knit 6, take a third needle and purl 3; 
with the first right-hand needle purl the next three 
stitches, and knit 6. 

Seventh row.—Purl 6, knit the three stitches on the 
third or additional needle, knit the three stitches on the 
left-hand needle, purl 6. 



No. 43— Cable twist. 






















KNITTING AND CROCHET. 


2 7 


Eighth row.—Like second row; repeat from first row. 

NO. 44.- STRIPE WITH HEMMED TOP FOR STOCKING. 

Cast on three needles any number of stitches divisi¬ 
ble by eight. 

First to sixth rounds.—Knit. 

Seventh round.—Make 1, knit 2 together through¬ 
out. 

Eighth to thirteenth rounds.—Knit. 

When the work is finished the first six rounds are 
turned down and hemmed, leaving the seventh round to 
form the points at the top. 

Fourteenth and fifteenth rounds.—Purl. 

Now commence the pattern. 

First round.— Knit 1, make 1, knit 2, slip 1, knit 2 
together, passkhe slip-stitch over the two knitted to¬ 



No. 44 —Stripe with hem top. 


gether, knit 2, make 1; repeat from the beginning of the round. 

Second round.—Knit. These two rounds are repeated alternately. 


































KNITTING AND CROCHET. 


:o 


KNITTING—ARTICLES. 


NO. 45.- LADIES KNITTED SILK VEST. 

The vest is made in ribs throughout. It, therefore, fits the form just as a Jer¬ 
sey would, and it is this that makes it warm without being cumbersome. The 
formula is for a large-sized vest, that is, one ranging from thirty-eight to forty 
inches bust measure. Vests or underwear of silk are exceedingly warm, and do 
not irritate the skin. 

The best washing color is pink or flesh-tinted silk. For this vest thirteen 

spools of pure thread silk are requir¬ 
ed, two and one-half yards of pink 
satin ribbon about one inch in width, 
also the same number of yards of very 
narrow pink satin ribbon to run in the 
neck. Two steel needles, No. 17, 
twelve inches in length, one fine steel 
crochet hook and one small skein of 
pink filo-floss for sewing the seams. 
The knitting silk is too hard a twist to 
sew with, and, if used, will make an 
uncomfortable seam to come next the 
skin. 

The directions for making this 
vest are very simple. It is made in 
two pieces, front and back, which are 
knit perfectly straight up and down 
upon two needles, until the neck is 
reached, where shaping begins, as di¬ 
rections will show. When the front 
and back are completed they are join¬ 
ed by a seam under each arm. The 
narrow strips which pass over the 
shoulder and form the sleeve are 
joined by crocheting. The hip or 
bottom part of vest is widened by 
gussets, which are knit separately, 
one being placed in each side seam. 
The neck, sleeves and bottom of vest are finished with crochet edges. 

Formula .—Cast on with two needles loosely two hundred stitches. This is the 
lower edge of vest. In second row across arrange in ribs of threes and twos. Every 












KNITTING AND CROCHET. 


29 


sixth row is purled all the way across and produces the little ridges on the fabric, 
as shown in the illustration. Continue thus with pattern, until you have a straight 
piece, in length about twenty-four inches; here arrange the work so that in begin¬ 
ning the next row the wrong side of fabric should be next you. Now knit off 
in the usual way for fifty stitches, using an extra knitting needle. Leave the re¬ 
maining one hundred and fifty stitches on another needle. They will be apt to 
slip off the needle, and until ready to work them off of needle secure them by plac¬ 
ing a small cork on each end of the needle. For the present this needle of one 
hundred and fifty stitches is left, and you knit upon the fifty stitches already men¬ 
tioned, continuing the pattern of fabric just the same; by so doing you are form¬ 



ing the shape of neck and the short sleeve of vest. Each time the edge is reached 
which comes next the neck (not the outer sleeve edge) narrow once by knitting two 
stitches together. Repeat until you have the stitches reduced to twenty. Upon 
these still knit the pattern for a length of six inches, then cast off. This makes a 
long strip which is to form the sleeve or shoulder-band. This vest is shaped at 
top as near like a French yoke as it is possible to knit one. Next “cast off” 
loosely one hundred stitches from the extra needle of one hundred and fifty 
stitches. Upon these remaining fifty stitches knit a strip to correspond to the strip 
already described. Remember to narrow only on the side next the neck. This 
completes the knitting of one-half of the vest, and in shape should look like the 
accompanying diagram. For the other half of vest knit exactly as fcr the half 





















3° 


KNITTING AND CROCHET. 


already described. Now with fine crochet hook fill in the space between the two 
long strips, or raise with open work the space which is represented below the 
dotted lines in the diagram. Do likewise with the other half of vest. To make 
this open work with which this space is filled, begin at right-hand corner, or place 
marked A in diagram. Secure silk firmly. Raise one treble; make a chain of five; 
then raise one treble; repeat so across to B. In making the trebles arrange so as 
to bring one treble each side of every rib of three stitches. Break the silk at the end 
of every row. Upon the row already made, work another row same as first, except 
that each treble is worked midway of each chain of five of preceding row. So 
alternate for nine rows; but in beginning and ending each row you increase a 
chain of five and one treble. This will be readily seen in working. If you do not 
increase, the space will not be entirely filled. Now join the strip over the shoulder 
in this way: Make a long chain from front strip to back strip and secure. Then 
upon this work a chain of five and one treble clear across. Now to this add an¬ 
other row same as first, except bring each treble midway of chain of five of previous 
row. So alternate for five rows; and you will have a pattern the same as the space 
is filled in with for the front and back described; also have formed the sleeve or 
band. The other strips are joined just the same. Now work around the edge 
next neck one row of trebles, setting them close together. To this row add an¬ 
other, which work as follows, viz.: Make one treble into each of two stitches or 
trebles of preceding row; five chain; pass over five trebles; repeat. 

To this row add another by working thus: one treble into each of the two 
trebles of last row; one chain; four trebles; each separated by one chain into the 
third of five chain; one chain; repeat. Next add another row. One treble into 
each of the two trebles of last row; one chain; four trebles; each separated by one 
chain into the center; one chain between the trebles of last row; one chain; repeat. 
Repeat this last row once more. Now to this add a row of scallops, making about 
fifteen trebles into one stitch for each scallop. Fasten down by one single crochet 
to treble of previous row. So work all around the neck. Add similar row of 
scallops to outer edge of strip-band or sleeve. This completes the working of the 
band or sleeves. Run ribbons in through holes and tie in pretty bows in front. 
Next sew up the seams under arms, leaving a space on each seam at bottom for 
insertion of gusset, say about five inches. 

Gussets .—Cast on loosely fifty stitches on two needles; knit in ribs of threes and 
twos, as you have for the other part of vest. Make this pattern for about one inch. 
Then narrow once at the beginning of every row, that is, each time you turn the 
work. This narrows the work off to a point, or one stitch. When gusset is finished, 
make one more for other side. Sew into seam at bottom or hip-part of vest. This 
gives a good splay for a person of large size; for one of smaller proportions these 
gussets are unnecessary. Now add to the bottom of vest open-work and scallops 
as made above. This completes the work. 


no. 46.— ladies’ woolen under-vest. 

Materials needed—two needles, No. 9; merino wool. 

For the back cast on seventy-eight stitches, now purl 3, knit 3 all across, con¬ 
tinue to knit in this way, i. e., in ribs, for one hundred and forty rows. In order to 
make the ribs you must, in the second and subsequent rows, purl the knit and knit 
the purl stitches of previous row. 

One hundred and forty-first row.—Knit 18 stitches, now turn (these eighteen 
stitches form the shoulder strap), purl the 18, knit them, turn, and purl them. You 


KNITTING AND CROCHET. 


3i 


ought now to be beginning the row again, and this time you purl, and now purl 
the seventeenth and eighteenth stitches together, turn and knit back, turn and purl 
back, knit a row, taking the sixteenth and seventeenth together, turn and purl 
back, knit a row, taking the fifteenth and sixteenth together, turn, and knit the 
row. Go on in this way, remembering always to decrease at the left side, at the 
end of every row, until you have done five ribs altogether. \ ou ought to have 
twelve stitches on now. Then cast off. These ribs ought to be crossways instead 
of lengthways. 

Now begin to cast off the remaining stitches, until you come to the last 
eighteen; work this shoulder the same as the last. 

For the front part of the vest you cast on seventy-eight stitches and knit one 
hundred and twenty-five rows. Beg'n the right-hand shoulder by purling, and 
make ribs as before, only this time you do not begin to decrease at the left until 
you have done seven ribs; reduce to twelve stitches, make eleven ribs, and cast off. 

Cast off the remaining stitches, and proceed as before with the last eighteen 
for the fourth shoulder piece. 

Now sew up these two sides until you get to within twenty-four rows from the 
top of the front piece, which is the shortest. You must now join the rest with a 
gusset, which you form by picking up one stitch, knit it and turn; in every row you 
must now take up one stitch, and rib them the same as the other part of the vest in 
three and three. Thus, the first row you have one stitch, the next row two, the 
next row three, and so on. When twenty-four rows are done, cast off; sew up the 
shoulders, and crochet a narrow border of small even holes, into which run a piece 
of crochet wool or white ribbon. 

It is a good plan to pick up the stitches all along the shoulder-strap, and knit 
a few rows, according to the depth of sleeve desired. 

no. 47.— baby’s shirt. 

Materials: White Angola wool. 

Cast on eighty-one stitches. 

First row.—Knit. 

Second row.—Slip 1, yarn forward, knit 3, slip 1, knit 2 together, pass the 
slip-stitch over the knitted one, *, knit 3* rnake 1, knit 1, make 1, knit 3> slip 1, 
knit 2 together, pass the slip-stitch over, repeat from *. 

Third row.—Purl. 

Repeat second and third rows until you have thirteen rows, shell pattern. 
The shirt is now continued in ribbed knitting, thus: 

Knit 3, purl 2, all across, narrowing once in the middle of the needle, which 

leaves eighty stitches. 

Knit forty-nine rows: Knit 3, purl 2, knit 3, purl 2. 

Fiftieth row.—Purl. 

Fifty-first row.—Knit. 

Fifty-second row.—Purl. 

Fifty-third row.—Knit. 

Fifty-fourth row.—Knit 2 together, make 1, knit 2 together, make 1, all across. 
This makes a row of holes in which to run a ribbon. 

Fifty-fifth row.—Knit. 

Fifty-sixth row.—Purl, bind off on wrong side. 

For sleeve, cast on fifty-one stitches, knit four rows of shells, like bottom of 


3 2 


KNITTING AND CROCHET. 


shirt, bind off fourteen stitches at each end of the needle, and knit the rest in ribs, 
etc., like top of shirt. Bind off and sew it to the shirt; run a narrow ribbon through 
holes. 

N.B.—This shirt is made flat, in one piece, instead of in two, as is sometimes 
the case, and the wide part of the sleeve is sewed together, and the sleeve is then 
sewed on the top of the body as it were, the narrow piece fitting in neck like a 
gusset. 

no. 48. —infant’s petticoat. 

Materials required: Eight ounces white and two ounces pink Berlin wool, four 
needles, No. 10, Walker’s gauge. 

Commence with the waist. Cast on sixty stitches, 
knit six rows, knit twenty stitches on these with the 
third needle, knit ten rows, cast off (this is for the first 
half of front); cast off twenty stitches of the forty left 
on the first needle (that is for the shoulder). Knit on 
the remaining twenty stitches for twenty rounds for 
the back of waist, cast on a third needle twenty stitches 
for the other half of front, and knit ten rounds, then 
on the same needle cast on twenty more for the other 
shoulder, knit on the same needle with the twenty for 
the back, you will now have sixty stitches on the 
needle, on these knit six rounds and cast off. Sew up 
under the arms with a needle and wool. Pick up the 
stitches round the armhole with three needles, and knit with a fourth six plain 
rows. Pick up the stitches at the waist. For the band, make 1, knit 2 together, 
throughout; this forms the holes at the waist, through which to run the ribbon to 
tie around the waist. 

Next row knit plain. 

For the skirt: 

First row.—Kn : t 1 and purl 1 in the first and last 
stitches, knit the rest plain. 

Second row.—Knit. 

Third row.—Purl. 

Fourth row.—Purl 1, knit 1 in the first and last 
stitches, purl the rest. 

Fifth row.—Knit 1, purl 1. 

Sixth row.—Knit 1, slip 1. 

Seventh row.—Purl. 

Eighth row.—Knit. 

Ninth row.—Knit; repeat from the first row five times more and cast off. 

The lower half of sk'.rt is worked separately, in cable pattern, directions for 
working which will be found in No. 43. 

Cast on fifty-four stitches; this will allow for six plain stitches at each edge, 
and twelve stitches between each of three patterns. This is sewed to the skirt with 
a needle and wool; the pink stripes are worked in crochet on the sixth row of 
plain stripes between the cable patterns. 

At the bottom of petticoat and round the sleeves work one double into a stitch 
of knitting, pass over one stitch, five trebles into the next, pass over one stitch and 
repeat from the beginning of the row. 



Detail of no. 48. 



No. 48.- -Infant’s petticoat. 







KNITTING AND CROCHET. 


33 


For the crochet edging round the neck: 

First row Work with white wool one double into a stitch of knitting, one chain, 
pass over one stitch and repeat. 

Second row.—One double under one chain, three chain; repeat. A ribbon is 
run through the first row and is tied in front. 



NO. 49.- CHILD S PETTICOAT. 

The number of stitches to be used for this child’s petticoat will, of course, 
vary according to the yarn and needles used The model is knit in red and white 

double Shetland lamb’s wool; itwill 
take two ounces of red, and three of 
white wool. 

Cast on two hundred and six¬ 
teen stitches with the red wool 
First row.—Purl. 

Second row.—Knit plain. 

Third row.—Purl. 

Fourth row.—Knit plain. 

Fifth row.—Slip 1, knit 2 to¬ 
gether, knit 3, *, make 1, knit 1, 
make 1, knit 3, knit 2 together, make 
1, knit 2 together, knit 3; repeat 
from * to the end of the row. 

Sixth row.—Purl. 

No. 49-Ch.ld's petticoat. Seventh row.—Like the fifth. 


Eight row.—Purl. 

Ninth row.—Like the fifth. 

Tenth row.—Purl. 

Eleventh row.—Like the fifth. 

Twelfth row.—Purl. 

Thirteenth row.—Like the fifth. 

Fourteenth row.—Join in the white wool and purl the row. 

Fifteenth row.—Purl. 

Sixteenth row.—Knit plain. 

Seventeenth row.—Purl. 

Eighteenth row.—Purl. 

Nineteenth row.—Knit plain. 

Twentieth and following rows.—Alternately like the fifth and sixth rows, until 
thirteen rows of white have been knitted; then join on the red and repeat from,the 
fourteenth. Repeat these patterns until there are three patterns of red and three 
of white. Join on the white wool and knit forty-eight rows in brioche stitch; in 
the first row take three stitches together at the end of the row. 

Brioche knitting is done as follows: Slip 1, *, thread before the needle, slip 1 as 
though you were going to purl, knit 2 together; repeat from *. To knit the band, 
knit 1, knit 2 together, and repeat to the end of the band; then knit six rows of 
moss stitch thus: Knit 1, purl 1, taking care to arrange the stitches so that a purl 
stitch always comes under a plain one. Join the skirt by sewing from the bottom 
up to the brioche stitch. 

This petticoat is very pretty knit in pale blue Germantown wool. One hun¬ 
dred and fifty stitches will be sufficient then. By using a greater number of stitches 
















34 


KNITTING AND CROCHET. 


handsome skirts can be knit for ladies’ wear. They are more comfortable when 
set on a muslin yoke. They can be knit in two or more breadths and then sewed 
together. 

no. 50— lady’s petticoat. 

This petticoat takes about fifteen skeins of white yarn; bone needles No. 5. 

Cast on one hundred and twenty, and knit twenty-five inches plain, then rib by 
doing two plain and two purl for twenty-four rows; cast off; do another breadth; 
and for the third and front breadth you must, after the first twelve rounds, de¬ 
crease at the beginning and end of each row about every two inches. If you do 
not like to have a gored breadth, do this one exactly the same as the other two. 
Crochet some scalloped edges round the bottom of the petticoat, after having 
joined the breadths together. These petticoats are very warm, and last for a long 
time. Summer ones can be knitted with the same needles in Angola yarn. It can 
be prettily finished with a border You need only make the petticoat twenty-four 
inches long in that case. 

NO. 51. -baby’s JACKET-KNITTING AND CROCHET. 

Materials: Blue and white wool, blue cords and tassels. 

Cast on one hundred and forty-seven stitches and knit to and fro with blue 
wool as follows: 

First row.—Knitted. 

Second row. With white wool, right side of the work, slip 1, *, knit 1, cotton 
forward, knit 2, knit 3 together as follows: Take the center stitch onto the needle 
before the first and knit the three together, knit 2, cotton forward; repeat seven¬ 
teen times from *; last of all knit 2. 

Third row.—Purled. 

Fourth to eighth row.—Alternately like the second and third rows. 

Ninth row.—With blue wool, knitted, but knit together the stitch just over the 

three knitted together with the stitch preceding it. 

Tenth and eleventh rows.—All the stitches must appear 
purled on the right ride. 

Twelfth row.—With white wool knitted. 

Thirteenth row.—Slip 1, *, knit 2, purl 1 in the hori¬ 
zontal part before the next stitch, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1 
out of the next stitch; repeat from *; last of all knit 2. 

Fourteenth row,—Slip 1, alternately purl 2, knit 4; 
last of all knit 3. 

Fifteenth row.—Slip 1, *, knit 2, purl 1, purl 3 to- 
No. 51 —Baby’s jacket. gether; repeat from *; last of all knit 3. 

Sixteenth row.—Slip 1, alternately purl 2, knit 2; last of all purl 3. 

Seventeenth row.—Slip 1, alternately knit 2, purl 2 together; last of all knit 3. 

Eighteenth row.—With blue wool, knitted. 

Nineteenth to twenty-first row.—Like the tenth to twelfth row. 

Twenty-second row.—With white wool knitted. 

Twenty-third row.—Slip 1, knit 4, alternately purl 2, knit 2; last of all knit 5. 

Twenty-fourth to sixty-seventh row.—Alternately like the twenty-second and 
twenty-third rows, but the armholes are begun in the forty-first row, when the 
backs and fronts are knitted separately, the backs along the first and last thirty- 
seven stitches. 







KNITTING AND CROCHET. 


35 


The sixty-eighth row is begun at the back as follows:—Slip i, knit 4, seven 
times alternately purl 2, knit 2 together, purl 2, knit 1; then for the shoulder cast 
on in one piece with this row twelve fresh stitches, and knit the remaining stitches 
in the pattern of the jacket. 

Sixty-ninth and seventieth rows.—Plain knitting; then for the square at the 
neck cast on one hundred and forty-seven stitches on fresh needles, and knit with 


blue wool as follows: 

First row.—Knitted. 

Second row.—With white wool, right side of the work, slip 1, *, knit 1, cotton 
forward, knit 3 together, knit 1, cotton forward; repeat from *; last of all knit 2. 


Third row.—Purled. 

Fourth row.—Like the second row; then place the last row of the jacket onto 
this row and purl both together; then knit eleven rows, but in every other row de¬ 
crease one on each side of the fresh stitches; cast on for the shoulders, cast off, 
and crochet round the neck as follows; *, one treble in the marginal stitch, four 
chain, one treble in first of four chain, miss 3; repeat from *; then knit the sleeves, be¬ 
ginning from the upper edge as follows: Cast on forty-eight stitches, and knit three 
rows to appear purled on the right side. 

Fourth row.—Right side of the work, knit 18, three times alternately purl 2, 
knit 2; leave the other stitches unnoticed. 

Fifth row.—Knit 12; leave the other stitches unnoticed. 

Sixth to fifty-seventh row.—In the pattern of the jacket, but in each of the first 
six rows take in six of the stitches left unnoticed and decrease one on each side of 
the twentieth, thirtieth, thirty-eighth, forty-sixth and fifty-fourth rows; then along 
fifty stitches knit four rows like the first four of the square at the neck and eleven 
rows plain, after which cast off, sew the sleeve together, and put it into the armhole. 


NO. 52.— infant’s jacket. 

Materials required: Three ounces white Andalusian or merino wool, and two 

needles, No. 14, Walker’s bell gauge. 

Commence in the front; cast on fifty-four stitches. 
First to twelfth rows.—For the plain stripe, knit 
throughout. 

Thirteenth and fourteenth rows.—Knit 1, and purl 
1 alternately. 

Fifteenth and sixteenth rows.—Purl 1, and knit 1 
alternately; these four last rows are repeated twice 
more; knit twelve plain rows, then twelve pattern 
rows, and twelve plain rows, make in all five stripes 
and sixty rows. 

In the next row cast off twenty-five stitches for the 
No. 52—Infant’s jacket. armhole, continue to work to the end of the row; work 

back and cast on twenty-five stitches for the other half of the armhole; continue 
to work across the back with four plain and five pattern stripes, beginning the 
back with a pattern stripe; work the other armhole and half of front as described 
for the first; cast off the stitches. 

For the yoke: Pick up the stitches around the top; after having picked up the 
stitches of one front, cast on twelve stitches for the top of the armhole, pick up the 
back stitches, cast on twelve stitches for the top of second armhole, then pick up 
the rest of the front stitches, knit two rows plain, then commence the decrease to 



















3 6 


KNITTING AND CROCHET. 


shape the shoulder by knitting two together in every other row exactly over the 
center of the armhole. Two plain stripes and two pattern stripes of six rows each 
are worked for the yoke. 

For the sleeve: Cast on fifty-four stitches, work five plain and five pattern 
stripes, cast off, pick up the stitches and work the border round the wrist as de¬ 
scribed for the bottom of jacket, sew up the sleeve with a needle and wool, and 
sew into the armhole, if rather large for the armhole, full a little at the top. 

For the border: Pick up the stitches round the edge. Observe that three 
stitches must be knitted plain at the beginning and 
end of each row. These stitches are not again men¬ 
tioned in the description of the pattern. In conse¬ 
quence of the pattern sloping, the last repeat will 
not work quite out; this does not, however, inter¬ 
fere with the appearance of the pattern. Each al¬ 
ternate row being purled, the pattern is always com¬ 
menced from one side. 

First row.—Knit 2 together, *, make 1, knit 
together, make 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 2 
gether, knit 3; repeat from * to the end of row. 

Second row.—Purl. 


2 
to- 


Third row.—Knit 2 together, knit 1, *, make 1, 



No. 52-«—Stripe for infant’s jacket. 


knit 2 together, make 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 
2 together, knit 3; repeat from * to the end of the row. 

Fourth row.—Purl. 

Fifth row.—Knit 2 together, knit 2, *, make 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 2 
together, make 1, knit 2 together, knit 3; repeat from *. 

Sixth row.—Purl. 

Seventh row.—Knit 2 together, knit 2, *, make x, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 
2 together, make 1, knit 2 together, knit 3; repeat from *. 

Eight row.—Purl. 

Ninth row.—Knit 2 together, knit 2, *, make 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 2 
together, make 1, knit 2 together, knit 3; repeat from *. 

Tenth row.—Purl. 

Eleventh row.—Like third row. 


Twelfth row.—Purl. 

Thirteenth row.—Like first row. 

Fourteenth row.—Purl. 

Fifteenth row—Knit. 

For the crochet edge worked entirely round the jacket and sleeves, work: 

First row.—One treble into a stitch of knitting, one chain, pass over one stitch, 
and repeat. 

Second row.—One double into top of a treble of last row, three chain, pass 
over three stitches, and repeat. 

Third row.—One double into center of three chain, three chain, pass over 
three stitches, two trebles into the next stitch, three chain, two trebles into the 
same stitch the last were worked into, three chain, pass over three stitches, and 
repeat. 


NO. 53.- HALF-SQUARE SHAWL. 

This pretty and effective shawl is easily worked, and will be found a most com- 
































KNITTIA'G AND CROCHET. 

O / 

fortable opera-wrap; it measures one and three-fourths yards across the top from 
point to point. 

Materials required: Three ounces of blue Berlin wool, eight balls white pom¬ 
padour wool, two bone needles, No. 9, Walker’s gauge. 

Cast on with Berlin wool three hundred stitches. Decrease to shape the shawl 
by knitting two together at the end of each row; work in plain knitting throughout 
First row.—With Berlin wool. 

Second to ninth row.—With pompadour wool. 

Tenth row.—With Berlin wool to form the lozenge-shaped pattern; when 



No. 53—Detail of shawl. 


working the first and second stitch pick up and knit the corresponding stitches of 
the last Berlin row with them, knit eight stitches, then pick up the next two 
stitches, and so on. 

Eleventh row. With Berlin wool, knit plain; repeat from the second row re¬ 
versing the pattern formed in the tenth row by picking up the stitches betv’een 
those picked up in the tenth row; the two sides are finished by tying in lengths of 
wool to form tassels; the straight edge is finished by crochet scallops of pompa¬ 
dour wool. 

First row\—One double into each of the cast-on stitches. 

Second row.—One double into a stitch, pass over two doubles, five trebles into 
the next; repeat. 


NO. 54. -CROSS-OVER. 

Knitting worsted, No. xo or 12 needles for a girl; larger wool and needles 
alter the size. 

Cast on twenty, knit one hundred and ten rows, increasing one stitch at end of 
each row; one hundred and thirty stitches should be on the needles; knit 57 
stitches, cast off sixteen in the middle of the row, and knit twenty-four plain rows - 
then knit every row plain, decreasing one stitch at end of every alternate row (neck 
end) till none remain, then commence wdth the stitches left on the needle, and knit 
the other side to form the other front; a row of double crochet all round and a 
little scallop. 





3« 


KNITTING AND CROCHET. 


NO. 55-KNITTED INSERTION. 

This pretty and simple insertion can be used for a variety of purposes, accord¬ 
ing to the material used for it. It may be made in knitting cotton, split zeph} r, 

Barbour’s linen thread, etc., etc. 

Cast on fourteen stitches, and 
knit in rows, backward and for¬ 
ward as follows: 

First row.—Slip i, knit 2 to¬ 
gether, throw cotton forward, knit 
2, knit 2 together, throw cotton for¬ 
ward, knit 2, knit 2 together, throw 



No. 55—Knitted Insertion. 


cotton forward, knit 3. This row is repeated eighteen times more; the stitch 
formed by throwing the cotton forward is knitted as one stitch. 

Twentieth row.—Slip 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 1; place next three 
stitches upon another needle behind the cotton, and leave them alone; knit 1, knit 
2 together, throw cotton forward, now knit the first two of the three stitches which 
have been left; knit the last of the three together with the next stitch on the needle, 
throw cotton forward, knit 3; repeat these twenty rows till strip is long enough. 


NO. 56.- CHEMISE YOKES AND SLEEVES. 

This yoke is to be knit in linen thread; it is easy and durable, as well as 
pretty. No. 70 of Barbour’s is a suitable size, but finer or coarser thread may be 

used at pleasure. 

A ribbon or narrow velvet is to be run through the holes near the upper edge 
in order to make the yoke fit around the neck. 

Cast on twenty-four stitches. 

First row.—Slip i, knit 23. 

Second row.—Same as first row. 

Third row.—Slip 1, knit 2 together, throw thread over the needle twice, knit 2 
together, knit 14, knit 2 together, throw thread over twice, knit 2 together, knit 1. 

Fourth row.—Like the first. In the made stitches knit 1, purl 1, making 

twenty-four stitches in the row. 

Fifth row.—Like the first. 

Sixth row.—Like the third. 

Seventh row.—Like the fourth. 

Eighth row.—Like the fifth. 

Ninth row.—Slip 1, knit 2 together, throw thread over twice, knit 2 together, 
knit 5, knit 2 together, throw thread over twice, knit 2 together, knit 5, knit 2 to¬ 
gether, throw thread over twice, 
knit 2 together, knit 1. 

Tenth row.—Like fourth. 

Eleventh row.—Slip 1, knit 
7, Knit 2 together, throw thread 
over twice, knit 2 together, knit 
2 together, throw thread over 
twice, knit 2 together, knit 8. 

Twelfth row.—Slip 1, knit 2 
together, throw thread over twice, knit 2 together, knit 14, knit 2 together, throw 
thread over twice, knit 2 together, knit 1. 










KNITTING AND CROCHET. 


39 


Thirteenth row.—Slip i, knit 5, knit 2 together, throw thread over twice, knit 
2 together, knit 2 together, throw thread over twice, knit 2 together, knit 2 to¬ 
gether, throw thread over twice, knit 2 together, knit 2 
together, throw thread over twice, knit 2 together, knit 6. 
Fourteenth row.—Slip 1, knit 23. 

Fifteenth row.—Slip 1, knit 2 together, throw 
thread over twice, knit 2 together, knit 3, knit 2 to¬ 
gether, throw thread over twice, knit 2 together, knit 
2 together, throw thread over twice, knit 2 together, 
knit 3, knit 2 together, throw thread over twice, knit 
2 together, knit 1. 

Sixteenth row.—Slip 1, knit 23. 

Seventeenth row.—Slip 1, knit 9, knit 2 together, 
throw thread over twice, knit 2 together, knit 10. 

Eighteenth row.—Slip 1, knit 2 together, throw 
thread over twice, knit 2 together, knit 14, knit 2 to¬ 
gether, throw thread over twice, knit 2 together, kniti. 

Repeat from first row. Always knit 1 and purl 
1 in the stitch made by throwing the thread over 
MING - the needle twice. 

When length sufficient is obtained, join the ends and crochet edge as follows: 
One row of single crochet into the knitted edge. 

Second row.—One single crochet into first edge loop, five chain, one single 
crochet into first chain (forming a picot), miss one edge loop, one single crochet 
into next (or third) edge loop; repeat. A pattern of the detail is herewith given, 
which will be found an assistance. (See No. 58.) 



No. 56 -a. —DETAIL OF CHEMISE TRIM- 


NO. 57. -OPEN STITCH FOR GENTLEMANS COMFORTER. 


Use for double Berlin or fleecy wool No. 6 needles; for Saxony wool No. 12 
needles. Cast on any number of stitches that will divide by four and two over 

First row.—Knit 2, purl 2 alternately. 

Second row.—Knit 2 for the edge, knit 2, purl 2; repeat; work six more rows 
of rib; then the pattern. 

First row.—*, knit 2, purl 2 together, wool round the needle; repeat from *, 
knit 2 at the end. 

Second row.—Knit 4, *, purl 2, knit 2; repeat from *. 

Third row.—Knit 2, *, wool round the needle, purl 2 together, knit 2; repeat 
from *. 

Fourth row.—Like the second row; repeat these four rows until the required 
length is knitted, then knit ten rows of ribbing, and cast off. 

NO. 58.- EDGING. 


This edging is equally pretty knit in either linen thread or split zephyr. No. 
70 of Barbour’s thread is a very pretty size; 'the needles should be a little coarse 
for the threads—about No. 16. To knit it, cast on fifteen stitches, and knit across 
once. 

First row.—Slip 1 (a lacy edge is formed by slipping the stitch from the back, 
holding the thread in front of the work and passing it to the back between the 
slip-stitch and the next one. The slip-stitch at the beginning of each row should 
be taken off in the same way), knit 2, make 1, purl 2 together, make 1, purl 2 to- 





















40 


KNITTING AND CROCHET. 


gether, make i, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 2 together, 

make 1, knit 2. 

Second row.—Slip 
1, knit 10, make 1, purl 
2 together, make 1, purl 
2 together, knit 1. 

Third row.—Slip 1, 
knit 2, make 1, purl 2 
together, make 1, purl 2 
together, knit 1, *, make 
1, knit 2 together, re¬ 
peat from * twice, make 
1, knit 2. 

Fourth row.—Slip 
1, knit 11, make 1, purl 
2 together, make 1, purl 
2 together, knit 1. 

Fifth iow. Slip 1, knit 2, make 1, purl 2 together, make 1, purl 2 together, 
knit 2, *, make 1 knit 2 together, repeat from * twice, make 1, knit 2. 

Sixth row. Slip 1, knit 12, make 1, purl 2 together, make 1, purl 2 together, 
knit 1. 

Seventh row. Slip 1, knit 2, make 1, purl 2 together, make 1, purl 2 together, 
knit 3, *, make 1, knit 2 together, repeat from * twice, make 1, knit 2. 

Eighth row. Slip 1, knit 13, make 1, purl 2 together, make 1, purl 2 together, 
knit 1. 

Ninth row. Slip 1, knit 2, make 1, purl 2 together, make 1, purl 2 together, 
knit the remainder of the row plain. 

Tenth row.—Slip and bind four stitches, knit 9, make 1, purl 2 together, make 
1, purl 2 together, knit 1. 



No. 58. —EDGING. 


NO. 59. -STRIPE WITH CROCHET EDGE. 

This is a very easy, although pretty, edging. It may be worked in split zephyr 
or other fine wool, for trimming flannel skirts (if the 
flannel is colored, the trimming should correspond in 
color, when knit in wool), or in Barbour’s linen thread) 

No. 40 or 50, for ornamenting bureau-covers, etc., made 
of crash, or in knitting-cotton, for heavier work. 

Cast on as many stitches as are needed for the 
length of your work. 

First row.—Knit. 

Second row.—Purl. 

Third row.—Knit. 

Fourth row.—Purl. 

Fifth row.—Make 1, knit 2 together throughout. 

Sixth row.—Purl; repeat from first row'. 

For the crochet edge; No.59 —Stripe with crochet edge. 

First row. Work one treble into a stitch of the knitting, two chain, pass over 
two; repeat. 

Second row'.—One double, one-half treble, one treble, one-half treble, and one 
double under each two chain throughout. 


















KNITTING AND CROCHET. 


4i 


NO. 60- KNITTED BORDER. 

This pretty border may be knit with split zephyr and medium steel needles, or 
in Barbour’s linen thread, or crochet cotton. 

Cast on five stitches and knit the first row, slip 1, throw the cotton forward, 

knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, 
knit 2. 

Second row.—Slip 1, knit the rest; re¬ 
peat this row after every pattern row. 

Third row.—Slip 1, throw the cotton 
forward, knit 2 together, throw the cotton 
forward, knit 2 together, throw the cotton 
forward, knit 1. 

Fifth row.—Slip *i, throw the cotton 
forward, knit 2 together, throw the cot¬ 
ton forward, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2. 

Seventh row.—Slip 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw the cot- 
tton forward, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw the 
cotton forward, knit 1. 

Ninth row.—Slip 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw the cotton 
forward, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw the cot¬ 
ton forward, knit 2. 

Eleventh row.—Slip 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw the 
cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw 
the cotton forward, knit 2 together, knit 1. y 

Thirteenth row.—Slip 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw the 
cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw 
the cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2. 

Fifteenth row.—Cast off eight stitches, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 to¬ 
gether, throw the cotton forward, knit 1. 

Sixteenth row.—Entirely knitted. Begin again at the first row. 

NO. 6l.-INSERTION. 

This is very pretty, if made in Shetland yarn, for trimming flannel skirts, 
either white or colored, or it may be made in Barbour’s linen thread, No. 40 or 50, 

to ornament side-board covers, 
etc., etc. 

Cast on twenty-eight stitches. 
First row.—Slip 1, make 1, 
knit 2 together twice, make 1, 
knit 2 together, knit 5, knit 2 
together, make 1, knit 2 together, 
knit 5, knit 2 together, make 1, 
knit 2 together, knit 1, make 1, 
knit 2 together. 

Second row.—Slip 1, make 1, 
knit 2 together, knit 1, knit 1 
and purl 1 in the made stitch, 
knit 7, knit 1 and purl 1 in the 
No. 61.— Insertion. made stitch, knit *], knit i and 

purl 1 in the made stitch, knit 2, make 1, knit 2 together. 




No. 60 —Knitted border. 


























42 


KNITTING AND CROCHET. 


Third row.—Slip i, make i, knit 2 together, knit 7, knit 2 together, make 1 
knit 2 together twice, make 1, knit 2 together, knit 8, make 1, knit 2 together. 

Fourth row.—Slip 1, make 1, knit 2 together, knit 8, knit 1 and purl 1 in 
the made stitch, knit 2, knit 1 and purl 1 in the made stitch, knit 9, make 1, knit 2 
together. 

Fifth row—Slip 1, make 1, knit 2 together, knit 5, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 
2 together twice, make 1, knit 2 together twice, make 1, knit 2 together, knit 6, 
make 1, knit 2 together. 

Sixth row.—Slip 1, make 1, knit 2 together, knit 6, knit 1 and purl 1 in the made 
stitch, knit 2, knit 1 and purl 1 in the made stitch, knit 2, knit 1 and purl x in the 
made stitch, knit 7, make 1, knit 2 together. 

Seventh row.—Like the third row. 

« 

Eighth row.—Like the fourth row. 

Ninth row.—Like the first row. 

Tenth row.—Like the second row. 

Eleventh row.—Slip 1, make 1, knit 2 together, knit 2, knit 2 together, make 1, 
knit 2 together, knit 10, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 2 together, knit 3, make 1, 
knit 2 together. 

Twelfth row.—Slip 1, make 1, knit 2 together, knit 3, knit 1 and purl 1 in the 
made stitch, knit 12, knit 1 and purl 1 in the made stitch, knit 4, make 1, knit 2 
together. 

Thirteenth row.—Slip 1, make 1, knit 2 together twice, make 1, knit 2 together 
twice, make 1, Knit 2 together, knit 6, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 2 together 

twice, make 1, knit 2 together, knit 1, make 1, knit 2 together. 

Fourteenth row.—Slip 1, make 1, knit 2 together, knit 1, knit 1 and purl 1 in 
the made stitch, knit 2, knit 1 and purl 1 in the made stitch, knit 8, knit 1 and purl 

1 in the made stitch, knit 2, knit 1 and purl 1 in the made stitch, knit 2, make 1, 

knit 2 together. 

Fifteenth row.—Like the eleventh row. 

Sixteenth row.—Like the twelfth row, then repeat from the first row. 


NO. 62. -EDGING. 

t This edging may be made in Shetland yarn, for trimming flannel skirts, or in 
Barbour’s linen thread, No. 40 or 50, for sideboard covers, etc., etc. 

Cast on eleven stitches. 

First row.—Knit 9, turn the cotton twice 
over the needle, knit 2. 

Second row.—Knit 2, knit 1 and purl 1 in the 
made stitch, knit 9. 

Third row.—Knit 9, slip 1, knit 1, pass the 
slip-stitch over, knit 2. 

Fourth row.—Knit 2, cotton twice over the 
needle, knit 10. 

Fifth row.—Knit 6, slip 1, knit 1, pass 
the slip-stitch over, knit 2, knit 1 and purl 1 in 
the made stitch, knit 2. 

Sixth row.—Knit 2, slip 1, knit 1, pass the slip-stitch over, knit 3, cotton twice 
over the needle, knit 6. 

Seventh row.—Knit 6, knit 1 and purl 1 in the made stitch, knit 4, cotton 
twice over the needle, knit 2. 



No. 62—Edging. 






KNITTING AND CROCHET. 


43 


Eighth row.—Knit 2, knit 1 and purl 1 in the made stitch, knit 4, slip 1, knit 1, 
pass the slip-stitch over, knit 6. 

Ninth row.—Knit 4, slip 1, knit x, pass the slip-stitch over, knit 1, slip 1, knit 
1, pass the slip-stitch over, knit 2, slip 1, knit 1, pass the slip-stitch over, knit 2. 

Tenth row.—Knit 2, cotton twice over the needle, knit 3, cotton twice over the 
needle, knit 3, cotton twice over the needle, knit 4. 

Eleventh row.—Knit 4, knit 1 and purl 1 in the made stitch, knit 3, knit 1 and 
purl 1 in the made stitch, knit 3, knit 1 and purl 1 in the made stitch, knit 2. 

Twelfth row.—Knit 2, slip 1, knit 1, pass the slip-stitch over, knit 3, slip 1, knit 
1, pass the slip-stitch over, knit 3, slip 1, knit 1, pass the slip-stitch over, knit 4. 

Thirteenth row.—Knit 6, slip 1, knit 1, pass the slip-stitch over, knit 3, knit 2 
together, cotton twice over the needle, knit 2. 

Fourteenth row.—Knit 2, knit 1 and purl 1 in the made stitch, knit 2 together, 
knit 3, cotton twice over the needle, knit 6. 

Fifteenth row.—Knit 6, knit 1 and purl 1 in the made stitch, knit 2, knit 2 
together, slip 1, knit 1, pass the slip-stitch over, knit 2. 

Sixteenth row.—Knit 2, cotton twice over the needle, knit 4, slip 1, knit 1, pass 
the slip-stitch over, knit 6. 

Seventeenth row.—Knit 9, knit 2 together, knit 1 and purl 1 in the made stitch, 
knit 2. 

Eighteenth row.—Knit 2, slip 1, knit 1, pass the slip-stitch over, knit 10. 

Nineteenth row.—Knit 9, knit 2 together, cotton twice over the needle, knit 2. 

Twentieth row.—Knit 2, knit 1 and purl 1 in the made stitch, knit 2 together, 
knit 8. 

Twenty-first row—Knit 9, slip 1, knit 1, pass the slip-stitch over, knit 2. 

Twenty-second row.—Knit 2, slip 1, knit 1, pass the slip-stitch over, knit 8; 
repeat from first row. 

NO. 63.- INSERTION. 

This is very pretty for table scarfs, etc., in linen thread, or for many other 


purposes. 

Cast on fifteen stitches. 

First row.—Knit 2, cotton twice over the needle, knit 2 together, knit 9, knit 2 

together, cotton twice over the needle, knit 2. 

Second row.—Knit 1, knit 2 together, purl 1, 
knit xo, knit 2 together, purl 1, knit 2. 

Repeat the first and second rows alternately 
three times more. 

Ninth row.—Knit 2, cotton twice over the 
needle, knit 2 together, knit 4, slip 1, knit 1, pass 
the slip-stitch over, knit 3, knit 2 together, cot¬ 
ton twice over the needle, knit 2. 

Tenth row.—Knit 1, knit 2 together, purl 1, 
knit 5, cotton twice over the needle, knit 4, knit 
2 together, purl 1, knit 2. 

Eleventh row.—Knit 2, cotton twice over the needle, knit 2 together, knit 
4, knit 1 and purl 1 in the made stitch, knit 4, knit 2 together, cotton twice over 
the needle, knit 2. 

Twelfth row.—Knit 1, knit 2 together, purl 1, knit 3, *, slip 1, knit 1, pass the 
slip-stitch over; repeat from * twice more, knit 2, knit 2 together, purl 1, knit 2. 



No. 63 —Insertion. 











44 


KNITTING AND CROCHET. 


Thirteenth row. Ivnit 2, cotton twice over the needle, knit 2 together, knit 
2, cotton twice over the needle, knit 3, cotton twice over the needle, knit 2, knit 2 
together, cotton twice over the needle, knit 2. 

Fourteenth row. Knit 1, knit 2 together, purl 1, knit 3, knit 1 and purl 1 in 
the made stitch; repeat from * once more, knit 2 together, purl 1, knit 2. 

h ifteenth row. Knit 2, cotton twice over the needle, knit 2 together, knit 2, 
slip 1, knit 1, pass the slip-stitch over, slip 1, knit 1, pass the slip-stitch over, knit 1, 
slip 1, knit 1, pass the slip-stitch over, knit 2, knit 2 together. 

Sixteenth row. Knit 1, knit 2 together, purl 1, knit 5, cotton twice over the 
needle, knit 4, knit 2 together, purl 1, knit 2. 

Seventeenth row, Knit 2, cotton twice over the needle, knit 2 together, knit 4, 
knit 1 and purl x in the made stitch, knit 4, knit 2 together, cotton twdce over the 
needle, knit 2. 

Eighteenth row. Knit 1, knit 2 together, purl 1, knit 5, slip 1, knit 1, pass the 
slip-stitch over, knit 4, knit 2 together, purl 1, knit 2. 

Repeat from first row. 


NO. 64. -VENETIAN LACE. 


This may be used for trimming window-shades, worked in No. 20 Coates’ cot¬ 
ton, with small steel needles; or it may be worked in No. 40 Barbour’s linen thread, 
or No. 24 Coates’cotton, for trimming side-board 


covers, etc., made of crash. Or it will make 
pretty and strong trimming for undergarments. 

This pretty lace is very simple. To work it, 
cast on nineteen stitches and knit across once. 

First row.—Knit 8, make 1, slip 1, knit 2 to¬ 
gether, draw the slip-stitch over them, make 1, 
knit 2 together, knit 1, make 1, knit 2 together, 
make 1, knit 2 together,make 1, knit 2 together, 
knit 1. 

Second row.—Knit 2, make 1, knit 2 togeth¬ 
er, purl 14. 



No. 64 —Venetian lace. 


knit 3, make 1, knit 2, 


Third row.—Knit 8, make 1, knit 3, make 1, 
knit 2, .make 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 2 together, knit 1. 

Fourth row.—Knit 2, make 1, knit 2 together, purl 16. 

Fifth row. Knit 2 together three times, knit i, knit 2 together, make t slip , 
knit 2 together, draw the slip-stitch over, make 1, knit 2 together, knit 1 make 1’ 
knit 2 together, make x, knit 2 together, knit 1. 

Sixth row.—Knit 2, make 1, knit 2 together, purl n. 

Seventh row.—Knit 2 together twice, knit 1, make 1, 
make 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 2 together, knit 1. 

Eighth row.—Knit 2, make 1, knit 2 together, purl n. 

Ninth row. Knit 2 together, knit 2, make 1, slip 1, knit 2 together, draw the 
slip-stitch over, make 1, knit 2 together, knit 1, make 1, knit 2 together make 
knit 2 together, knit i. ’ ’ 

Tenth row.—Knit 2, make 1, knit 2 together, purl 9. 

Eleventh row.-Knit 2 together, knit 1, make 1, knit 3, make 1, knit 2, make 1 
knit 2 together, make i, knit 2 together, knit 1. 

Twelfth row.—Knit 2, make 1, knit 2 together, purl 10. 

Then cast on five stitches and repeat. 











KNITTING AND CROCHET. 


45 


NO. 65. -KNITTED BORDER. 

If knitted with thick cotton, this border will be suitable for trimming a coun¬ 
terpane; if fine cotton is used, it will form a pretty child’s collar. 

To make a collar, begin by a chain of two hundred and twenty stitches, and 

work six rows backward and forward alter¬ 
nately, knitting four stitches and purling two. 

In the second, fourth and sixth rows the 
four stitches are purled, and the two are 
knitted. 

Seventh row.—*, purl 2, make 1, knit 2, 
purl 2; repeat from *. 

Eighth row.—Alternately purl 5, knit 2; 
all the rows with even numbers are knitted 
like this, except that the number of the 
knitted stitches are increased by two in each 
of them; we will not, therefore, henceforth mention these rows. 

Ninth row.—*, knit 2, make 1, knit 1, make 1, knit 2, purl 2; repeat from *. 

Eleventh row.—*, knit 2, make 1, knit 3, make 1, knit 2, purl 2; repeat from *. 

Thirteenth row.—*, knit 2, make 1, knit 5, make 1, knit 2, purl 2; repeat from*. 

The pattern is continued in the same manner. The small gores formed be¬ 
tween the ribs are increased by two stitches in every second row. Each of these 
gores has thirteen stitches in the twenty-first row, which is the last. Cast off all 
the stitches after this row. Take a crochet needle, and with the same cotton as 
that used for the knitting, work one stitch of double crochet in every stitch of the 
selvedge, then the two following rows for the edging. 

First row.—Alternately one treble, one chain, under which miss 1. 

Second row.—Alternately one double over one treble of preceding row, one 
purl (that is, five chain and one slip-stitch in the first), under which miss 1; over the 
first row of the knitting work one row of close double crochet; the border is now 
completed. 

NO. 66.-KNITTED BRACES. 

Material: Knitting cotton, No. 8 or 12. 

These braces are knitted with coarse white cotton, taken double; the braces 
themselves are worked in brioche stitch, the lappets are knitted plain. 

Begin at the bottom of the front lappet, make a foundation chain of fourteen 
stitches, knit five rows plain backward and forward, then divide the stitches into 
two halves to form the button-hole; knit fifteen rows on each of the halves con¬ 
sisting of seven stitches; then take the fourteen stitches again on one needle and 
work seventeen rows on them. Then work a second button-hole like the first one; 
knit six more rows plain, increasing one at the end of every row, so that the num¬ 
ber of stitches at the end of the lappet is twenty. Then begin the pattern in 
brioche stitch; it is worked as follows: 

Knit first one row, then slip the first stitch of the first following pattern row, 
*, throw the cotton forward, slip the next stitch (slip the stitches always as if you 
were going to purl them), knit 2 together; repeat five times more from *;, the last 
stitch is knitted. 

Second row.—Slip 1, *, knit 2; the stitch which has been formed in the preced¬ 
ing row by throwing the cotton forward is slipped after the second knitted stitch; 
repeat five times more from *; knit the last stitch. 








4 6 


KNITTING AND CROCHET. 


Third row—Slip i, *, decrease i (here, and in all the following rows, knit the 
next stitch together with the stitch before it, which has been formed in the preced¬ 
ing row by throwing the cotton forward), throw the cotton forward, slip i; repeat 
from *; knit the last stitch. 

Fourth row.—Slip i, *, knit i, slip the stitch which has been formed in the 
preceding row by throwing the cotton forward, knit i; knit the last stitch. 

Repeat these four rows till the braces are long enough. The pattern is nine¬ 
teen inches long. Then knit six rows plain, decreasing one at the end of every 
row, then work each lappet separately, dividing the stitches so that each lappet is 
seven inches wide. Each lappet has seventy-two rows; after first eighteen rows 
make a button-hole as described for the preceding one. 

Work eighteen rows between the first and second button-hole. The lappets 
are rounded off by decreasing after the second button-hole. 


no. 67.— baby’s knitted sock. 



Materials for one pair: One ounce of single Berlin wool, one yard of narrow 
pink or blue ribbon, two fine steel needles. 

This sock fits well and is easy to make. It is knitted upon two needles back¬ 
ward and forward. Cast on twenty-two 
stitches and knit twenty-two rows, but, 
increase once at the end of every other 
row on the right side of the work so 
that there are thirty-three stitches in 
the twenty-second row. Now cast off 
twenty-eight stitches and knit twelve 
rows, increasing one stitch at the end 
of every other row; now twelve more 
rows, decreasing one stitch at the end of 
every other row; this forms the toe. Cast 
on twenty-eight stitches on the same 
needle, and knit twenty-two rows, de¬ 
creasing one stitch at the end of every 
other row, and cast off. Pick up the 
sixty-eight stitches on the upper part of 
shoe, and knit twenty rows, alternately 
two plain and two purl rows, decreasing 
one stitch on each side of the twelve 
stitches in every other row, which forms 
the toe and front of sock. Knit fourteen rows of two plain, two purl stitches alter¬ 
nately, then three open rows with one plain row between, three times over. The 
open rows are worked as follows: *, purl 2 together, purl 1, make 1, repeat from *, 
three plain rows, one open row, one plain row, and cast off. The sock is sewed 
together down the back of leg, center of sole, and the point joined like a gusset to 
form the toe. 


No. 67 —Baby’s sock. 


no. 68.—baby’s knitted sock. 

Two skeins white Andalusian* wool; four needles, No. 15. 
Cast on sixty-three stitches, twenty-one on each needle. 
Purl two rounds. 


*Andalusian wool is like Shetland, but thicker, having four threads instead of two. 







I 


KNITTING AND CROCHET . 


47 


Third round.—*, knit 2 together, knit 1, wool forward to make a stitch, knit 1, 
make 1, knit 1, knit 2 together; repeat from *. 

Fourth round.—Knit plain; repeat these two rounds till there are four little 

holes. 

Purl two rounds.* Knit from the third round again and after the two 
purled rounds, decrease for the leg. 

Knit 2, *, knit 3, knit 2 together, repeat 
from *, knit 1. There should be fifty- 
one stitches. 

Knit the rest of the sock rather 
loosely. 

Upon the first ten stitches on the 
front needle the pattern is worked dif¬ 
ferently from the rest of the leg. Two 
rows of plain and two rows of purl, and 
this is continued to the instep. 

First and second rounds.—Knit n, 

*, purl 2, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1; repeat 
from *. 

Third and fourth rounds.—Purl 
10, knit 1, *, purl 1, knit 1, purl 2, knit 
1; repeat from 

Knit these four rounds till there 
are eight purled ridges across the front, 
then make holes for ribbon. Knit plain 
all round; then knit 11, *, wool twice 
round the needle, knit 2 together, knit 
1; repeat from *. 

Next round purl 10; knit the rest 

plain. . . . 

The foot and sole are knitted in basket pattern, the instep is a continuation 

of the pattern down the front of the leg—that is the ten stitches puried and plain 

and one stripe on each side of them. Have all these twenty-two stitches on the 

front needle. , 

The Heel. —Upon the two back needles knit the heel m basket pattern for 

twenty rows, thus: 

* First row.—Knit plain twenty-nine stitches; turn. 

Second row.—Purl; turn. 

Third row.— Knit 2, purl 2; repeat. (Purl the last two stitches together in 
this row.) 

Fourth row.—Knit 2, purl 2; repeat; turn. 

Fifth row.—Knit plain. 

Sixth row.—Purl. 

Seventh row.—Purl 2, knit 2. 

Eighth row.—Purl 2, knit 2; repeat from . 

In the twenty-first row begin to turn the heel. Knit nineteen stitches on one 
needle, turn; purl 8, purl 2 together. (Continue the basket pattern ) * Turn; knit 
S knit 2 together, turn; repeat from *, till there are nine stitches left on the needle. 
Pick up and knit eleven at the side of the heel; knit the pattern on the front 
needle; pick up and knit twelve on the other side of the heel and knit four from 



No. 68—Baby’s knitted sock. 

















4 8 


KNITTING AND CROCHET. 


the other heel needle, making sixteen stitches at each side of the heel. Knit the 
next needle plain and knit the last two stitches together; pattern on the front 
needle, knit the first two stitches together on the other side needle and the rest 
plain. 

Repeat these decreasings three times more in the first rows of plain. 

When there are fifteen purled ridges down the front, leave off this pattern, 
knit plain all round and knit the basket pattern to the end of the toe. 

\\ hen there are ten rows of pattern from where the heel stitches were picked 
up, divide the stitches for decreasing the toe. In the first plain round at the end 
of the back needle, knit 2 together, knit 1. On the front needle knit 1, knit 2 
together, at the end knit 2 together, knit 1. The next back needle knit 1, knit 2 
together. (Always knit the first and last stitches plain.) Decrease in this way 
in every first plain row. 

\\ hen there are fourteen patterns up the sole and twenty stitches on the 
needles, after the two plain rows, pull the sock through the needles, and on the 
wrong side, knit together and cast off. 

Pick up each stitch at the end of the instep pattern, knit it and cast it off 
With coarse white silk work three herring-bone stitches across every other ridge 
down the front. Run a white ribbon through the ankle holes, and make a little 
bow of the same to sew on the instep. 

NO. 69. -baby’s SHETLAND SOCK. 

One skein white Shetland wool; one skein coarse white silk; four needles 
No. 15. 

The Foot.—On one needle cast on twenty-eight stitches. Increase on the sec¬ 
ond stitch at the beginning and end of every row till there are thirty-five stitches 

on the needle. (The heel is where the 
short end of wool is.) Then increase 
at the toe only, at the beginning and 
end of every row till there are fifty 
stitches. 

Knit two rows plain; knit to the 
heel; purl back. 

First row of pattern.—Purl 18, 
knit 3, *, wool over, knit 2 together, knit 
2, wool over o, knit 2 together, knit 2; 
repeat from *, knit the three last. 
Second row.—Purl 32, knit 18. 
Third row.—Knit 21, *, wool over 
o, knit 2 together, knit 2; repeat from 
Fourth row.—Purl all; repeat 
from the first pattern row till there are 
four holes, then work the pattern upon 
thirty-three stitches,take a third needle, 
knit 2 together, knit 15 plain, turn, 
purl 16. Now knit the pattern upon 
the thirty-three stitches only, till there 
are sixteen holes (slip the first stitch 
at the instep). From the toe purl 18, 
cnit the pattern as before, and cast on seventeen for the other side of the leg. Purl 



No. G9—Baby’s Shetland sock. 















KNITTING AND CROCHET. 


49 


32, knit 18. Work the pattern all along till there are four little holes at the side. 
Knit plain from the toe. Knit back plain. Now decrease, knit together the second 
and third stitch at the beginning and end of every row at the toe till there are 
thirty-five stitches. Decrease at the beginning and end of every row at the toe 
and heel till there are twenty nine stitches. Knit 2 together and cast off. Do not 
break the wool, pick up all these stitches again on the front of each loop and six¬ 
teen more at the toe. 

The Sole .—Knit back, pick up and knit 2 from the round of the heel; knit to 
the toe forty-six stitches; knit to five from the heel; turn (slip the first stitch), knit 
to the toe; knit to the end of the heel; leave this needle, pick up on the other side 
of the shoe forty-four stitches, and from the toe end knit to the heel, pick up and 
knit two more stitches; knit to the toe; knit to five from the heel, turn; knit to the 
toe; knit to the heel; fold the needles, and on the wrong side knit together cast¬ 
ing off. 

Before knitting further, with a wool needle and white silk work four herring¬ 
bone stitches upon every other purled ridge down the toe, and five and six stitches 
upon every other plain bar across the instep and two in the same way all round 
the sides. 

The Leg .—Pick up and knit 17 at the ankle; with another needle pick up and 
knit 15 across the instep, and knit 17 at the other side, making a stitch at the heel; 
knit one round; purl one round; knit one round; purl one round; knit two 
rounds. 

Holes for Ribbon .—*, knit 3, wool twice around the needle, knit 2 together, repeat 
from *; knit two rounds; purl one round; knit one round; purl one round; knit 
one round. 

First pattern round.—Knit 4, purl 2 together; repeat. 

Second round.—Knit 4,*, pick up one and knit it (the long stitch just before the 
double one), knit 5; repeat from *. 

Third round.—Knit 3, purl 2 together, *, knit 4, purl 2 together; repeat from *. 

Fourth round.—Knit 3, *, pick up one and knit it, knit 5; repeat from *. 

Continue in this way, knitting one less at the beginning of the round to slant 
the row of holes till there are six, then change the pattern; knit one round; purl 
one round; knit one round; purl one round; knit one round; knit 2, purl 1 for five 
rounds; change the pattern, knit 2 together ail round. 

In the next round put the wool forward and knit 1; repeat this all round; knit 
two rounds plain; make another row of holes in the same way and two plain rounds; 
purl one round; knit 2, purl 2 for four rounds; knit one round plain, cast off with 
silk and wool loosely, using a larger needle in the right hand. With silk make two 
large herring-bone stitches across the slanting pattern and above the next purled 
rows through the first row of little holes. Sew up the toe to the sole neatly and 
the heel. Run white ribbon at the ankle. 

no. 70.— lady’s boots. 

Materials needed: Four steel needles, and gray or other yarn. 

Cast on two hundred and seventy-two stitches (the lower edge of the boot), 
knit three rows of purl 2 and knit 2; now knit seventy-six rows plain, remember¬ 
ing always to knit 3 together in one line, which thus forms the front seam 
of boot, the narrowed sitches being the middle ones. Always knit this middle 
stitch together with the one before and after it. Now knit thirty-eight rows of 
knit 2, purl 2, without narrowing. Cast off. A sole maybe made of card-board cov- 


5 ° 


KNITTING AND CROCHET. 


ered with flannel, with an additional sole of twine, in plain knitting, narrowed and 
widened to fit the foot; or a pair of old slipper soles may be used. The simplest 
and easiest way is to buy a pair of soles at the shoe-maker’s. 


no. 71.— SLIPPER. 



This comfortable slipper is knit in Germantown wool or single zephyr in two 
colors, one of the colors forming a 
warm tufted lining. Have a good pat¬ 
tern of the upper part of a slipper cut out 
in cardboard and shape your knitting by 
it. The knitting is begun at the toe, 
and the increase made on each side to 
obtain the proper shape is made be¬ 
tween the second and third stitches at 
the beginning, and between the third 
and the next to the last stitches at the end of each row, by throwing the wool over 
the needle. 

Cast on the requisite number of stitches, using blue wool, knit one row plain. 

Second row—Slip 1, knit 2; then begin knitting in the loop lining; this is 


worked with white wool; the man¬ 


ner of looping it in is clearly 
shown in the illustration (No. 71- 
a); the stitch lying on the right 
side of each group of loops is 
drawn over the latter, thus bind¬ 
ing it in place; knit two more 
stitches and repeat the looping 
process. Repeat to the end of 
the row; cut off the white wool. 

Second row.—Knit plain, slip¬ 
ping the white loops without knit¬ 
ting them. 

No. 71 - a . Third row.—Knit plain, knit¬ 

ting each group of white loops as though it were a single stitch. 

Repeat from the first row. After the front of the slipper is finished, the 
stitches are divided into three parts, each of these being continued separately. The 
middle one gives the small flap; each of the others one side of the slipper. These 
do not need much sloping, as the knitting is so elastic. When the sides are com¬ 
pleted they are seamed together in the middle behind. The roll round the upper 
edge of the slipper is formed by taking up the edge stitches as far as the small 
flap on four or five needles and knitting thirteen plain rows straight up. When 
these are finished and cast off the strip rolls over of itself and is fastened at the flap 
a few times. The flap is finished with a row of single crochet. Sew on to cork or 
lamb’s-wool soles. 



no. 72.— usTfant’s gaiter. 

Materials: Four ounces white Berlin wool; four needles, No. 14, Walker’s 
gauge. 

Cast on seventy-two stitches; that is, twenty-four on each of three needles; 


















KNITTING AND CROCHET. 


5i 



knit 2 and purl 2 for two and one-half inches; for the first to fourth round (inclusive) 
of calf (see No. 72 -a); knit, except the center stitch of one 
needle, which is purled in every round to make the seam. It 
is a good plan to mark this stitch, either with a pin or a bit of 
colored thread so that you will remember to purl it. 


Fifth round.—Knit 1, purl 2; repeat. Increase by knit¬ 
ting the back as well as the front of the loop, before and after 
the seam, in each fourth round three times; repeat from first 
to fifth round four times, then commence to decrease in the XT „ 

ISo < 2 —Gaiter. 

same proportion as you increased (taking two together), until 

you have worked eight patterns, purl two rounds; then commence pattern shown in 
No. 72-^. 

First to third round.—Knit, decrease two in the first round. 

Fourth to seventh round.—Purl 3, knit 3; decrease two in the fifth round; repeat 
from the first to the seventh round twice more; then divide the stitches as if for the 
foot of a stocking; that is, take half for heel and half for front of foot. Continue 
the pattern on heel for twenty-eight rows and cast off. 

Pick up the stitches at each side of the heel and knit them on the needle with 
the front stitches. 

Decrease by knitting 2 together at the beginning and ending of every row 
till twenty-six stitches are left. Cast off. 

The imitation button-holes are made by crocheting one treble into a stitch at 
side of gaiter, three chain, pass over two stitches, and repeat; sew a pearl button 
in each scallop; sew a strap of leather on the front to go under the sole of shoe. 



NO. 73. -DRAWERS FOR LADIES (MEDIUM SIZE). 

Materials required: One pound knitting worsted and three needles, No. 10, 
Walker’s bell gauge. 

Each leg is knitted separately, and commenced at the waist. 

Cast on one hundred and twenty stitches, work in basket pattern and cable 
twist; six stitches are required for each cable twist, and twelve stitches for each 
basket-pattern stripe; there will, therefore, be six cable stripes and seven basket- 
pattern stripes. 

First row.—Purl 2 and knit 2 three times (that is on the twelve stitches), knit 
6; repeat from the beginning of the row five times more, end with purl 2 and knit 
2 three times. 

Second row.—Knit 2, purl 2 three times, purl 6; repeat from the beginning of 
the row five times more, end w ; th knit 2 and purl 2 three times. 

Third row.—Like first row. 










































































5 2 


KNITTING AND CROCHET. 


Fourth row.—Like second rov.\ 

Fifth row—Like third row. 

Sixth row.—Knit 2, purl 2 three times, take a third needle and purl 3; with the 
first right-hand needle purl the three next stitches, knit 2 and purl 2 three times; re¬ 
peat from the beginning of the row five times more, end the row with knit 2 and 

purl 2 three times. 

Seventh row.—Purl 2 and knit 2 three times, knit the three stitches on the 
third or additional needle, then knit the three stitches from the left-hand needle; re¬ 
peat from the beginning of the row five times more, and end the row with purl 2 
and knit 2 alternately three times. 

Eighth row.—Like second row. Repeat from the first row until you have 
worked seventy-seven rows. 

Seventy-eighth to one hundred and fortieth rows.—Decrease gradually by 
knitting 2 together at the beginning and end of every sixth row. The decrease 
will be in the inner part of the leg, and will not interfere with the cable twist 

stripes. 

One hundred and forty-first row.—Knit 2 together, knit 3; repeat all round. 

For the knitted lace: 

First row.— Knit 1, make 1, knit 2 together; repeat all round. 

Second to fourth rows.—Knit. 

Fifth row.—Knit 1, make 1, knit x, knit 3 together, knit 1, make 1; repeat 
from the beginning of the row. 

For the sixth and each alternate row, the single stitch between the two made 
stitches is purled, the rest of the row is knitted; repeat these two last rows four 
times more, then cast off. Sew up the leg ra.ther more than half way. 

The other leg is worked exactly in the same way; then the two legs are sewed 
together for about four inches in the front. The top is sewed into a linen band, the 
knitting must be fulled into the band at the back. A ribbon is run through the 
row of holes made in the first row of the lace. 

NO. 74. -KNEE-CAP. 

Materials needed: For one pair, four ounces Berlin wool, blue or red, and a 
little white wool for trimming; four or five steel needles. 

Cast on one hundred and fourteen stitches of blue wool, and join them for round 
knitting. Work forty-seven rounds, alternately knitting and purling two stitches. 
In the forty-eighth round begin the gore which covers the knee; it is worked sepa¬ 
rately back and forth, alternately knitting and purling two stitches. After two 
rows^ change the pattern, purling the stitches that were knitted before, and knit¬ 
ting those that were purled, so as to make small squares. 

Knit the first row of this gore upon twenty-six stitches slipped off from the 
last row, on a separate needle. At the end of each succeeding row knit the nearest 
stitch of the neighboring needle, so as to increase one stitch in each row of the 
gore. Work in this manner till only forty-two stitches are left of the original 
ribbed part. Now work the remainder of the gore separately, decreasing once at 
the end of each row till only twenty-six stitches are left. Take up twenty-three 
stitches of the selvedge on each side of these twenty-six stitches as you would pick 
up the sides of a heel of a stocking, and work forty-seven rounds, knitting two 
stitches and purling two alternately. 

The edging at top and bottom is worked in crochet. Make a chain of fifty 
stitches, with white wool. Turn and work one row afghan stitch, then work a 


KNITTING AND CROCHET. 53 

second row in this way: the first part with white, but, returning, make four chain 
between each stitch with colored wool. Repeat the same on the other side of the 



No 74 —Knee-cap in knitting. 




foundation chain, thus making a little ruche, which should be sewed on the edge 
of the knitting. 

NO. 75.- STOCKING KNITTING. 

The number of stitches cast on in the beginning, depends so much on the size 
of the person, as well as on the size of the needles and yarn or silk employed, 
that no exact rule can be given. 

To begin the w r ork divide the stitches equally between three or four needles. 
For a plain stocking, make the top in ribs; that is, purl 3 and knit 3 alternately, 
for about an inch. Or you may make the top in fancy knitting if preferred, such 
as No. 30. 

One stitch is to be purled always, to make the seam stitch. It is well to mark 
it with a piece of colored silk knit in, that you may not forget to purl it. It is a good 
plan to have a stocking (either knit or woven) of about the size you are going to 
knit, so that you can measure it, to see how long a piece to knit plain, before you 
begin to narrow as, of course, the length of the plain piece will depend on the 
size of the stocking. The narrowings on the leg are made on the third and fourth 
stitch on each side of the seam stitch, and a certain number of rounds, usually five 








54 


KNITTING AND CROCHET. 


or six, are knit plain, between each round where you narrow. The number of nar¬ 
rowings depend on the length of stocking and size of wearer round the ankle; the 
usual number is twenty. Some people decrease at the same rate all down the 
lower part of the leg and ankle, but a better way is to decrease more rapidly where 
the calf begins to grow smaller, and more gradually at the ankle. 

When the leg is finished, put half the stitches with the seam stitch in the 
center, on one needle, for the heel. Leave the rest of the stitches on the other two 
needles alone, while you knit the heel like straight knitting, backward and for¬ 
ward, knitting and purling alternately, and continuing the seam stitch, which 
must be knit, in the purled rows, and purled as before, in the knit rows. Forty 
rows is usually adlowed for a man s heel, and thirty-eight for a woman s, oi e\ en 
more if the stocking is large, as the fit of the heel is very important, for a com¬ 
fortable stocking. 

Heels are often knitted with double thread, or sometimes with a silk thread 
wound around the woolen one to make them stronger. 

In knitting the straight part of the heel, always slip the first stitch of every 
row on to the new needle, without knitting it. There are several ways of finishing 
off the heel. For the common heel, knit and purl eight rows, then cast off and sew 
up in center. 

NO. 76.- DUTCH AND OTHER HEELS. 

For a Dutch heel, knit to within six stitches of the seam, slip 1, knit 1, pass 
slip-stitch over knitted one, knit to seam stitch (which purl), knit 4, then knit 2 
together. Turn the work (leaving the outside stitches unknit on the needle), and 
purl back till you reach the fifth stitch beyond the seam. Purl it and the sixth 
stitch together, and turn back; work to the fifth stitch on the other side of the 
seam, when take one of the unknit stitches, with the fifth, to make the narrowing. 
Go on until all the unknit stitches on each side are used up, and only the plain 
stitches are left between the narowings, on the needle. This is also called a Plat¬ 
form heel. French heel is like Dutch heel, save that the narrowings are begun on 
the third and fourth stitches on each side of the seam stitch. Having finished the 
heel, pick up the slip-stitches along the heel on left side, knit them on, and 
knit round the stitches left on the spare (instep) needle. Now pick up the slip- 
stitches on the other side of the heel, and knit them. In knitting round a second 
time it is well to pick up a new stitch or “dig,” as it is sometimes called, say every 
third or fourth stitch along the sides of heel (the slip-stitches that were), as this 
strengthens the work. Narrow by taking 2 together at the beginning and end of 
the under part every other row (/. e., where the heel and instep meet), till you have 
decreased to the same number as you have on the instep needle; or some people 
leave four more than on instep needle. Knit the foot in plain knitting without 
any seam stitch, until the toe is reached—the length of foot must be measured 
from wearer’s stocking. When long enough, begin to take in for the toe. 

NO. 77.-STAR TOE. 

Knit two stitches together from the the back at the beginning of each needle, 
and knit two plain rounds between each round where you narrow; continue until 
only four stitches are left. Knit 2 together twice and cast off. 

NO. 78. -RE-KNEEING. 

Unravel the worn-away knitting, cutting it down the center of the bad part, 
and leaving the raveled-out wool in lines on each side. Pick up the stitches at 


KNITTING AND CROCHET. 


55 


the top and bottom of the work, and place them on needles; join on some fresh 
wool at the top line, and knit and purl rows alternately until the place is filled in, 
taking care to work in with each row the raveled threads lying on each side of it. 
When the last row is reached, lay the needle with the new stitches, and the needle 
with the old together, and knit the two off with a third needle, or sew together the 
two opposite loops on each part. Then sew neatly over the sides of the work, so 
as to completely join the new piece to the old. 

NO. 79. -DOUBLE HEET.-OLD LADY’S RECIPE. 

In setting the heel, slip the first stitch, knit the second, and proceed in this 
manner throughout the row. Between every fifth and sixth stitch make a stitch. 
This is necessary to keep the width of the heel even, as otherwise it will draw in. 
Seam or purl back, and proceed as before, taking care to always slip the same 
stitch in each row. The result will be a very durable heel. 

NO. 80. -A STOCKING IN RHYME. 

To knit a stocking, needles four, 

Cast on three needles and no more ; 

Each needle stitches eight and twenty, 

Then one for seam stitch will be plenty. 

For twenty rounds your stitch must be 
Two plain, two purl alternately, 

Except the seam stitch which you do 

Once purl, once plain, the whole way through. 

A finger plain you next must knit, 

Ere you begin to narrow it; 

But if you like the stocking long, 

Two fingers’ length will not be wrong. 

And then the narrowings to make, 

Two stitches you together take 

Each side the seam; then eight rounds plain, 

Before you narrow it again. 

Ten narrowings you’ll surely find 
Will shape the stocking to your mind; 

Then twenty rounds knit plain must be, 

And stitches sixty-five you’ll see. 

These just in half you must divide, 

With thirty-two on either side; 

But on one needle there must be 
Seam stitch in middle, thirty-three. 

One half on needles two you place, 

And leave alone a little space; 

The other with the seam in middle, 

To pnanage right is now my riddle. 

Backward and forward you must knit, 

And always purl the backward bit; 

But seam stitch, purl and plain, you know, 

And slip the first stitch every row. 

When thirty rows you thus have done, 

Each side the seam knit two in one 


56 


KNITTING AND CROCHET. 


Each third row, until sure you feel 
That forty rows are in your heel. 

You then begin the heel to close; 

For this, choose one of the plain rows; 

Knit plain to seam, then two in one, 

One plain stitch more must still be done. 
Then turn your work, purl as before 
The seam stitch—two in one, one more; 
Then turn again, knit till you see 
Where first you turned, a gap will be. 
Across it knit together two, 

And don’t forget one plain to do; 

Then turn again, purl as before, 

And sew till there’s a gap no more. 

The seam stitch you no longer mind, 

That, with the heel, is left behind. 

When all the heel is quite closed in, 

To knit a plain row you begin, 

And at the end you turn no more, 

But round and round knit as before. 

For this, on a side needle take 
The loops the first slip-stitches make; 

With your heel needle—knit them plain, 
To meet the old front half asfain. 

This on one needle knit should be, 

And then you’ll have a needle free 
To take up loops the other side, 

And knit round plain, and to divide 
The back parts evenly in two; 

Off the heel needle some are due; 

Be careful that you count the same. 

On each back needle, knit round plain; 
But as the foot is much too wide, 

Take two together at each side, 

On the back needle where they meet 
The front to make a seam quite neat. 

Each time between knit one plain round, 
Till stitches sixty-four are found; 

And the front needle does not lack 
As many as on both the back. 

You next knit fifty-six rounds plain, 

But do not narrow it again; 

’Twill then be long enough, and so 
Begin to narrow for the toe. 

Your long front row knit plainly through, 
But at its end knit stitches two; 

Together and together catch 
Two first in the next row to match; 

Then to the other side knit plain 


KNITTING AND CROCHET 


57 


Half round, and do the same again; 

That is, two last together catch, 

Two first in the front row to match. 

At first knit four plain rounds between, 

Then two, then one, until ’tis seen 
You’ve knit enough to close the toe; 

And then decrease in every row, 

Until to stitches eight you’re brought, 

Then break the thread off—not too short— 

And as these stitches eight you do, 

Each time your end of thread pull through; 

Then draw up all to close it tight, 

And with a darning needle bright, 

Your end of thread securely run, 

And then, hurrah! the stocking’s done! 

no. 81.— ladies’ winter stocking. 

Materials: Eight ounces knitting worsted; four needles, No. 15, Walker’s 
gauge. 

Cast on one hundred and thirteen stitches; that is, thirty-eight on each of two 
needles and thirty-seven on the third. 

First round.—Purl 1, knit 2 all around. 

Second round.—Purl 1, knit 2 till you come to the nineteenth stitch; knit this 
stitch instead of purling it; to form the seam, knit 2 and purl 1 to the end of the 
round. 

Continue these two rounds until you have one hundred and twenty rounds. 

One hundred and twenty-first round.—To form the calf, knit till within one 
stitch of the seam, continuing the rib; increase a stitch by knitting two in one; 
knit 1, purl the seam stitch, knit 1, increase one by knitting two in one. and con¬ 
tinue the round as usual. 

One hundred and twenty-second round.—Same as the second round, with the 
exception of knitting the increased stitch on each side of the seam, which keeps 
the rib correct. 

One hundred and twenty-third round. Same as the last, excepting that } ou 
purl the seam stitch. 

One hundred and twenty-fourth round.—Same as one hundred and twenty- 
second round. 

One hundred and twenty-fifth round.—Same as one hundred and twenty-third 
round. 

One hundred and twenty-sixth round.—Same as one hundred and twenty- 
second round. 

One hundred and twenty-seventh round.—Increase in the same manner as one 
hundred and twenty-first round, continue till the one hundred and thirty-second 
round without increase, always knitting the increased stitches. 

One hundred and thirty-third round.—Increase the same as the one hundred 
and twenty-first round; at this increase another rib is formed on each side of the 

seam. 

Work as before, increasing three times in the like manner—that is, working in 
each instance five rounds between each increase. 




KNITTING AND CROCHET. 


One hundred and fifty-first round completes the sixth increase, and forms an¬ 
other rib on each side of the seam stitch. 

Then work seven rounds without increase. 

One hundred and fifty-ninth round.—Decrease by working as usual till within 
three stitches of the seam; knit 2 together, knit 1, purl the seam stitch, knit 1, knit 
2 together; continue the remainder of the round as usual. 

Five rounds more without decrease. 

One hundred and sixty-fifth round.—Decrease the same as one hundred and 
fifty-ninth. 

Continue decreasing every sixth round till you have one hundred and one 
stitches on the needles, then knit seventy rounds without decrease. 

To Commence the Heel .—Divide the stitches into half, beginning from each side 
of the seam stitch; take another ball of wool, as the heel should be knitted with 
double wool. The stitches for the heel may be slipped onto one needle, and knitted 
with the loose needle. Forty rows should be knitted with these two needles, leav¬ 
ing the instep for the present. The rib in the heel must be kept by purling two 
and knitting one alternate rows; the seam stitch all through the heel is knitted 
plain. 

Forty-first row.—Work as usual to six stitches beyond the seam; turn back 
and knit to six beyond the seam on the other side; turn back and work twelve 
stitches as usual. Decrease by taking the remaining stitch and the first stitch on 
the other needle together; turn back and repeat the row, decreasing in the same 
way until only nineteen stitches remain, then break off one ball of wool. 

Pick up the stitches along the heel toward the instep, and as you knit back 
pick up each between stitch and knit it, as it makes the sides firmer. The under 
pail 01 tne foot is knitted plain, and the rib continued along the front. Take two 
together at the beginning and end of the under part every row till you have de¬ 
creased to the same number as across the instep. Continue without decrease till 
you have sixty-two rows, counting from the commencement of the plain knitting. 
Purl the first and and last stitch of the front of the stocking every row to form a 
seam. Begin to decrease the front by purling 1, knitting 3, knitting 2 together, 
knit plain till within six of the other side, knit 2 together, knit 3, purl 1. The front 
part should be all on one needle. Knit 3, knit 2 together, knit till within five of 
the other side, knit 2 together, knit 3; knit four rounds without decreasing, keep¬ 
ing the purl stitch as directed, then decrease as before; work four rounds between 
the decrease three times, then three rounds twice, then two rounds once, then de¬ 
crease every round till you have twelve stitches on each side. Place the two 
needles together, and finish by taking a stitch from each needle and casting them 
off. When this is done fasten the end, and your stocking is complete. 

no. 82.— lady’s dress stocking. 

Materials required: Knitting silk and four needles, No. 18, Walker’s gauge. 

Very fine cotton may be used for the stocking till just above the fancy pat¬ 
tern, if economy is a consideration. 

Cast on one hundred and forty-one stitches on one needle, then knit them off 
on three needles, dividing equally. Knit fourteen plain rounds. 

Fifteenth round.—Make 1, knit 3 together. 

Sixteenth round.—Knit 1, purl 1, and knit 1 in the made stitch, knit 1 in the 
next stitch; repeat. 

Seventeenth to thirty-seventh rounds.—Knit. 


KNITTING AND CROCHET. 


59 


Thirty-eighth and thirty-ninth rounds.—Purl. 

Now work about two inches, or forty rounds, as follows: 

Purl 5, knit 3; repeat. 

Purl two rounds, then commence the plain part of the leg. Purl the seam stitch 
on the center stitch of one. needle; mark it by tying in a piece of cotton of a dif¬ 
ferent color. This will remind you that the stitch is to be purled in every round. 

The decrease for the leg may be worked from Lady’s Stocking, No. 81. About 
twelve inches plain knitting is needed before the pattern begins, and in this the 
decrease must be made. 

Where the pattern begins, fifteen stitches—that is, seven stitches on each side 
of the seam—should be left for plain knitting to continue the decrease without in¬ 
juring the pattern. As the pattern must be kept quite straight at the edge, it will 
not be important if a few more plain stitches are left at the middle of the back be¬ 
fore beginning the pattern, but it is necessary that ten stitches to a pattern is 
worked on, so that before beginning the fancy part you must count the stitches on 
your needles. 

For the Vandyke pattern on the leg which is divisible by ten: 

First round.—Knit 3, *, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 1, purl 1 in the next 
stitch, make 1, knit 2 together at the back, knit 5; end the round with knit 2; re¬ 
peat from *. 

Second round.—Knit. 

Third round.—Knit 2, *, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 2 together, make 1, 
knit 2 together at the back, make 1, knit 2 together at the back, knit 3; repeat from 
*; end the round with knit 1. 

Fourth round.—Knit. 

Fifth round.—Knit 1, *, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 1 
and purl 1 in the same stitch, make 1, knit 2 together at the back, make 1, knit 2 
together at the back, knit 1; repeat from *. 

Sixth round.—Knit. 

Seventh round.—Knit 2 together, *, make 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 4* 
make 1, knit 2 together at the back, make 1, knit 3 together; repeat from *. There 
will be one stitch too many at the end of the last needle; this must be passed over 
the first stitch on the next needle in order to keep the knit 3 together even. 

Eighth round.—Knit. 

Ninth round.—Knit 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 6, make 1, knit 2 to¬ 
gether at the back; repeat. 

Tenth round.—Knit. 

Eleventh round.—Knit 2 together, *, make 1, knit 8, make 1, knit 3 together, 
repeat from *. There will also in this round be one stitch too many on the last 
needle; this must be passed over the first knit 2 together. 

Knit one inch plain. 

First round of stripe pattern.—Knit 3* make 1, knit 2 together three times, 

repeat from the beginning of the round. 

Second round.—Knit. Repeat these two rounds alternately for three inches, 
divide the stitches for the heel, continue the stripe for the instep and top of the 
foot. The heel, sole and gusset are in plain knitting. For the mode of working 
the heel and toe see Lady’s Winter Stocking, No. 81. 

NO. 83.- RAILROAD STOCKINGS (SILK). 

Materials: Six one-half ounce balls of knitting silk, and a set of needles, No. 20. 


6o 


KNITTING AND CROCHET. 


The advantages of this pattern are that there are no gores or heels to knit, the 
well-known points of difficulty to the young and inexperienced knitter. 

The amount of material required and the pattern given are suited to a medium¬ 
sized stocking. 

Cast on very loosely ninety-six stitches, thirty-two on each needle. Knit plain 
until you have a tube about twenty-seven inches long, when you will have reached 
the instep. Here, for one round, drop each fourth stitch on two of the needles— 
that is to say, knit 3, and drop 1, but knit plain on the third needle—ravel 
the drop stitches to the top by putting your finger under them, when an open lattice- 
work will be produced like that in woven stockings. Then knit plain for the length 
of a stocking foot, measured from the heel to the point where the toe begins to 
narrow. Here drop each fourth stitch from the third needle as before (producing 
an open-work ins'.ep). Narrow for the toe, by decreasing every seven stitches 
(that is to say, knit 7, narrow) once around; then knit seven rounds plain, 
then narrow every six stitches, knit six rounds plain, narrow every five stitches, 
knit five rounds plain, and so continue until you have disposed of your stitches. 

Such a stocking, composed of so elastic a material as silk, will fit like a glove. 
If greater durability is desired, the open work of the heels may be darned with 
lace stitch. 

no. 84.— gentleman’s sock. 

Materials needed: Four needles, No. 14, Walker’s gauge; five ounces knitting 
worsted. 

Cast on twenty-eight stitches on each of three needles with double wool; for 
this allow about two yards of wool, and begin at the folded-over end. 

Knit 2 and purl 2 alternately until your work measures three and a half 
inches in depth. Then commence to knit plain, with the exception of the seam 
stitch, which must be purled in every row; for this pick up an additional stitch 
level with the end of the wool left from casting on, which in working will remind 
you of the seam stitch when you come to it. When you have knitted seven inches 
divide the stitches; put half of the stitches on one needle to work the heel upon, 
thus twenty-one stitches on each side of the seam stitch; divide the front stitches 
equally on two needles; the front stitches are now left until the heel is worked. 
Work the heel with double wool (if the socks are intended for hard wear); knit a 
row, decreasing by knitting 2 together eight times, that is, at every fifth stitch. 
Do not interfere with the seam, but continue it by purling it in the knitted rows 
and knitting it in the purled rows throughout the heel; continue to purl and knit 
the heel alternately for about twenty-eight rows, or two and a quarter inches. 

For the Gusset Heel .—Work 20 plain, knit 2 together, knit 1, turn, purl 9, purl 
2 together, purl 1, turn, knit 11, knit 2 together, kniti; continue these two last rows, 
taking in two stitches more at each turn until all the side stitches are taken in. At 
each side of the heel pick up neatly thirty stitches, then take in the forty-three 
stitches left before commencing the heel, in the round, but let them remain on a 
separate needle; decrease in every round until forty-two stitches are left at the sole. 
To decrease: Knit 2 together the right side and slip 1, knit 1, pass slip-stitch 
over the left side (to know left from right, imagine sock on right foot). When 
the foot measures seven and a half inches, or eight inches, according to size wanted, 
for the toe, knit five plain rounds. 

Sixth round.—Decrease one stitch on each side of the front and each side of 
back stitches, always making the decrease in the second from the outside. 


KNITTING AND CROCHET. 


61 


Seventh round.—One plain round. 

Continue sixth and seventh rounds until twenty-eight stitches are left, cast off 
all round and sew up on the wrong side. 

NO. 85.- KNICKERBOCKER STOCKING FOR BOY FROM TEN TO TWELVE YEARS OF AGE. 

Materials required: Four ounces fine gray and two ounces fine black knitting 
worsted; four needles, No. 15, and two No. 16, Walker’s gauge. 

Cast on ninety-six stitches with black wool on three needles, No. 15; knit 2, 
purl 1 alternately for three inches, which will be about thirty-four rounds. 

With gray wool continue as before until you have worked the sixteenth stitch 
of the third needle; pick up one stitch for the seam—that is, the loop lying be¬ 
tween the sixteenth and seventeenth stitches; purl this stitch in every succeeding 
round. To mark it, draw a piece of bright-colored silk or cotton through it. 
Work off as before to the end of the rounds. 

Work eleven more rounds of gray. 

With black wool work one round. 

Second round.—Increase one stitch on each side of the seam stitch by picking 
it up as described for the seam stitch, and working it to continue the rib. 

Work five rounds without increase. 

In the eighth round increase as described for the second round. 

Ninth to twelfth rounds without increase. 

With gray wool work twelve rounds without increase or decrease. 

With black wool work one round. 

In the second round work 2 together before and after the seam, then work 
four rounds without decrease. 

In the seventh round decrease as described. 

Eighth to twelfth rounds without decrease. 

Work three stripes of twelve rounds each, alternately gray and black, decreas¬ 
ing as described for the last stripe. Work five stripes without increase or decrease. 
Work five rounds gray, then commence the heel. Divide the stitches thus: Place 
twenty-one each side of the seam; that is, forty-three on the heel needle, leaving 
forty-two for the instep. Take a second ball of gray wool, so as to knit the heel 
with double wool and No. 16 needles. Continue the rib working on the heel 
stitches only for twenty-eight rows. 

Twenty-ninth row.—Knit 2 past the seam, knit 2 together, knit 1, turn, purl 9, 
purl 2 together, purl 1, turn, knit 11, knit 2 together, knit 1; continue these last two 
rows, taking in two stitches more at each turn till all the side stitches are taken in. 
At each side of the heel pick up neatly, with a crochet-hook, thirty stitches; work 
with needle No. 15. 

Then take in the forty-two stitches left before commencing the heel, but let 
them remain on a separate needle as they must continue to be ribbed. Decrease 
in every round until forty stitches are left at the sole. To decrease, knit 2 
together at the right side and slip 1, knit 1, pass the slip-stitch over at the left side 
of the sole. To know left from right, imagine sock on right foot. 

When the foot measures about six inches, commence the decrease for the toe 
thus: decrease one stitch at each side of back and each side of front stitches, 
always making the decrease the second stitch from the side. Work the next round 
plain. The two last rounds are to be worked alternately until you have twenty- 
eight stitches, when cast off, and sew up on the wrong side. 


! 


62 KNITTING AND CROCHET. 

NO. 86 .—child’s stocking. 

This stocking is suitable to be made in either knitting-cotton and needles, No. 
18, Walker’s gauge, or knitting silk with needles of the same size, fifteen stitches 
being cast on to the inch, and twenty rounds worked for the inch. As the stocking 
may be made for a child of any size, we think these directions will be more useful 
than giving any stated number of stitches. For shaping the stocking, follow the 
directions given for Knickerbocker stocking, No. 85. 

First to fourteenth rounds—Knit. 

Fifteenth round.—-Make 1, slip 1, knit 2 together, pass the slip-stitch over; 
repeat from the beginning of the round. 

Sixteenth round.—Knit 1, purl 1, and knit 1 in the made stitch of last round, 
knit 1; repeat. 

Seventeenth to twenty-fourth rounds.—Knit. 

Twenty-fifth round.—Make 1, knit 2 together; repeat. 

Twenty sixth round.—Knit. 

Twenty-seventh round.—Like twenty-fifth round. 

Twenty-eight round.—Knit. 

Now commence the pattern for the leg, which must be divisible by six, with 
one extra for the seam. The seam stitch is purled throughout. 

First round.—Knit 4, knit 2 together, make 1; repeat. 

Second round.—Knit 3, *, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 4; repeat from *. End 
with knit 1. 

Third round.—Knit 2, *, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 4; repeat from *. End 
with knit 2. 

Fourth round.—Knit 1, *, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 4; repeat from *. End 
with knit 3. 

Fifth round.—Knit 2, *, make 1, slip 1, knit 1, pass the slip-stitch over it, knit 4; 
repeat from *. End with knit 2. 

Sixth round.—Knit 3, *, make 1, slip 1, knit 1, pass the slip-stitch over it, knit 
4; repeat from *. End with knit 1. 

Seventh round.—Knit 4, *, make 1, slip 1, knit 1, pass the slip-stitch over, knit 
4; repeat from *. End with slip 1, knit 1, pass the slip stitch over 

Eighth round.—Knit 5, *, make x, slip 1, knit 1, pass the slip-stitch over, knit 4; 
repeat from *, slip the last stitch of the last needle, knit the first stitch of the first 
needle, and pass the slip-stitch over; this keeps the pattern even in this round; 
repeat from first round. 


NO. 87. -FANCY MITTEN (SILK). 

Materials: Four one-half ounce balls of knitting silk, and five needles, No. 20. 

Cast on eighty-two stitches. 

First and second rounds.—Purl. 

Third round.—Knit 1 plain, throw silk in front, knit 1, throw silk in front, 
knit 1, throw silk in front, knit x, throw silk in front, knit 1, throw silk in front, 
knit 1, throw silk in front, knit 1, purl 2; repeat until there are only ten stitches 
left; knit 8 plain, purl 2. 

Fourth round.—Slip 1, knit 1, pass slip-stitch over, knit 9, purl 2; repeat until 
ten stitches are left; knit 8, purl 2. 

Fifth round.—Slip and bind as before, knit 7, purl 2; repeat until ten stitches 
are left; knit 8, purl 2. 


KNITTING AND CROCHET. 


63 


Sixth round.—Slip and bind, knit, 5, knit 2 together, purl 2; repeat until ten 
stitches are left; knit 8, purl 2. 

To complete the shell pattern four rounds are necessary. 

Seventh round.—Same as third round. 

Eighth round.—Same as fourth round. 

Ninth round.—Same as fifth round. 

Tenth round.— : Same as sixth round. 

The cable pattern on the back of the hand is proceeded with as follows: 

Eleventh round.—Same as third round. 

Twelfth round.—Same as fourth round. 

Thirteenth round.—Dispose of last ten stitches as follows: Slip off first four 
on to extra needle, knit 4, knit 4 from extra needle and purl 2. This must be re¬ 
peated every twelfth round, until the end of the little finger is reached, and one 
shell stripe must be continued up to the same point on each side of the cable 
pattern. 

When the wrist is long enough take three stitches for the base of the thumb, 
and on each side of them purl one stitch. In the next, and in every fourth round 
thereafter, increase two stitches, continuing the two-purl stripes outlining the 
same until you have twenty-seven stitches in the thumb besides the purled stitches. 
Be careful in starting the thumb to keep the cable stripe in the center of the back 
of the hand. When you have obtained the twenty-seven stitches, knit three rounds 
plain (except the fancy back). Cast on four extra stitches at the end of the third 
round. The thumb stitches are here to be slipped on to a thread and secured. 
With remaining stitches continue the hand, narrowing in each round at the point 
where extra stitches were made, until seventy-nine stitches are left. Knit once plain, 
and then narrow as follows: Knit 7, narrow, knit 7, narrow, knit 7, continue all the 
way round; knit seven rounds plain, knit 6, narrow; repeat all the way round; knit 
six rounds plain, knit 5, narrow; repeat all the way round; knit five rounds plain, 
knit 4, narrow; repeat all the way round; knit four rounds plain. Here narrow 
once on each needle every round until only four stitches remain on a needle, then 
narrow twice on each needle and cast off. 

Then commence to finish the thumb by placing the twenty-seven stitches on 
three needles, and picking up four from the base of the gore formed between the 
hand and thumb by casting on the four extra stitches; knit one round; in each of 
the next four rounds narrow once at the gore; knit fifty rounds plain, and finish by 
narrowing once on each needle each round until you have disposed of all the 
stitches. 

NO. 88.—KNITTED CLOUD. 

Materials needed: Two wooden needles, No. 1; one ounce Shetland wool, and 
one-half pound double Berlin. This will make a long one. Cast on one hundred 
stitches in double Berlin, and knit two plain rows, then fasten on Shetland wool, 
knit two plain rows, knit these two rows alternately in Berlin and Shetland, until 
long enough. Cast off, draw ends together, and finish with a tassel. 

ANOTHER CLOUD. 

Needles No. 3; single and double Berlin wool. Cast on stitches enough in 
double Berlin wool for the length of cloud, knit four plain rows, break off and join 
the single; knit four plain rows again; repeat in this way with the two wools alter¬ 
nately till the cloud is wide enough; cast off and fringe each end. 


64 


KNITTING AND CROCHET. 


NO. 89.—ladies’ knitted purse. 



Two skeins of black purse silk, two skeins of old-gold purse silk, jet beads, 
steel clasp and chain, a tassel of black beads, and five fine steel knitting needles 

will be needed for this purse. 

Begin with the black silk, in the 
middle of the bottom part of the purse, 
and cast on for one part of it seven 
stitches; knit fourteen rows on these, 
back and forth, so that the work will 
be knitted on one side and purled on 
the other; the first row of this part is 
purled, the first stitch of every row is 
slipped. *On that side where hangs 
the thread with which you work, take 
the back chain of the seven selvedge 
stitches of the part you have just knit¬ 
ted on a separate needle, and knit 
another part, the first row of which is 
knitted, and which must have fifteen 
rows; repeat ten times more from *. 
The stitches of several parts can be 
taken on the same needle, to prevent 
the annoyance of working with so 
many needles. 

When the twelfth part is complet¬ 
ed, take the selvedge stitches on the 
left hand on another needle, cast them 
off together with the cast-on stitches 
of the first part, and fasten off the 
silk. Now take the seven right-hand 
selvedge stitches of one black part on 
a needle, take the old-gold silk (hav¬ 
ing first strung the beads on it) and 
work fifteen rows on these stitches, 
the first row purled because on the 
wrong side. In the first, as in all the 
purled rows, the last stitch must be 
purled together with the next stitch 
of the next black part. In the purled 
rows, moreover, excepting in the first 
and last one, a bead must be worked 
in after casting off the second and fourth and sixth stitches. The stitch must be 
worked by inserting the needle into the back part, and in drawing through the silk 
which has been thrown forward, let the bead slide through the stitch so that it is on 
the right side of the work. In the following knitted row, the needle must also be 
inserted into the back part of the bead stitch. When twelve such old-gold parts 
have been completed, work again twelve black parts on the selvedge stitch of the 
same, in which the beads are not knitted in, but sewed on afterward, when the 
purse is completed. Then work three times more alternately twelve old-gold and 


No. 89 —Ladies’ knitted purse. 



KNITTING AND CROCHET. 


65 


twelve black parts; when the last twelve black parts have been completed cast off 
the stitches of the last black part together with the selvedge stitches, the first on 
the wrong side; the stitches of the sixth part are cast off in the same manner to¬ 
gether with the selvedge stitches of the seventh. The old-gold parts which re¬ 
main to be worked on the black part are thus lessened by two; the second, 
third and fourth, and the seventh, eighth and ninth of these parts must be by six 
rows longer. Then gather all the stitches and selvedge stitches of the ten parts on 
two needles, in such a manner that the two black parts, the stitches and selvedge 
stitches of which have been cast off together, are placed on the sides of the purse, 
and knit as follows with black silk, first on the stitches of the one needle, and then 
on those of the other: One row knitted, knitting together every third and fourth 
stitch; then work three rows backward and forward on the same number of stitches, 
which must be knitted on the right side; then work eight rows more in the same 
manner, casting off the two first stitches of the eight rows. Then cast off all the 
remaining stitches, sew the beads on the black parts from illustration, also the 
clasp and bead tassel. 

NO. 90.- BABY’S AFGHAN. 

The following is a pretty and simple pattern. It is knit in imitation of a rose 
blanket, in double or single zephyr, or Germantown wool, if preferred, with 
wooden needles. 

Cast on seventy-eight stitches (or any number divisible by three) with white 
wool. 

First row.—Brioche stitch: i. e., cotton forward, slip 1, knit 2 together. 

Second row.—Knit 2, slip the made stitch as if it were a purl stitch. 

These rows are repeated alternately throughout the afghan. 

Note.—I f the stitches do not come just right at the beginning of the row, re¬ 
member that it is always the made stitch (of previous row) which is to be slipped, 
and the others knitted. 

In the same way in the brioche, or first row, be sure that the slip-stitch is one 
of those on which the narrowing is made. After knitting three rows with white 
wool, knit two blue rows, then two white, six blue, two white, two blue, then 
about sixty rows white; then repeat the blue and white alternate stripes, as at be¬ 
ginning of afghan. 


66 


KNITTING AND CROCHET. 


COUNTERPANES. 


Knit counterpanes are very handsome and durable , thev also bring a high 
price, if knitted for sale. An elderly lady in New York City has knitted and sold 
two or three counterpanes, of simple pattern, within the last few years, at S 5 ° 
apiece; which is a good profit to make on the work of leisure moments. 

The size of the needles and cotton used can be varied to suit the liking of the 
knitter ; but as a counterpane necessarily involves a good deal of work, we would 
not advise any one to select very small needles. 

NO. g 1 -COUNTERPANE WITH DIAMOND STRIPE. 

Materials needed : Two knitting needles, No. 14; about five pounds of Dexter’s 

4-thread cotton, No. 10. 

Cast on fifty-three stitches for the wide stripe. 

First row.—Purl 1 and knit 1 ten times, purl 3, knit 3, purl 1, knit 3, purl 3, 
knit 1 and purl 1 ten times. 

Second row.—Knit 1 and purl 1 ten times, knit 3, purl 3, knit 1, purl 3, knit 3, 

purl 1 and knit 1 ten times. 

Third row.—Like the first row. 

Fourth row.—Purl 1 and knit 1 nine times, purl 1, knit 3, purl 3, knit 1, purl 1, 
knit 1, purl 3, knit 3; purl and knit alternately to end of row. 

Fifth row.—Purl the knitted and knit the purled stitches of last row. 

Sixth row.—Like the fourth row. 

Seventh row.—Purl and knit alternately nine times, purl 3, knit 3, purl 1, knit 
3, purl 1, knit 3, purl 3; knit and purl alternately to end of row. 

Eighth row.—Like the fifth row. 

Ninth row.—Like the seventh row. 

Tenth row— Purl and knit alternately eight times, purl 1, knit 3, purl 3, knit 
1, purl 5, knit 1, purl 3, knit 3; purl and knit alternately to the end of the row. 
Eleventh row.—Like the eighth row. 

Twelfth row.—Like the tenth row. 

Thirteenth row— Purl and knit alternately eight times, purl 3, kni; 3, purl 1, 
knit 3, purl 1, knit 3, purl 1, knit 3, purl 3; knit and purl alternately to the end of 

the row. 

Fourteenth row.—Like the eleventh row. 

Fifteenth row.—Like the thirteenth row. 

Sixteenth row.—Purl and knit alternately seven times, purl 1, knit 3, purl 3, knit 
1, purl 3, knit 3, purl 3, knit 1, purl 3, knit 3; purl and knit alternately to the end 

of the row. 

Seventeenth row.—Like the fourteenth row. 




KNITTING AND CROCHET. 


67 


Eighteenth row.—Like the sixteenth row. 

Nineteenth row.—Purl and knit alternately seven times, purl 3, knit 3, purl 1, 
knit 3, purl 5, knit 3, purl 1, knit 3, purl 3; knit and purl alternately to the end of 
the row. 

Twentieth row.—Like the seventeenth row. 

Twenty-first row.—Like the nineteenth row. 

Twenty-second row.—Purl and knit alternately six times, purl 1, knit 3, purl 



3, knit 1, purl 3, knit 7, purl 3, knit 1, purl 3, knit 3; purl and knit alternately to 
the end of the row. 

Twenty-third row.—Like the twentieth row. 

Twenty-fourth row.—Like the twenty-second row. 

Twenty-fifth row.—Purl and knit alternately six times, purl 3 knit 3. purl 1, 
knit 3, purl 9, knit 3, purl 1, knit 3, purl 3; knit and purl alternately to the end of 
the row. 

Twenty-sixth row.—Like the twenty-third row. 

Twenty-seventh row.—Like the twenty-fifth row, - 

Twenty-eighth row.—Purl 1 and knit 1 alternately five times, purl-i, knit 3, 














































































68 


KNITTING AND CROCHET. 


purl 3, knit i, purl 3, knit xi, purl 3, knit 1, purl 3, knit 3; purl and knit alternately 
to the end of the row. 

Twenty-ninth row.—Like the twenty-sixth row. 

Thirtieth row.—Like the twenty-eighth row. 

Thirty-first row.—Purl 1 and knit 1 alternately five times, purl 3, knit 3, purl 
1, knit 3, purl 6, make 1, knit 1, make 1, purl 6, knit 3, purl 1, knit 3, purl 3; knit 
and purl alternately to the end of the row. 

Thirty-second row.—Knit the purl and purl the knit and made stitches. 

Thirty-third row.—Purl 1 and knit 1 alternately five times, purl 3, knit 3, purl 
1, knit 3, purl 6, knit x, make 1, knit 1, make 1, knit 1, purl 6, knit 3, purl 1, knit 3, 
purl 3; knit and purl alternately to the end of the row. 

Thirty-fourth row.—Purl 1 and knit 1 alternately four times, purl 1, knit 3, 
purl 3, knit 1, purl 3, knit 7, purl 5, knit 7, purl 3, knit 1, purl 3, knit 3; purl and 
knit alternately to the end of the row. 

Thirty-fifth row—Knit 1 and purl 1 alternately four times, knit 1, purl 3, knit 
3, purl 1, knit 3, purl 7, knit 2, make 1, knit 1, make 1, knit 2, purl 7, knit 3, purl 1, 
knit 3, purl 3; knit and purl alternately to the end of the row. 

Thirty-sixth row.—Purl the knit and made stitches and knit the purl stitches 

of the last row. 

Thirty-seventh row.—Purl 1 and knit 1 alternately four times, purl 3, knit 3, 
purl 1, knit 3, purl 8, knit 3, make 1, knit 1, make 1, knit 3, purl 8, knit 3, purl 1, knit 
3, purl 3; knit and purl alternately to the end of the row. 

Thirty-eighth row.—Like the thirty-sixth row. 

Thirty-ninth row.—Purl 1 and knit 1 alternately four times, purl 3, knit 3, 
purl 1, knit 3, purl 8, knit 2 together at the back, knit 5, knit 2 together, purl 8, 
knit 3, purl 1, knit 3, purl 3; knit and purl alternately to the end of the row. 

Fortieth row.—Purl 1 and knit 1 alternately three times, purl 1, knit 3, purl 3, 
knit 1, purl 3, knit 9, purl 7, knit 9, purl 3, knit 1, purl 3, knit 3; purl and knit 
alternately to the end of the row. 

Forty-first row.—Knit 1 and purl 1 alternately three times, knit 1, purl 3, knit 
3, purl 1, knit 3, purl 9, knit 2 together at the back, knit 3, knit 2 together, purl 9, m 
knit 3, purl 1, knit 3, purl 3; knit and purl alternately to the end of the row. 

Forty-second row.—Purl the knit and knit the purl stitches of the last row. 

Forty-third row.—Purl 1 and knit 1 alternately three times, purl 3, knit 3, purl 
1, knit 3, purl 10, knit 2 together at the back, knit 1, knit 2 together, purl 10, knit 
3, purl 1, knit 3, purl 3; knit and purl alternately to the end of the row. 

Forty-fourth row.—Like the forty-second row. 

Forty-fifth row.—Purl 1 and knit 1 alternately three times, purl 3, knit 3, purl 
1, knit 3, purl 10, slip 1, knit 2 together and pass the slip-stitch over them, purl io, 
knit 3, purl 1, knit 3, purl 3; knit and purl alternately to the end of the row. 

Forty-sixth row.—Purl 1 and knit 1 alternately twice, purl 1, knit 3, purl 3, 
knit 1, purl 3, knit 23, purl 3, knit 1, purl 3, knit 3; purl and knit alternately to the 
end of row. 

Forty-seventh row.—Knit 1 and purl 1 alternately twice, knit 1, purl 3, knit 3, 
purl 1, knit 3, purl 23, knit 3, purl 1, knit 3, purl 3; knit and purl alternately to the 
end of the row. 

Forty-eighth row.—Knit the purl and purl the knit stitches of last row. 

Forty-ninth row.'—Purl 1 and knit x alternately twice, purl 3, knit 3, purl i 7 


KNITTING AND CROCHET. 


69 

knit 3, purl 6, make 1, knit 1, make 1, purl 11, make 1, knit 1, make 1, purl 6, knit 
3, purl 1, knit 3, purl 3; knit and purl alternately to end of row. 

Fiftieth row. Purl the knitted and made stitches, and knit the purled stitches 
of last row. 


1 ty-first row. Purl 1 and knit 1 alternately twice, purl 3, knit 3, purl x, knp 
3, purl 6, knit 1, make 1, knit 1, make 1, knit 1, purl n, knit 1, make 1, knit 1, make 

1, knit 1, purl 6, knit 3, purl 1, knit 3, purl 3; knit and purl alternately to the end 
of the row. 


Fifty-second row.-Purl knit i, purl i, knit 3, purl 3, knit purl 3, knit 7 

purl 5, knit II, purl 5, knit 7, purl 3, knit 1, purl 3, knit 3; purl and knit alternately 
to the end of the row. 

. Fifty-third row.—Knit i, purl i, knit i, purl 3, knit 3, purl 1, knit 3, purl 7 
nit 2, make 1, knit 1, make 1, knit 2, purl 11, knit 2, make 1, knit 1, make 1 

knit 2, purl 7, knit 3, purl 1, knit 3, purl 3; knit and purl alternately to the end of 
the row. 


Fifty-fourth row.—Like the fiftieth row. 

Fifty-fifth row.—Purl 1, knit 1, purl 3, knit 3, purl 1, knit 3, purl 8, knit 3, make 
1, knit 1, make 1, knit 3, purl 11, knit 3, make 1, knit 1, make 1, knit 3, purl 8, knit 
3, purl 1, knit 3, purl 3, knit 1, purl 1. 

Fifty-sixth row.—Like the fifty-fourth row.. 

Fifty-seventh row.-Purl 1, knit 1, purl 3, knit 3, purl 1, knit 3, purl 8, knit 2 
together at the back, knit 5, knit 2 together, purl n, knit 2 together at the back, 

knit 5, knit 2 together, purl 8, knit 3, purl 1, knit 3, purl 3, knit 1, purl 1. 

Fifty-eighth row.—Here th- decrease of the diamond begins. Purl 1, knit 1, 

purl 1, knit 3, purl 3, knit 1, purl 3, knit 7, purl 7, knit 11, purl 7, knit 7, purl 3 

knit 1, purl 3, knit 3, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1. 

Fifty-ninth row. Knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, purl 3, knit 3, purl 1, knit 3, purl 7, 
knit 2 together at the back, knit 3, knit 2 together, purl 11, knit 2 together at the 
back, knit 3, knit 2 together, purl 7, knit 3, purl 1, knit 3, purl 3, knit 1 purl 1 
knit 1. 4 ’ v ’ 

Sixtieth row.—Like the forty-eighth row. 

Sixty-first row.—Purl 1 and knit 1 alternately twice, purl 3, knit 3, purl 1 
knit 3, purl 6, knit 2 together at the back, knit 1, knit 2 together, purl 11, knit 2 
together at the back, knit 1, knit 2 together, purl 6, knit 3, purl 1, knit 3,’ purl 3, 
knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1. 

Sixty-second row.—Like the sixtieth row. 

Sixty-third row.-Purl and knit alternately twice, purl 3, knit 3, purl 1, knit 3, 
purl 6, slip x, knit 2 together, pass the slip-stitch over them, purl n, slip 1,’ knit 2 
together, pass the slip-stitch over them, purl 6, knit 3, purl 1, knit 3,’ purl 3, knit 1, 
purl 1, knit 1, purl 1. 

Sixty-fourth row. Purl 1 and knit 1 alternately twice, purl 1, knit 3, purl 3, 

knit 1, purl 3, knit 23, purl 3, knit 1, purl 3, knit 3; purl and knit alternately to the 
end of row. 

Sixty-fifth row.—Like the sixty-second row. 

Sixty-sixth row.—Like the sixty-fourth row. 

Sixty-seventh row.—Purl 1 and knit 1 alternately three times, purl 3, knit 3, 
purl 1, knit 3, purl 10, make 1, knit 1, make 1, purl 10, knit 3, purl 1, knit 3, purl 3; 
knit and purl alternately to the end of the row. 

Sixty-eighth row.—Like fiftieth row. 


70 


KNITTING AND CROCHET. 


Sixty-ninth row.—Purl i and knit x alternately three times, purl 3, knit 3, purl 
1, knit 3, purl 10, knit 1, make 1, knit 1, make 1, knit 1, purl 10, knit 3, purl 1, knit 

3, purl 3; knit and purl alternately to the end of the row. 

Seventieth row.— Purl 1 and knit 1 alternately three times, purl 1, knit 3, purl 

3, knit 1, purl 3, knit 9, purl 5, knit 9, purl 3, knit 1, purl 3, knit 3; purl and knit 

alternately to the end of row. 

Seventy-first row.—Knit 1 and purl 1 alternately three times, knit 1, purl 3, 
knit 3, purl 1, knit 3, purl 9, knit 2, make 1, knit 1, make 1, knit 2, purl 9, kn.t 3, 
purl 1, knit 3, purl 3; knit and purl alternately to end of row. 

Seventy-second row.—Purl the knit and made stitches, and knit the purl 

stitches of last row. 

Seventy-third row— Purl 1 and knit 1 alternately four times, purl 3, knit 3, 
purl 1, knit 3, purl 8, knit 3, make 1, knit 1, make x, knit 3, purl 8, knit 3, purl 1, 
knit 3, purl 3; knit and purl alternately to end of row. 

Seventy-fourth row.—Like seventy-second row. 

Seventy-fifth row.—Purl 1 and knit 1 alternately four times, purl 3, knit 3, purl 
1 knit 3, purl 8, knit 2 together at the back, knit 5 , knit 2 together, purl 8, knit 3, 
purl 1, knit 3, purl 3; knit and purl alternately to end of row. 

Seventy-sixth row.—Purl 1 and knit 1 alternately four times, purl 1, knit 3, 
purl 3, knit 1, purl 3, knit 7, purl 7, knit 7, purl 3, knit 1, purl 3, knit 3; purl 1 and 

knit 1 alternately to the end of row. 

Seventy-seventh row.-Knit i and purl i alternately four times, knit i, purl 
- knit 3, purl 1, knit 3, purl 7, knit 2 together at the back, kn.t 3, knit 2 togetier, 
purl 7, knit 3, purl 1, knit 3, purl 3; knit and purl alternately to end of row. 

Seventy-eighth row.— Like forty-eighth row. 

Seventy-ninth row.—Purl i and knit i alternately five times, purl 3, knit 3, purl 
1, knit 3, purl 6, knit 2 together at the back, knit 1, knit 2 together, purl 6, knit 3, 
purl 1, knit 3, purl 3; knit and purl alternately to end of row. 

Eightieth row.—Like forty-eighth row. 

Eighty-first row.—Purl 1 and knit 1 alternately five times, purl 3, knit 3, purl 
1, knit'3, purl 6, slip 1, knit 2 together, pass the slip-stitch over them, purl 6, knit 
3’ purl x’, knit 3, purl 3; knit and purl alternately to the end of the row. 

Eighty-second row.—Purl 1 and knit 1 alternately five times, purl 1, knit 3, 
purl 3. knit 1, purl 3, knit 11, purl 3, knit 1, purl 3, knit 3; purl and knit alternate v 

to the end of row. 

Eighty-third row.— Like forty-eighth row. 

Eighty-fourth row.—Like eighty-second row. 

Eighty-fifth row.— Purl 1 and knit 1 alternately six times, purl 3, knit 3, purl 
knit 3, purl 9, knit 3, purl ., knit 3, purl 3; knit and purl alternately to the end 

of row. 

Eighty-sixth row.— Like eighty-third row. 

Eighty-seventh row.— Like eighty-fifth row. 

Eighty-eighth row.—Purl i and knit i alternately six times, purl i, knit 3, 
purl 3, knit 1, purl 3, knit 7, purl 3, knit 1, purl 3, knit 3; purl and knit alternately 

to the end of row. 

Eighty-ninth row.—Like eighty-sixth row. 

Ninetieth row.—Like eighty-eighth row. - - 

Ninety-first row.—Purl 1 and knit 1 alternately-Seven.times, purl 3, kmt.3, purl 


KNITTING AND CROCHET. 


7i 


1, knit 3, purl 5, knit 3, purl 1, knit 3, purl 3; knit and purl alternately to the end 
of row. ~— 

Ninety-second row.—Like eighty-ninth row. 

Ninety-third row.—Like ninety-first row. 

Ninety-fourth row.—Purl 1 and knit 1 alternately seven times, purl 1, knit 3, 
purl 3, knit 1, purl 3, knit 3, purl 3, knit 1, purl 3, knit 3; purl and knit alternately 
to the end of row. 

Ninety-fifth row.—Like ninety-second row. 

Ninety-sixth row.—Like ninety-third row. 

Ninety-seventh row.—Purl 1 and knit 1 eight times, purl 3, knit 3, purl 1, knit 
3, purl 1, knit 3, purl 1, knit 3, purl 3; knit and purl alternately to the end of 
row. 

Ninety-eighth row.—Like ninety-fifth row. 

Ninety-ninth row.—Like ninety-seventh row. 

One hundredth row.—Purl 1 and knit 1 alternately eight times, purl 1, knit 3, 
purl 3, knit 1, purl 5, knit 1, purl 3, knit 3; purl and knit alternately to the end of 
row. 

One hundred and first row.—Like ninety-eighth row. 

One hundred and second row.—Like one hundredth row. 

One hundred and third row.—Purl 1 and knit t alternately nine times, purl 3, 
knit 3, purl 1, knit 3, purl 1, knit 3, purl 3; knit and purl alternately to the end of 
row. 

One hundred and fourth row.—Like the one hundred and first row. 

One hundred and fifth row.—Like the one hundred and third row. 

One hundred and sixth row.—Purl 1 and knit 1 alternately nine times, purl 1, 
knit 3, purl 3, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, purl 3, knit 3; purl and knit alternately to the 
end of row. 

One hundred and seventh row.—Like the one hundred and fourth row. 

One hundred and eighth row.—Like one hundred and sixth row. 

Now repeat from the first row for the length required. 

These stripes are alternated with a feather-pattern stripe, for which cast on 
twenty-five stitches. 

First row.—Purl 4, knit 3, knit 2 together, make 1 and knit 1 seven times, 
make 1, knit 2 together at the back, knit 3, purl 4. 

Second row.—Knit 4, purl 2, purl 2 together at the back, purl 15, purl 2 
together, purl 2, knit 4. 

Third row.—Purl 4, knit x, knit 2 together, knit 15, knit 2 together at the 
back, knit 1, purl 4. 

Fourth row.—Knit 4, purl 2 together at the back, purl 15, purl 2 together, 
knit 4. 

Repeat these four rows for the required length. The finish stripes must be 
sewed together. 

NO. 92.- BORDER FOR COUNTERPANE. 

This border must be knitted in pieces and sewed together. It will not show the 
joins if carefully sewed. The number of stitches cast on must be divisible by 
twenty-one for the feather pattern, and by nine for the raised-leaf pattern above it; 
therefore you must cast on sixty-three stitches, or twice, three, or four times sixty- 
three stitches. If this proportion is not observed, the pattern will not come right. 
Knit the long way. 


72 


KNITTING AND CROCHET 

First row.—Purl 3, knit 3, knit 2 together, make 1 and knit 1 eight times, knit 

2 together at the back, knit 3; repeat. , , 

'Second row.—Purl 2, purl 2 together at the back, purl 16, purl 2 together,purl 

Third row.— Purl 3, knit 1, knit 2 together, knit 16, knit 2 together at the back, 

klllt Fourth 6 row.—Purl 2 together at the back, purl 16, purl 2 together, knit 3; re- 

Peat Repeat each of these four rows five times more; knit the two next rows, purl 
the twenty-seventh and knit the twenty-eighth. 


( 




No. 92 —Knitted border for countepane. 



For the first row of the raised pattern make 1, knit 1, make 1, purl 8; re¬ 
peat from the beginning of the row. 

Second row.— Knit 8, purl 3, knit 8; repeat. 

Third row.—Knit i,make 1, knit 1, make 1, knit 1, purl 8; repeat. 

Fourth row.—Knit 8, purl 5; repeat. 

Fifth row.—Knit 2, make 1, knit 1, make 1, knit 2, purl 8; iepeat. 

Sixth row.— Knit 8, purl 7; repeat. 

Seventh row.—Knit 3, make 1, knit 1, make 1, knit 3, purl S; repeat. 

Eighth row.—Knit 8, purl 9; repeat. 

Ninth row.—Knit 2 together at the back, knit 5, knit 2 together, purl 8; repeat. 
Tenth row.—Knit 8, purl 7; repeat. 
























































































KNITTING AND CROCHET. 73 

Eleventh row.—Knit 2 together at the back, knit 3, knit 2 together, purl 8; re¬ 
peat. 

Twelfth row.—Knit 8, purl 5; repeat. 

Thirteenth row.—Knit 2 together at the back, knit 1, knit 2 together, purl 8; 
repeat. 

Fourteenth row.—Knit 8, purl 3; repeat. 

Fifteenth row.—Slip 1, knit 2 together, pass the slip-stitch over them, purl 8; 
repeat. 

Sixteenth row.—Knit. 

Seventeenth and eighteenth rows.—Purl. 

Nineteenth row.—Make 1, knit 2 together at the back; repeat throughout the 

row. 

Twentieth row.—Purl. 

Twenty-first row.—Knit 1, *, make 1, knit 2 together at the back; repeat from 
*; end the row with knit 1. 

Twenty-second row.—Purl. 

Twenty-third row.—Like the nineteenth row. 

Twenty-fourth row.—Purl. 

Twenty-fifth and twenty-sixth rows.—Knit. 

Twenty-seventh row.—Purl. 

Twenty-eighth row.—Knit; then cast off the stitches. 

For the crochet edge : 

First row.—Work one double into every stitch of border. 

Second row.—One double into a stitch in the depth of scallop, *, four chain, 
one treble into the first, pass over two stitches, one double into the next; repeat 
from * eight times more; then repeat from the beginning of the row. 

NO. 93. -OAK-LEAF QUILT. 

Set up three stitches. 

First row.—Throw thread forward, knit 1, thread forward, knit 1. 

Second row.—Thread forward, knit 1, purl 4, knit 1. 

Third row.—Thread forward, knit 3, thread forward, knit 1, thread forward, 
knit 3. 

Fourth row.—Thread forward, knit 2, purl 6, knit 2. 

Fifth row.—Thread forward, knit 5, thread forward, knit 1, thread forward, 
knit 5. 

Sixth row.—Thread forward, knit 3, purl 8, knit 3. 

Seventh row.—Thread forward, knit 7, thread forward, knit 1, thread forward, 
knit 7. 

Eighth row.—Thread forward, knit 4, purl 10, knit 4. 

Ninth row.—Thread forward, knit 9, thread forward, knit 1, thread forward, 
knit 9. 

Tenth row.—Thread forward, knit 5, purl 12, knit 5. 

Eleventh row.—Thread forward, knit 5, slip and bind, knit 8, knit 2 together, 
knit 6. 

Twelfth row.—Thread forward, knit 6, purl 10, knit 6. 

Thirteenth row.—Thread forward, knit 6, knit 2 together, knit 6, slip and bind, 
knit 7. 

Fourteenth row.—Thread forward, knit 7, purl 8, knit 7. 


74 


KNITTING AND CROCHET. 


Fifteenth row.—Thread forward, knit 7, knit 2 together, knit 4, slip and bind, 
knit 8. 

Sixteenth row.—Thread forward, knit 8, purl 6, knit 8. 

Seventeenth row.—Thread forward, knit 8, knit 2 together, knit 2, slip and. 
bind, knit 9. 

Eighteenth row.—Thread forward, knit 9, purl 4, knit 9. 

Nineteenth row.—Thread forward, knit 9, knit 2 together, slip and bind, 
knit 10. 

Twentieth row.—Thread forward, knit 10, purl 2, knit 10. 

Twenty-first row.—Thread forward, knit 10, knit 2 together, knit 11. 

Twenty-second row.—Thread forward, knit plain across. 

Twenty-third row.—Thread forward, knit plain across. 

Twenty-fourth row.—Thread forward, knit 1, purl across. 

Twenty-fifth row.—Thread forward, knit plain across. 

Twenty-sixth row.—Thread forward, knit plain across. 

Twenty-seventh row.—Thread forward, knit 1, purl all across. 

Twenty-eighth row.—Thread forward, knit all across. 

Twenty-ninth row.—Thread forward, knit all across. 

Thirtieth row.—Thread forward, knit 1, purl all across. 

Thirty-first row,—Thread forward, knit all across 

Thirty-second row.—Thread forward, knit all across. There should be thirty- 
four stitches on the needle now. 

Thirty-third row.—-Thread forward, knit 1, *, thread forward, knit 2 together; 
repeat from * all across. 

Thirty-fourth row.—Thread forward, knit all across. 

Thirty-fifth row.—Thread forward, knit 1, *, thread forward, knit 2 together 
all across. 

Thirty-sixth row.—Thread forward, knit all across. 

Thirty-seventh row.—Thread forward, knit across. 

Thirty-eighth row.—Thread forward, knit 1, purl across. 

Thirty-ninth row.—Thread forward, knit across. 

Fortieth row.—Thread forward, knit 1, purl across. 

Forty-first row.—Thread forward, knit 2, *, thread forward, knit 1, thread for¬ 
ward, knit 2, purl 5, knit 1, thread forward, knit 1, thread forward, knit 2, purl 5, 
knit 1; repeat from * across the needle; the last repeat, however will end with 
“purl 1.” 

Forty-second row.—Thread forward, knit 1, *, purl 6, knit 5; repeat across the 
row, the last repeat ending with “ knit 2,” instead of “ knit 5.” 

Forty-third row.—Thread forward, knit 1, purl 1, *, knit 2, thread forward, 
knit 1, thread forward, knit 3, purl 5; repeat from * across the needle; purl 2 
instead of 5 at the end of the row. 

Forty-fourth row.—Thread forward, knit 2, *, purl 8, knit 5; repeat from * 
across the row, ending with knit 3 at the end of the row. 

Forty-fifth row.—Thread forward, knit 1, purl 2, *, knit 3, thread forward, 
knit 1, thread forward, knit 4, purl 5; repeat from *, ending with purl 3. 

Forty-sixth row.—Thread forward, knit 3, *, purl 10, knit 5; repeat from* 
across the needle, ending with knit 4. 

Forty-seventh row.—Thread forward, knit 1, purl 3, *, knit 4, thread forward, 


KNITTING AND CROCHET. 


75 


knit i, thread forward, knit 5, purl 5; repeat from * across the row, ending with 
purl 4. 

Forty-eighth row.—Thread forward, knit 4, *, purl 12, knit 5; repeat from * 
across the row. 

Forty-ninth row.—Thread forward, knit 1, purl 4, *, knit 5, thread forward, 
knit 1, thread forward, knit 6, purl 5; repeat from * across the row. 

Fiftieth row.—Thread forward, knit 5, *, purl 14, knit 5; repeat from *, knit¬ 
ting 6 at the end of the row. 

Fifty-first row.—Thread forward, knit 1, *, purl 5, knit 2 together, knit 10, knit 
2 together; repeat from * all across the row; purl 6 at the end. 

Now knit backward and forward, narrowing each side of the leaf forms on 
every second row, until they are reduced to one stitch on each leaf. Then knit 
two rows plain, one row purl, and one row plain, and cast off rather loosdly. This 
gives you a triangle, four of which form a square, the points meeting in the center. 






76 


KNITTING AND CROCHET. 


RUGS. 


NO. 94.- RAG RUG. 

A very durable and handsome rug can be knit in plain garter stitch of woolen 
rags cut and sewed as if for a rag carpet. The strips, if of merino or cashmere, 
should be about half an inch wide, cloth ones being cut a little narrower. These 
rugs are more easily managed if knit in strips and afterward sewed together. A 
very good plan is to knit a center of plain material, making it about twice as long 
as its width, and then border this all round with successive strips of other colors. 
These borders must be knit in four pieces, and a little calculation is needed in de- 
terming on the width of these border strips, which must be governed by the quan¬ 
tity of material on hand. Measure the number of yards of sewed rags of the 
desired color that you have on hand, and then knit up two or three yards with the 
number of stitches you wish to use. You can easily calculate then whether your 
material will be sufficient for the number of yards of completed knitting necessary 
for the border. If not, a narrower strip must be knitted. Use large-wooden 
needles. All-wool rags are much more serviceable and far handsomer for these 
rugs than any that have cotton in them, but I have seen very pretty ones knit with 
a large admixture of cotton. If your collection of rags consists largely of a variety 
of colors, a very pretty rug can be knit with a “ Kaleidoscope ” or “ hit and miss ” 
center and a black border. I have seen a very handsome one 1 nr entirely of black 
with occasional bits of color, interpersed, and fringed at both ends with strips of 
cloth. A great deal of taste and ingenuity can be exhibited in making these 
rugs, and they will repay the trouble if they are properly knit. 

NO. 95.- ANOTHER RAG RUG. 

The following rug utilizes all the little odds and ends of pieces that cannot be 
used for making carpets or such rugs as above described. For the kind of which 
I am now speaking, the rags must be cut into pieces about two and three-quarter 
inches long, and half an inch wide. For knitting use very coarse steel needles, or 
small bone ones, and strong twine or very coarse knitting cotton. The latter is not 
quite so strong, but is much less wearing on the fingers, and is quite durable 
enough for ordinary use. Cast on twenty-five stitches and knit across once or twice. 
For the third row, slip 1, put a strip of cloth between the two needles, and knit 
a stitch; then turn the other end up again, so that both ends will come on the right 
side, at the same time putting in a new piece of cloth; knit a stitch. Repeat to 
the end of the row, omitting the inserting a new piece before the last stitch. Knit 
the next row plain. Repeat these two rows till your strip is the requisite length. 
A sufficient number of these strips are sewed together to form the rug, and they 
can be arranged as directed in No. 94. A very pretty variation can be made by 



KNITTING AND CROCHET. 


77 


knitting the sections in diamonds of different colors, and putting them together 
with judgment, for the center. In this case, begin each diamond with three 
stitches, increasing at the beginning of each row until you have it as wide as you 
desire, then decrease in the same manner. Select some color for a division line, 
such as yellow, black, or cardinal, and use it for the first and last piece of cloth in 
each row. In this way a pretty mosaic would be formed. A clever knitter would 
soon make other combinations. Excellent materials for this kind of knitting can 
often be bought at a tailor’s for a few cents per pound. After the rug is com¬ 
pleted it should be lined with a piece of sacking or hemp carpeting. Knit tightly, 
and should your knitting curl up badly, your yarn is too fine, and coarser must be 
used. Old woolen stockings, whether knit or woven, can be used for these rugs; 
so also can pieces of dress braid. A border of this knitting can be put round a 
piece of Brussels carpeting, and makes a handsome rug with very little trouble. 

A very handsome rug can be knit in the same way, only using the ravelings of 
tapestry Brussels carpet instead of rags. Remnants of carpet can often be bought 
very cheaply at the large carpet stores. These remnants should be cut into strips, 
two or three inches wide, so as to insure the ravelings being of a uniform length. 
Three or four strands are used for each stitch. Some thrifty people use the ravel¬ 
ings of old knit shawls, stockings, etc., in the same way, but the result is not as 
satisfactory. 

NO. 96.- IMITATION SMYRNA RUGS. 

This is the last fashionable craze in the way of home-made rugs, and the work 
is both beautiful and durable. The principle on which these are made is just the 
same as the more humble rag rugs just described, but the wool used is manufact¬ 
ured for this purpose, and is very heavy. The accompanying cut (No. 96) shows a 
section of a rug to be knit in a design of different colors. The Smyrna wool comes 
in boxes, colors especially suited for this work. Each check of the pattern represents 
a stitch on the right side, that is, two ends of the wool, and the shading of these 



checks give the key for the coloring, which can be selected to suit the worker. A 
rug eighteen inches wide by thirty-six long should be knit in two strips, for con¬ 
venience in handling. 





78 


KNITTING AND CROCHET. 



No. 96. 
















































KNITTING AND CROCHET. 


79 


First row.—Knit or cast on fifty-one stitches of Smyrna cotton. 

Second row.—Knit i, then lay in a strand of wool, one half to the front and 
the other half to the back of the work, knit i, bring the wool from the back to the 
front, knit i. (See No. 9 6-a.) Lay in another strand and continue till twenty-five 
strands have been worked in, taking great care to follow the colored design. 



No. 96 -b. 


No. 96-^ shows the back of the work. Knit the required length, repeating the 
border at the end. Having knit two strips, sew them strongly together with Smyr¬ 
na cotton, having first clipped off any uneven lengths of wool. Any size of rug 
can be knit by increasing the number of strips, care being taken always to preserve 
the pattern. If three strips, for instance, were used the border at the side would 
be omitted. Many Berlin wool patterns can be used in this work, and a clever 

worker could easily design her 
own patterns by the use of point 
or checked paper. In such de¬ 
signs it is always desirable to 
preserve as far as possible the 
Eastern style of decoration. A 
little study of good Turkish or 
Persian rugs would give useful 
hints, while monograms or mot¬ 
toes could be used to give indi 
viduality to the work. 

The materials for these rugs, 
including meshes, over which the wool can be easily cut, are now to- be bought in 
New York; a box of materials sufficient to make a small square costs $1.25; the 
amount of wool necessary for an ordinary-sized rug is about two pounds, and 
costs $1.50. 



No. 96-c. 









































8o 


KNITTING AND CROCHET. 


r 


MACRAME, OR KNOTTED WORK. 


As this work has recently come into fashion again, we subjoin directions for 
making it, together with full illustrations. It is at once so pretty and so strong, 
that it makes its own way in public favor. The new frames and looms that have 
been invented for this work make it much easier to do than formerly. The 
variety of articles to which it can be applied is very great—including borders and 
fringes for mantels, valances, table-covers, rugs, chairs and insertions, and shaped 
pieces for aprons, cushions, footstools, cradle and bed quilts, etc. 

NO I.-MATERIALS. 

Macrame cords can be bought in several sizes in mixed and plain colors. 
Crochet cotton, linen thread, silk twist or cord, and gold and silver thread, may all 
be used for this work. Java canvas and crash, and strong Irish linen may be orna¬ 
mented with knotting by drawing the threads out and knotting the fringe left. 
Or, other threads may be drawn through the edge of the linen, looped once, to 
fasten them in, and then Dlaced in the frame and knotted. 

NO. 2.-PATENT LACE DESK. 



The accompanying cut shows a patent lace desk complete. They are quite 
light, and can be used either on a table or on the knee. Ladies traveling can 





























KNITTING AND CROCHET\ 


81 


readily put one in their trunks, as they do not get out of order. The cleats at the 
side of the desk are for fastening the straight lines of the threads; the swinging 
bar is for fastening the threads when working, and is to substitute the use of the 
buttons on a lady's dress which have been generally used for this purpose. The 
desk is simple, yet complete, and the uses of the several attachments will readily 
suggest themselves. 

For those who do not wish to go to the expense of buying a loom or frame for 
this work, the old-fashioned plan may be followed of stuffing a cushion with bran 
or sand, and putting a strip of lead inside, as long as the cushion and three-fourths 
of an inch thick. The cushion should be fifteen or eighteen inches long, and five 
inches wide. Or a board may be covered with a piece of mattress ticking, strongly 
fastened on and evenly stretched over it—this keeps the work well in place. Glass¬ 
headed pins will be needed, for knotting, and a crochet hook is useful for pulling 
the knots through. 

no. 3.— Solomon’s knot. 


Take four threads, hold the two center ones straight; pass the ^thread at left 

side loosely over these. Take the thread 
at right side, pass it over the first thread 
and under the center ones and up through 
the loop at left side; draw it up tight. 
Then take the right-hand thread, pass it 
over the two center ones loosely; take the 
left thread, pass it over this, under the center ones, and up through the loop at the 
right side; draw it up tight to meet the first part of the knot. This forms one 
Solomon’s knot. 



NO. 4.- BAR WITH THREADS LAID ON AND MACRAME KNOT. 


No. 4 -a shows how to fasten on the 
threads; this is best done with a crochet hook. 
The two loops, which, one after the other, are 
knotted with the threads on the right, round 
the thread on the left hand only, must be 
worked with the first loop knot for the begin¬ 
ning (see 4-^ and 4—r). 

NO. 5 .-TWO LEADING BARS WITH KNOTS. 




No. 5 -a. 


No. 4 -a. 

Here the further working of 
the knots is shown—the heading 
No. 5-i' No. 5-c. being completed, and the method of 

working over a second cross-bar, or 
leader. 5-a and 5-^ show knots worked over the under cross-threads which are now 
laid on, and knots on knots, as described in No. 4, placed in line complete the 
heading of trimming (shown in 5 ~c). 




































82 


KNITTING AND CROCHET. 


NO. 6.-SLANTING RIB FROM RIGHT TO LEFT. 



No. 6-,/. 


No. 6-<r. 


No. G ~b. 


No. G-rt. 


No. 6 -a shows the first looping and position of thread after it. 6 -b is the first 
looping and making of first knot. 6 —c a rib complete. 6 —d second rib in progress. 
The numbered positions of the threads give a much better explanation than 
words can do. 

NO. 7. —SIMPLE CHAIN. 



No. 


Begun with a Solomon knot with the two center 
threads; work with the right-hand thread a single chain 
over the left, then with the left-hand thread a single 
chain over the right. This is sometimes used in fringes. 


NO. 8.-HEADING RIBS AND DIAMONDS. 



* ThisL figure will be an assistance in working fringe No. 28a, as it is here; shown 
larger and in process of being worked. Notice the length of threads left to form 



























































































KNITTING AND CROCHET. 


83 


diamonds between the slanting ribs, also the knots finishing the diamonds before 
beginning two more slanting ribs. 


NO. 9 .—SLANTING RIB FROM LEFT TO RIGHT. 



No. 9-«. No. 9-b. No. 9-c. No. 9-</. 

No. 9 shows the number of threads, their position and working. For the 
working of first slanting rib follow 9 -a. The changed position of the threads after 
working first knot is shown by 9 -b. The first slanting rib completed, and position 
of threads after first knot of second rib is shown in 9 -c. 

NO. IO.-KNOT WORKED WITH EIGHT STRANDS. 



No. 10-a. No. 10-6. No. 10-c. 

This is composed of a Solomon knot at the top and bottom of two single 
chain together, worked with six strands. 



No. 11. 



No. 12. 


• NO. II.-SPIRAL CORD. 

This cord can be made with any number of center strands and is always 
worked with the two outer side strands. Take the right-hand strand, pass'it 
behind the center strands and over the left-hand strand. Take left-hand strand 




















































8 4 


KNITTING AND CROCHET. 


and put it over the center strands and under the right-hand strand; draw up tight 
and repeat. 


NO. 12.-WAVED BAR. 

This is made of four strands; five singles are knotted over two strands in suc¬ 
cession with the left-hand thread, then five singles with the right-hand thread 
alternately. 

NO. 13.-HEADING WITH SLANTING RIBS. 

The knots in No. 13 form slanting ribs, which are 
turned in two opposite directions, and are worked to 
form double and treble slanting ribs. The separate 
looping of the ribs of knots resemble each other exactly. 

In working from the right toward the left the knotting 
thread is looped from underneath round the thread 
laid on; while in going from the left toward the right, 
the loop is formed by placing the knotting thread over 
the thread laid on. To make the rib, always make a 
complete double knot round the outermost of the 
threads laid on with each of the remaining threads. 

Great care must be taken always to hold the thread 
that is laid on firmly with the left hand while the right 
makes the loops round it. 

No 13 also shows the cross-knot which completes 
the slanting rib (see 2—2). 



No. 13. 


NO. 14.— SPHERICAL KNOT. 



No. 14 -a. 


No. 14-(5. 


No. 14-c. 


No. 14-</. 


The spherical knot, either alone, or in triangles and diamonds between slanting 
ribs, gives a rich heading for fringe. Begin with a flat Solomon knot, for which 
four strands are needed, the two center strands hang straight, the right-hand 
thread is crossed horizontally over the two center strands and under the left-hand 
strand. The left thread is crossed under the two center strands and over the right- 
hand strand. The two center strands are now drawn through to form the center 
of spherical knot, and a pin is passed through the knot into the cushion (see 
14-a). To finish the knot (see 14-^) pass the left-hand thread over the two center 
strands and under the right strand, and the right-hand strand under the two center 
strands and over the left-hand strand; draw up; 14-c shows a spherical knot with 
two Solomon knots worked under; 14-^shows it but with one above and below. 

























KNITTING AND CROCHET. 


NO. 15 . CHAINS WORKED IN A ROW WITH OPEN KNOTTING. 

mm 



\ 

1 . 

No. 15-a. No. 15 ^ 

NO. 16 .-CHAINS AND OPEN KNOTTING WITH TWISTED CHAINS. 

In this illustration the previous pattern is elaborated with an addition of 
twisted and flat chains placed diagonally. 



No. 16. 

NO. 17 .-VANDYKE FINISHED WITHOUT 


No. 17. 
FRINGE. 






































































86 


KNITTING AND CROCHET. 



NOS. 18 AND IQ.-PICOT HEADING. 

Two strands are fastened on. Two or more 
Solomon knots are worked according to height 
of heading. No 19 shows picot heading with the 
cross-bar laid on and the picot threads knotted 
over it. 



No. 19. 


nos. 20, 21, 25, 26 and 27 .— specimens of old 


KNOTTED LACE. 



No. 20. 

NO. 22.-CROSS-BAR WORKED OVER WITH 


No. 21. 

SOLOMON KNOTS. 







Two strands of the length for the work must be pinned 
through the middle for the bar; two working threads are 
required (they must be three times the length of bar), 
with these cover the bar with Solomon knots, then draw 
strands through each of two loops, pass over two and re¬ 
peat. Work each group with four Solomon knots. 


No. 22. 

no . 23 .-CROSS-KNOT FOR OPEN DIAMONDS. 

This knot shows well in coarse material only. Begin with two Solomon knots, 
as shown on right-hand side; the center and left strands show two finished cross¬ 
knots and the figures the mode of dividing the strands to form open diamonds. 
After'working the two Solomon knots cross the right-hand thread under the two 
center threads. The left-hand thread over the three strands, then pass it at the 









































































































































KNITTING AND CROCHET. 


87 


back through to the front between the top of the first ana second strands, and 
work the right-hand thread in the same way through top of third and fourth 



No. 23. No. 24. 


strands. Now cross the outer strands, slanting over the front of the knot, and pass 
them through the loop below the knot on each side. Commence again, as shown 
in lower part of design. 



No. 25. 


No. 26. 

























































































































































































88 


KNITTING AND CROCHET. 



No. 27. 

NO. 28-tf.- FRINGE. 


After learning the macrame knot, slanting ribs, and laying on of heading, 
this fringe may be tried, as it is an easy pattern. Yard-long threads will be needed 
for it, and the mode of working every detail is given in Nos. 4 to 6, 8 and 9. 



The heading is like that shown in No. 5. The slanting ribs are like those 













































































































































































KNITTING AND CROCHET 


89. 

shown in Nos. 6, 8, 9 and 13, save that they are worked with eight instead of four 
strands. The double Solomon knots are worked as shown in detail of No. 2S -a. 
only with four instead of eight Solomon knots. 


NO. 28.- MACRAME FRINGE. 



No. 28. 


This design is worked with two colors; two double strands of the light color 
are knotted over the first leading bar, then four double strands of the dark color 
and two of the light; knot the single strands over the two next leading bars. The 
pattern consists entirely of slanting ribs The strands for the fringe may be left 
any length desired 

NO. 29. -MACRAME FRINGES. 


With the exception of the single leading bar, this design is worked entirely in 
slanting ribs. 



NO. 30. -MACRAME FRINGE. 

The macrame fringe, No. 30, is made of blue, brown and strawberry-colored 
cordonet silk, over a foundation of macrame twine. The silk pompons are knotted 
in, as shown in No. 3 cw* and b, and the tassels, which, like the silk pompons, ought 
to be in alternate colors, fixed over the ends of the working threads, in the manner 
indicated by the wood-cut. 



























































































9 o 


KNITTING AND CROCHET 


NO. 31 .-TASSEL FRINGE (MACRAME). 

The macrame fringe, No. 31, is knotted in a similar manner to the fringe No. 
30, only the colors of the cordonet silk are different—olive-green, dark red and 
heliotrope. The lines of the Vandykes are button-holed, and the tassels formed as 
in fringe No. 30. 



No. 30. 



No. 31 . 


NO. 32. -FRINGE OF TWO COLORS. 

This fringe is worked with twenty-four strands of one color, and eight of the 
other. They are put over a single leading bar, and knotted as shown in No. 4. A 
second bar is then laid on close to the first, and the strands are worked closely over 
it (see No. 5 in progress and finished). The slanting bars are shown in progress in 
Nos. 6 and 9. They are arranged to form a square at the top, and two bars worked 
closely with spaces, alternating for six times; then the second square. 

The work must be continued row by row. After beginning with the square of 




























































KNITTING AND CROCHET. 


9i 


bars of the dark color, work a line of six Solomon knots with the light color, then 
a second square of bars with the dark color; continue for the length of the cushion. 
For the second and following lines work the bars over the first and second outer 
strands of the light color, and then five Solomon knots with the light color. In 
this row the light color is worked once between the bars. 

With these few words of explanation, we refer the reader to the designs, from 
which it will be easier to work than from description. The raised circular balls, 
making the diamond in the center of the bar diamond, are worked with four Solomon 



No. 32. 

knots, after completing which, take the two center strands, pass them together be¬ 
tween the second and third strands at the top of the knot, and draw them down at 
the back, and work one Solomon knot. When the heading is worked, the threads 
must be strongly tied together at the bottom to form a loop in which to pass the 
tassel strands through, which are afterward bound round with thread and needle. 
The thread is wound evenly round five or six times, and the needle is passed from 
the top to the bottom to fasten it. 






































































































































































9 2 


KNITTING AND CROCHET. 


CROCHET. 


This pretty and useful fancy work first became fashionable about the year 
1838, although it was practiced in nunneries as early as the sixteenth century. The 
stitch is so simple that anyone can learn to work it; it requires less care and atten¬ 
tion in counting than knitting, and can be more easily taken out if wrong. At the 
same time, the finer kinds, such as Irish point, raised rose and Honiton crochet 
are almost as beautiful as lace, and demand much skill and patience. 

Crochet can be worked with nearly all thread materials. All sorts of Berlin 
and fleecy wools, worsteds, knitting silks, linen thread, crochet and sewing cottons, 
gold and silver cords, chenilles, ornamental braids, arrasene, etc., may be used for 
it. Warm petticoats, afghans, mufflers, etc., are best made in double or single 
wool, Berlin, or Germantown, or worsted; light shawls, fascinators, etc., in Shet¬ 
land or split zephyr. Wash trimmings for underclothes, table scarfs, etc., should 
be worked with linen thread, or coarse sewing cotton; counterpanes, table mats, 
etc., in crochet cotton. 

Several of the articles here illustrated, and for which directions are given, are 
to be carried out in knitting arrasene, which is a lighter kind than that used for 
embroidery. It is beautifully soft and lustrous, easy and pleasant to work. Among 
the many articles for which it is adapted, the examples here given will well repay 
any one working them. Evening wraps, hoods, shawls, and babies’ frocks and 
pelisses are most rich in effect. It will clean well, and, in fact, can be washed in 
warm rain-water, first of all making a lather of soap, moving the article rapidly 
backward and forward in the lather. Then rinse the article through cold water, 
taking great care not to squeeze or rub it; hang it out to dry in its dripping state, 
giving it an occasional shake; or, if more convenient, it can be dried before a fire. 
It is necessary to lay some stress upon the fact that knitting arrasene is different 
from embroidery arrasene, because the retailers have not yet thoroughly grasped 
this fact, and are in many cases under the impression that it is the same article. Any 
one who handles the two kinds will at once see the difference. In ordering, there¬ 
fore, this should be borne in mind. It should be stated that knitting arrasene is 
made in wool also, and washes, if the same care is taken. It is made only in a few 
colors at present. 

The fundamental stitch in crochet is the chain stitch, all other stitches are 
modifications of it. It is the stitch most used for the foundation, or first row, of a 
piece of work. 

NO. I.-CHAIN STITCH. 

Make a slip-knot, and pass it over 
the hook, put the the thread over the 
hook; by a slight movement of the 
hands, draw the thread that is over the 
hook through the slip-loop. 



No. 1—Chain. 





KNITTING AND CROCHET. 

NO. 2.-DOUBLE FOUNDATION. 

Work a chain as described for last stitch, break off the 
thread when the chain is the length required, make a slip- 
loop, pass it over the hook, insert the hook into the first 
chain stitch, taking up both loops, draw through the stitch 
worked into and the loop on the hook together. 

NO. 3. DOUBLE FOUNDATION WITH 
ONE THREAD. 

Make a slip-loop, pass it over the 
nook, one chain, draw up a loop 
through the slip-loop, draw through 
both loops on the hook, *, draw up a 
loop through the left loop, draw 
through both loops together Re¬ 
peat from * 

No. 4. -DOUBLE FOUNDATION WORKED WITH TWO THREADS. 

Make a slip knot, and pass it over the hook, make 
another slip knot on a second length of thread, pass it 
over the hook, draw through both loops with the left-hand 
thread; work one chain with the right-hand thread and 
one with the left alternately; the alternate threads must 
be tightened after each stitch. 

NO. 5. -SINGLE CROCHET. 

Put the hook through the first stitch, draw the 
thread through the stitch worked into, and the 
loop on the hook together. 

NO. 6.-DOUBLE CROCHET. 

Put the hook through a stitch of 
foundation, twist the thread over the 
hook, draw through the foundation, 
then draw through both loops on the 


NO. 7. -HALF TREBLE. 

Turn the thread over the hook, pass the 
hook through a stitch of foundation, draw 
through, turn the thread again over the hook, 
and draw through all three loops on the hook 
together. This stitch is sometimes called Ions' 
double stitch. 

NO. 8.-SLIP STITCH. 

Put the hook through the foundation at the back part, and draw the cotton 
back with it through the loop already on the hook. 






hook together. 



No. 


-Half tleble. 



No. 6 —Double crochet. 





93 
















94 


KNITTING AND CROCHET. 


NO. 9. -TREBLE (OR LONG CROCHET). 

Put the thread once over the hook, insert the 
hook into the foundation, draw a loop through 
the foundation; you will then have three loops 
on the hook; turn the thread again over the hook, 
draw through two loops, turn the thread again 
over the hook, and draw through the two next 
loops together. 

No. 9—Treble. 

NO. IO.-PICOT, OR PURL. 

Make a chain of four or six stitches, according to the thickness of the cotton; 
put the hook back and through the first chain, and draw the cotton through that 
and through the loop upon the hook at once, so that the stitches between them are 
formed into a round or knob. 




NO. II.-DOUBLE TREBLE. 

Put the thread twice over the hook; insert 
tne hook into the foundation, turn the thread 
over the hook, draw through the foundation, 
turn the thread over the hook, draw through 
two loops, turn the thread over the hook a sec¬ 
ond time, and draw through two loops, turn the 
thread a third time over the hook, and draw 
through the two last loops on the hook. 


No. 11— Double treble. 

NO. 12.-AFGHAN, OR TRICOT STITCH. 

Also called Railway, Fools, and Idiot’s stitch, and Tunisian crochet. The 
hook must be long enough, for this work, to take 
all the stitches on at one time. For large pieces 
of work, make them in strips, and sew or crochet 
together. Make a foundation chain of the neces¬ 
sary length, with one chain over for the second 
row. Put the hook through the second founda¬ 
tion chain, and make a stitch; leave it on the 
hook, pick up the third foundation chain, make a 
stitch, and leave on the hook, continue thus till 
all the foundation stitches are picked up, made, 
and on the hook. 

Third row.—Wool over the hook, which draw through two loops, wool over 
and draw through the next two, and so on to the end of the row. 

Fourth row.—A number of long upright loops will now be seen upon the work. 
Put the hook through the first of these, and make a stitch; leave it on the hook and 
continue to pick up loops, make them, and keep them on the hook to the end of 
the row. The rest of the work consists of third and fourth row alternately. Be 
careful to count the number of stitches on the hook from time to time, as the end 
loop appears to lie somewhat at the back of the work, and is often overlooked. 














KNITTING AND CROCHET. 


95 


The work can be narrowed at any place by looping two stitches together, or in¬ 
creased by a stitch made at the end. 

NO. 13.- TRICOT AND TREBLE. 

First and second rows.—Plain tricot. (See above.) 
Third row.—Work up one loop, *, work one treble 
into the first row, work up four loops; repeat from * to 
the end of the row; work off in the usual way. 

Fourth row.—Plain tricot. 

Fifth row.—Work up three loops, *, one treble into 
the third row, work up four loops; repeat from * to 
the end of the row; work off in the usual way. 

Sixth row.—Plain tricot; repeat from the third row. 

NO. 14. -CROSS TREBLE. 

Turn the thread twice around the hook, insert the hook into the stitch, turn 
the thread over the hook, draw 
through the stitch, turn the thread 
over the hook, draw through two 
loops together, turn the thread over 
the hook, pass over two stitches, in¬ 
sert the hook into the next stitch, 
draw through, pass the thread over 
the hook, draw through two loops, 
pass the thread over the hook, draw 
through two loops, pass the thread 
over the hook, draw through all 
the loops on the hook together, 
two chain, one treble into center of 
cross treble; repeat from the beginning. 

NO. 15.- FANCY TRICOT STITCH. 

Make a foundation chain the width required, and take up all the stitches, and 
work them off one by one for first row as in tricot. 

Second row.—*, Thread round hook, pick up two stitches together; repeat to 
end of row from * until the last stitch, which pick up singly; work back, making a 
separate stitch of each one in last row. 

Third row.—Thread round hook, do not work the first loop of last row, so as 
to keep the edge of the work smooth, *, pick up next two long loops, thread round 
hook; repeat from *, work the last loop by itself, and, making a loop before it, re¬ 
turn back as before. The work on the wrong side looks like treble crochet. 

NO. 16. -TRICOT STITCH CROSS. 

This stitch, worked with a fine bone hook, and in single wool, is a close, useful 
one for comforters and mufflers, and with a large hook and fleecy wool, makes 
good couvrepieds, or cross-over shawls. 

Make a foundation chain of the width required and work a row of tricot, 
which take back in the usual manner. 

Second row.—Work the edge stitch plain (which means, retain the loop of the 
last stitch of the previous row on the hook; do not work it, but count it as the first 
stitch on the new row), then take out hook and draw the second upright loop 



No. 14 —Cross treble. 



No. 13 —Tricot and treble. 






9 6 


KNITTING AND CROCHET. 


through the first; work this second loop and retain on hook, and then the first 
loop, and retain that also, continue to the end of row, working the last stitch 
like the edge stitch plain; return back as in tricot. In the next row, the cross 
stitches will not come over the ones below them, but will be altered in position. 
Work the first loop on the row without crossing it, and turning the next loop to it 
over the first loop of the second cross, thus working together the two stitches 
away from each other, instead of the two close together. These two lines consti¬ 
tute the whole of the work. 


NO 17 .-OPEN TRICOT. 

A fancy arrangement of tricot so that an open stitch is formed. Work with 
fine Shetland wool and with a wooden tricot hook as large as can be used with the 
wool. 

First row.—Make a foundation chain, and work the second and third rows as 
as in tricot. 

Fourth row.—Put the hook in between the two perpendicular threads that look 

like a plain knitting stitch, and push it 
through to the back of the work under 
the straight chain, draw the wool 
through, and make a loop, which keep 
on the hook, and repeat to the end of 
the row. 

Fifth row.—Like the return row of 
tricot. 

Sixth row.—As the fourth. 

The work should look as shown in 
the illustration, like a number of open 
loops with a horizontal chain as a foun¬ 
dation. If the wool used is very fine, stretch the work out, when finished, on a 
board, wet it, and press it with a warm iron, protecting it from the iron with a 
handkerchief. This will draw the work into its right position. 

NO. l 8 .-MUSCOVITE TRICOT. 



No. 17— Tricot open stitch. 


First row.—Work up the loops as for ordinary 
tricot; work off the first loop, *, three chain ; work off 
the two next loops; repeat from * to end of row. 

Second row.—Work up the loops like last row, *, 
three chain, work off two loops; repeat from* to the end 
of row. These two rows are repeated alternately. ~ 

NO. 19 .-TRICOT STITCH-ECOSSAIS. 

Commence by making a foundation chain of eleven 
stitches, keep the loop on the hook, the wool being at 
the back of it; bring the wool over the hook to the front, 
and leave it at the back; put the hook into the last chain stitch but one, and bring 
the wool through in a loop. There will now be three loops on the hook; put the 
hook into the next chain stitch, bring the wool through in a loop, put the hook into 
the next chain, and bring the wool through. There will now be five loops on the 
hook. Hold the second of these five loops with the finger and thumb of the left 
hand, turn it over the other three loops at the back, and raise three loops from the 
three upright stitches of those which appear tied together. Then turn the loop 



No. 18— Muscovite tricot. 














KNITTING AND CROCHET. 


97 


made on the hook over these three loop; repeat from the commencement of the 
row twice more, and at the end put the hook into the last stitch and raise one 
loop. Work back as in the first row; repeat the second row until the length is 
made. 

NO. 20.-FANCY TRICOT STITCH. 

Useful for petticoats, being thick and close. Use a bone crochet needle and 
Berlin or Germantown wool. 

Make a foundation chain eight inches long, take up all the loops as in tricot 
and work back. 

Second row. Take up the chain between the first and second perpendicular 
loops, draw the wool through, put the hook through the second long loop into the 
third loop; and draw the third loop through the second, which crosses them, then 
draw the wool through the third loop, which is now on the hook, * take up the 
next chain after the third loop; then cross the two next long loops, and draw the 
wool through the last; repeat to the end of the row; work back in tricot. 

Third row.—Tricot. 

Fourth row.—Like the second. Continue these two rows to the end of the work. 

NO. 2 1.-SHELL PATTERN CROCHET. 

Make a chain the length required, draw 
up a loop through each of five successive 
stitches, draw through all the loops on 
the hook, close the cluster with one chain, 
*, draw up a loop under the last chain, 
another through the back perpendicular loop 
of last stitch, and one through each of two 
next stitches, draw through all the loops on 
the hook together, close with one chain; re¬ 
peat from * to the required size. 

For the edge :— 

First row.—One double into every stitch. 
Second row.—One double into a stitch, *, 
pass over two stitches, eight trebles under 
next stitch; repeat from * 

Third row.—One double into each stitch. 

Foundation is begun and worked as 
directions given for plain tricot. 

First row.—Wool over hook, insert the 
hook through space between the upright 
stitches into the little bar at the top; draw 
wool through; wool over hook and draw 
through two loops; leave other loops on 
hook. This corresponds to the raised loop 
in plain tricot, or Afghan stitch; repeat to 
end of row. Finish by raising the last 
loop plain. Work back as usual. Every 
succeeding row is worked like the first row. 




No. 22 —Fancy tricot. 






9 8 


KNITTING AND CROCHET 


NO. 23.-POINT DE TRICOT STITCH. 

This is a pretty open stitch, with an effect as of knots. Make a foundation 
chain of the required width. 

First row.—Wool round the hook, pass the hook through the third chain and 
draw the wool through, leave it on the hook, wool round the hook and again into 
the same third chain, draw the wool through, wool round the hook and pass 
through the first two loops on the hook, then round and through three loops on 
the hook; there will now be two loops left on the hook, *, wool round the hook, 
and pass it through second chain from last on the foundation, draw the wool 
through, and leave it on the hook, wool round, and again pass the hook through 
the second chain and draw the wool through, wool round and through the first 
two loops on the hook, wool round and through the next three, leave three loops 
on the hook; repeat from * to the end of the row, always increasing the stitches 
left on the hook; work the last stitch by putting the wool through and drawing it 
up to the length of the rest. 

Second row.—Work back, wool through the first loop, *, one chain, wool 
round and through the loop of chain and one on the hook; repeat from * to end of 
row. 

Third row.—One chain, *, wool round the hook, put the hook through the 
long loop and through a horizontal thread that will be seen between the stitches 
of the last row beneath the line made in working back, draw the wool at once 
through these two loops, wool round the hook, and this time put into the 
horizontal thread, only putting the hook under and through it, not over it, draw 
the wool through, then wool round the hook and through the first two loops on 
the hook, wool round the hook and through the next three loops; and leave two on 
the hook; repeat from * to the end of the row, always having after each stitch a 
fresh loop on the hook; repeat second and third rows throughout the work. 


NO. 24.—BASKET PATTERN TRICOT. 


Make a chain the length required. 

First row.—Work up a loop through the first stitch, work one chain 

through the loop; repeat until all the loops are worked 
up. In working off, work through a loop, slip each 
alternate loop off the hook, work three chain between 
the loops worked through. 

Second row.—Pass the slipped-off loop at the back 
of the chain, draw up a loop through it, then work one 
chain through the loop, draw up a loop through the 
next loop, and under the chain, work one chain through 
the loop. Repeat from the beginning of the row until 
all the loops are worked up; the loops are worked off 
as described for the first row.. 

The second row is repeated throughout. 

N. B.—Working up and off is reckoned as one row in tricot. 

NO. 25.-FANCY TRICOT. 



No. 24 — Basket pattern: tricot. 


Foundation is begun same as plain tricot, except in working back draw wool 
through the first stitch, then (*) make one chain; wool over hook and draw through 
three at once. Repeat from *; at the end of the row, make one chain and draw 
through two. 






KNITTING AND CROCHET. 


99 



No. 25 —Fancy tricct. 

Second row.—The vertical loops consist of groups of twos now. First, raise 
the second of the first group. Now go over and raise the first of the same group. 
This will make the stitches cross each other when they are worked off. Raise all 
groups in a like manner. Work back as in the first 
row. Repeat second row as often as you wish pat¬ 
tern. 

NO. 26. -FANCY TRICOT. 

This pattern is rather open, and very pretty for 
shawls, clouds, etc. Make a chain of desired length. 

First row.—Raise a loop; wool over hook from 
front to back (reverse of the general way of putting 
wool over hook), raise another loop through next 
stitch; draw through all three loops together; repeat 
so across. Work off the loops on hook in usual way, 
with this exception, that a chain stitch must be 
worked between each loop. 

Second row.—Raise a loop through the two 
slanting loops at the top of group, turn wool in 
front of hook, raise a loop through next chain of last row; draw through all loops 
together, close the group with one chain. Repeat from the beginning of row. 
Work loops off of hook as described for first row. Second row repeat as often as 
you wish pattern. 

NO. 27. -FANCY TRICOT. 



No. 26 — Fancy tricot. 


Make a chain of desired length. 

First row.—Wool over hook, insert hook into chain, raise a loop. Repeat, 

keeping all the stitches on the 
hook ; coming back, draw 
through two loops together 
one chain between; repeat 
across. 

Second row.—Draw up a 
loop through two loops to¬ 
gether ; raise loop from chain 
stitch, then make one chain; 
repeat. 

In working loops off of 



No. 27—Fancy tricot. 




















IOO 


KNITTING AND CROCHET. 


hook (*) draw through two loops together; make one chain. Repeat from*. Sec¬ 
ond row is repeated as often as pattern is wished. 

NO. 28.-SPOT STITCH, RAISED. 


This stitch is useful for large pieces of work, such as counterpanes, afghans, 
etc. ; and is generally worked in strips of various colors, and sewed together when 
finished, as the return double crochet row allows of this. Berlin or fleecy wool 

required. It is formed with a 
foundation of double crochet, up¬ 
on which dots made with treble 
crochet are worked, and so raised. 
Work two rows of double crochet, 
and for third row commence with 
two double crochet, *, put the cot¬ 
ton round the hook, and insert 
into the third stitch of the first 
row, passing over the second row; 
take up the cotton and work a 
treble up to where two loops are 
left on the hook; work two more 
trebles into the same stitch up to the same length, take the cotton onto the hook, 
and draw it through the four loops, leave the stitch of the preceding row under 
the spot unworked, work five double crochet; and repeat from *. 

Fourth row.—A row of double crochet. 

Fifth row.—Work seven double crochet, and then commence the raised spot 
so that it mav not come under that last worked. 



No. 28 — Raised spot stitch. 


NO. 29.-SPOT STITCH, HOLLOW. 

V A stitch made with a foundation of double crochet with spots upon it in treble 
crochet. Commence with a foundation chain of length required, upon which work 
a straight row of double crochet. 

First row.—Work five double crochet stitches, insert the hook into the bottom 
front part of the stitch of the preceding row, and work four trebles without touch¬ 
ing the loop on the hook left from the double crochet, always putting the hook 
into the same stitch in preceding row. For the fifth treble put it into the same 
stitch as preceding four, then take up the cotton and work off the three loops on 
hook as in treble crochet. Work five doubles, missing the stitch of preceding row 
under the spot. The second row will have the spots so as to come alternately 
with the ones first worked. Must be worked all on right side, each row being 
fastened off, the next commenced at the opposite end. 


NO. 30.-JOSEPHINE TRICOT STITCH. 

This stitch is used for shawls, etc. Commence by making a chain of the full 
length as a foundation. 

First row.—Insert the hook in the fourth chain stitch, draw a loop through it, 
draw another loop through the newly formed stitch, which loop must be retained on 
the hook; repeat this once more in the same stitch, insert the hook again in the 
stitch, and draw a loop through. There will now be three loops on the hook as well 
as the loop which was there at the beginning. Draw a loop through the three 
loops, and let that loop remain on the hook; repeat in every stitch of the row. 

Second row.—Work off as in ordinary tricot. 





KNITTING AND CROCHET. 


IOI 


Third row. Make two chain stitches, work in the same way as for the first row, 
with the exception of working under instead of into the stitches. Work off as 
the second row; continue to repeat the third row and second row until the work 
is the length required. Only work the two chain stitches at the commencement of 
the rows to make them even. 


NO. 31. -RING STITCH. 

This stitch is very pretty for shawls, fascinators, etc. It should be worked 

with a large crochet hook and split zephyr, or other 
fine wool. 

Make a row of chain stitches for foundation. 
Count the thread on crochet needle for first stitch, 
then pick up two stitches, cast thread over, and 
pick up one more, making five stitches on the 
needle, draw the thread through and make one 
chain stitch. This constitutes one ring or circlet, 
i. e., the ring stitch. The thread on the needle is 
counted as the first stitch again, then draw through 
the loop, pick up the back stitch, then the stitch 
next to it, cast thread over and pick up another 
stitch, this time you have six stitches on the needle, 
now draw through, and continue as in the first 
ring. 

The first ring on each row has but five stitches, 
the others have six always. 

The second row is worked like the first, except 
that when you have four stitches on the needle, 
you cast thread over and pick up the next ring 
stitch. 

In making a square design, work fully to each 
end of row. For a three-cornered pattern, leave the last stitch and turn to next 
row, or else break off the thread and fasten off, if you wish to have a right and 
wrong side. 

NO. 32.- CROCHET LACE. 

This beautiful pattern would be very effective, worked in black silk, or, for 
wash goods, Barbour’s linen thread, Nos. 50 or 70. 

A particular kind of purl makes this border look very 
like guipure lace. Begin with a foundation chain worked 
in the following manner: *, three chain, the last of them 
forms one purl; this is made by drawing out a long loop 
on the needle, taking the needle out of the loop, insert¬ 
ing it in the chain stitch before the last one, drawing the 
cotton through it, and continuing to work so that the 
loop out of which the needle has been drawn forms one 
purl. All the purl must be equally long; to do this more 
easily the loop may be kept on the needle till the chain 
stitch has been worked in that which comes just before 
the purl, continue the foundation chain, and repeat 
from *. 



No. 32 — Ring stitch. 



No. 32 —CROCHET LACE. 










102 


KNITTING AND CROCHET 


First row._One half treble in the first stitch of the foundation, *, one chain, 

one slip-stitch in the nearest purl of the foundation chain; repeat from . 

“ Second row —One double in the first stitch, *, one purl, one chain, missing 
one stitch under it; one slip-stitch in the slip-stitch of the preceding row; repeat 

from *. 

Third row.—Like the first. 

Fourth row.—One double in the first stitch, *, one purl, five chain, one purl, one 
chain, missing five stitches under them; one double in the sixth stitch; repeat 

from *. , • i 

Fifth row.— One half treble in the first stitch, three chain, one purl, one 

chain, *, one double in the middle of the next five chain of the preceding row, one 

purl, five chain, one purl, one chain; repeat from * 

Sixth to ninth rows.— Alternately like the fourth and fifth rows. 

Tenth row.—One double in the first stitch, *, six chain, one double long 
treble (throw the cotton three times round the needle) in the first of these chain 
stitches; the stitch is only completed so far as still to leave two loops on the 
needle; one double long treble in the same chain stitch. This stitch is cast off so 
as to leave in all three loops, and the cotton over the needle; these loops are cast 
off together by drawing the cotton once through them. This forms one leaf, or 
one-half of the bell-shaped pattern; three purl, one chain, one leaf like the pre¬ 
ceding one, (only reversed by making the double long trebles first and the six 
chain last), one slip-stitch in the first of the first six chain stitches; the other half 
of the pattern is then completed; one purl, five chain, one purl, one chain, one 
double in the middle stitch of the next scallop of the preceding row, one purl, five 
chain, one purl, one chain, one double in the middle stitch of the following 

scallop. , r . ,. 

Eleventh row.—One slip-stitch in the next purl of the preceding row, one 

purl two chain, one slip-stitch in the next purl of the preceding row, one purl, 

two’chain, one slip-stitch in the following purl, one purl (the three purl which are 

worked on the three purl of the bell-shaped pattern are made in this row, and in 

the following one as follows: Crochet one chain after the slip-stitch, leave it for 

one purl, and work the next chain stitch in the slip-stitch), five chain, one purl, one 

chain, one double in the middle stitch of the following scallop, one purl, three 

chain, one purl, one chain. 

Twelfth row.—Three purl on the next three purl of the preceding row, three 
chain between, one purl, three chain, one purl, one chain, one double in the middle 
stitch of the next five chain stitches, one bell-shaped pattern like those of the 
tenth row, one purl, three chain, one purl, one chain. 

NO 23.-CROCHET TRIMMING FOR A LADY’S CHEMISE. 

Materials: Linen thread or cotton, and fine steel hook. 

This pattern, as can be seen in No. 33, is an imitation of old guipure lace; it 
is worked all in one piece for the bosom and and sleeves, and is part of one of the 
shoulder-pieces in full size. Both strips of rosettes join at that place, and one is 
continued for the part round the bosom and the other for the sleeve. In the 
pattern there are forty-two rosettes round the bosom, and fourteen round each 
sleeve. These rosettes are fastened one to another in the course of the worts.. 

They are made in the following manner :— 

Make a chain of six stitches, and join it into a ring. 

First round—Eight chain, one slip-stitch in the fourth chain, which forms a 


KNITTING AND CROCHET. 


103 


purl (the three first chain are reckoned as one treble), one chain, one treble in the 
ring, *, five chain, one slip-stitch in the first to form a purl, one chain, one treble 
in the ring; repeat six times from *. Instead of the last treble, work a slip-stitch 
to fasten the end of the round to the three chain of the beginning, which thus form 
one treble. 

Second round.—Nine chain (the first three to be reckoned as one treble), *, 
one treble on the first treble of last round, six chain; repeat six times from *. One 
slip-stitch in the treble at the beginning. 

Third round.—On each scallop of preceding round work two double, 



one purl, two double, one purl, two double, one purl, two double. This 
completes the rosette. Each rosette is fastened to the last by joining 
the two middle purl of both. In the illustration, which is full-size, the 
purl that are to be joined to those of another rosette are marked by a 
cross. The joining between the part round the bosom and the sleeve is made 
in the same manner. The space left between four rosettes is filled up with 
a star formed of chain stitches, marked in our illustration with an asterisk. For 
this star *, make a chain of five stitches, the first of which forms the center; slip 
the loop you have on the needle through one of the eight purl that are free, make 
five chain, one double in the center stitch; repeat seven times from *; then tie the 
















104 


KNITTING AND CROCHET. 


two ends tightly, or sew them together. Three of these stars are required for each 
shoulder. 

For the Border .—It is worked at the same time both round the bosom and 
sleeves. 

First round—*, One double in the center purl of the first scallop of the 
rosette, which we will call the first rosette; five chain, one double in the center purl 
of the second scallop of the same rosette, four chain; then work the kind of cross 
which comes between each rosette (see illustration). To make this cross throw 
the cotton three times round the needle, work one double treble in the last purl 
left free of the first rosette, keep the last loop on the needle, i. e., leave three loops 
on in all, throw the cotton twice round it, and work a double treble in the first 
purl left free in the second rosette, throw the thread twice round the needle, work 
one treble with the loop left on the needle, make two chain and work one treble in 
the last double treble, which completes the cross, make four chain; repeat from * 
at each slit on the shoulders; after the last cross make six chain, one slip-stitch in 
the two purl at the end of the slit, six chain to come to the next space, where a 
cross is to be made. 

Second round.—Work alternately one treble, two chain, miss two; at the slit on 
the shoulders work six double over the six chain. 

The two rounds just explained are also worked round the upper edge, and 
finished round the sleeves by the following round: one double in one of the spaces 
in the last round, *, six chain, one double in the second of the six chain, which 
forms a purl, one chain, one double on the next but one of the last round, six 
chain, one double in the second of the six chain, one chain, one double in the next 
space; repeat from *. On the upper edge of the bosom, between the first and 
second rounds of the border, work one round of crosses, but throwing the cotton 
twice only round the needle, so that the treble stitches are not double; make two 
chain between each cross. 

NO. 34.-INSERTION : CROCHET AND MIGNARDISE, OR FEATHER-EDGE BRAID. 

First row.—One double into two picots of mignar- 
dise together, one chain, one double into the two next 
picots of mignardise, one chain, four roll picots each 
separated by one chain into the two next picots to¬ 
gether, one chain; repeat. A roll picot is worked 
thus: Turn the cotton six times round the hook, insert 
the hook in the picot directed, draw up a loop, then 
draw through all the loops on the hook together. 

Second row.—One treble separated by two chain 
under each of the one chain of last row over the roll 
picots, pass over the one chain between the two 
single, and repeat from the beginning of the row. 

Third row.—One double under every stitch of last 
row. The other side is worked the same way. 



No. 34— Insertion: crochet and 

MIGNARDISE. 


NO. 35 --RAISED DOUBLE STITCH. 

This is a variety of double crochet. Work the first row with double crochet, 
and for the rest of the pattern work double crochet, but instead of putting the 
hook through the top part of the loop of the preceding row, as in ordinary crochet, 
put it over the whole of the loop and into the middle part of the stitch under it in 
the preceding row. 










KNITTING AND CROCHET. 


lo 5 



No. 36 —Crochet border. 


NO. 36. -CROCHET BORDER. 

This makes a very pretty trimming for underclothes, worked in Barbour’s 
linen thread, No. 50 or 70, with a fine steel crochet hook, or it may be worked in 
coarser thread or cotton, for a variety of purposes. 

On a sufficiently long foundation chain make the first row: one double in each 
chain stitch. • 

Second row.—Alternately one double, seven chain, miss under the latter three 
stitches of the preceding row. 

Third row.—One treble in each double of the preceding row, one double in the 
middle stitch of each scallop, two chain between. 

Fourth row.—One double on each double of the preceding row, one treble on 
each treble, three chain between. 

Fifth row.—One double on each treble of the 
preceding row, three chain between. 

Sixth row.—One double in each stitch of the 
preceding row. 

Seventh row.—*, One treble in the first stitch 
of the preceding row, four chain, miss one, three 
treble in the following three stitches, miss three 
stitches, three treble in the following three stitches, 
four chain, miss one stitch, one treble, three chain, 
miss four; repeat from *. 

Eighth row.—Repeat regularly eight treble in the scallop formed of four 
chain in the preceding row, one double in the middle of the following three chain. 

Ninth row.—*, One double in the fourth treble of the preceding row, two 
treble, one double treble in next treble but two, two double treble in each of the 
two following treble, one double treble, two treble in the next treble, one double 
in the next treble but two, three chain, one purl (four chain, one slip), three chain 
stitch; repeat from *. 

Tenth row. , One double in the fourth treble of the preceding row, two chain 
one purl, two chain, miss two under them, one double, two chain, one purl, two 
chain, one double in the next chain but one of the next scallop, two chain, one 
purl, two chain, one double in the two chain stitch after the purl of the preceding 
row, two chain, one purl, two chain; repeat from *. 

Eleventh row.—In each scallop of the preceding row two double (they must 
meet on either side of the purl); they are divided alternately by five chain, and by 
a scallop formed of two chain, one purl, and two chain, only in the chain stitch 
scallops, which join the two treble figures work no double, but two chain, one 
purl, two chain. 

NO. 37 - -CROCHET INSERTION. 

Make a chain of the length required. 

First row.—One treble into a stitch, two chain, pass over two stitches, and 
repeat. 

Second row.—Twelve chain, *, one treble into a stitch, one chain, pass over 
one stitch; repeat from * fifteen times more, twenty-three chain, pass over twenty- 
three stitches, one treble into each of twenty-four stitches, twenty-three chain, pass 
over twenty-three stitches; repeat from the first *. 

Third row.—Nine chain, *, one treble into ninth of twelve chain, one chain, 
pass over one stitch; repeat from * eighteen times more, eighteen chain, pass over 










io6 


KNITTING AND CROCHET. 


eighteen chain, one treble into each of twenty-nine stitches, eighteen chain; repeat 
from first *. 

Fourth row.—Seven chain, *, twenty-two trebles, each separated by one chain 
over the trebles of last row, twelve chain, pass over twelve stitches, thirty-five 
trebles over the trebles of last row, twelve chain, pass over twelve stitches, and 
repeat from *. 

Fifth row.—Four chain, twenty-five trebles, each separated by one chain 
over the twenty-two trebles of last row, eight chain, pass over eight stitches, forty- 
one trebles over the thirty-five trebles of last row, eight chain; repeat from * to 
the end of the row. 

Sixth row.—One treble into first chain of last row, *, one chain, pass over one 
stitch; repeat from * six times more, nine chain, pass over nine stitches, one treble 
into each of three next stitches, nine chain, pass over nine stitches, one treble 
separated by one chain into each of eight alternate stitches, three chain, pass over 
three stitches, one treble into each of thirteen next successive stitches, nine chain, 
pass over nine stitches, one treble into each of three next stitches, nine chain, pass 



No. 37—Insertion; crochet. 


over nine stitches, one treble into each of thirteen next stitches, three chain, pass 
over three stitches, and repeat from the beginning of the row. 

Seventh row.—Seven trebles, each separated by one chain between the trebles 
of last row, nine chain, pass over nine stitches, three trebles into next three succes¬ 
sive stitches, one chain, pass over one stitch, one treble into the next, one chain, 
pass over one stitch, three treble into three next stitches, nine chain, pass over 
nine stitches, seven trebles, each separated by one chain between the eight trebles 
of last row, one chain, pass over one stitch, one treble into each of twelve next 
stitches, nine chain, pass over nine stitches, one treble into each of three next 
stitches, one chain, pass over one stitch, one treble into the next, one chain, pass 
over one stitch, one treble into each of three next stitches, nine chain, pass over 
nine stitches, one treble into each of twelve next stitches; repeat from the begin¬ 
ning of the row. 

Eighth row.—One treble into each of three stitches, one chain, pass over one 
stitch, three trebles, each separated by one chain into three next alternate stitches, 
*, seven chain, pass over seven stitches, one treble into each of three next stitches; 
repeat from * twice more, seven chain, pass over seven stitches, one treble into each 
of seven alternate stitches, one chain, pass over one stitch, one treble into each of 
seven stitches, *, seven chain, pass over seven stitches, one treble into each of three 


























































KNITTING AND CROCHET. 


107 


next stitches; repeat from * twice more, seven chain, pass over seven stitches, one 
treble into each of ten next successive stitches; repeat from beginning of row. 

Ninth row.—One treble into each of seven stitches, seven chain, pass over 
seven stitches, one treble into each of three stitches, one chain, pass over one 
stitch, one treble into the next, one chain, passover one stitch, one treble into each 
of three next stitches, eleven chain, pass over eleven stitches, one treble into each 
of three next stitches, one chain, pass over one stitch, one treble into the next, one 
chain, pass over one stitch, one treble into each of three next stitches, seven chain, 
pass over seven stitches, one treble into each of three next stitches, one chain, pass 
over one stitch, six trebles, each separated by one chain into the six next alternate 
stitches, seven chain, pass over seven stitches, one treble into each of three stitches, 
one chain, pass over one stitch, one treble into the next, one chain, pass over one 
stitch, one treble into each of three stitches, eleven chain, pass over eleven stitches, 
one treble into each of three stitches, one chain, pass over one stitch, one treble 
into the next, one chain, pass over one stitch, one treble into each of three next 
stitches, seven chain, pass over seven stitches, one treble into each of eight stitches; 
repeat from beginning of row. 

This is one row over the half, the other half is like the first, working from the 
eighth back to the first row, with the exception that the open treble part is worked 
over the close treble, and the close trebles over the open trebles. 

NO. 38. -CROCHET BORDER. 

Materials: Fine steel hook, and fine crochet cotton or linen thread. 

This border is suitable for a great variety of purposes, according to the size of 
the cotton employed; in coarse cotton it will 
make a trimming for couvrettes and berceau- 
nette cpvers; with fine cotton it can be used for 
children’s clothes, etc. 

Make a sufficiently long foundation chain, 
and work the first row: *, two treble divided by 
three chain in the first foundation chain stitch, 
miss three; repeat from *. 

Second row.—*, In the first scallop of the 
preceding row, one double, five treble, one doub¬ 
le, then one chain, one purl (four chain, one slip- 
stitch in the first of the four), one chain, miss 
under these the next chain stitch scallop; repeat 
from * 

Third row.—One treble in the chain stitch on 
preceding row, with one chain between these trebles; five chain. 

Fourth row.—*, Two double divided by seven chain in the two first treble of 
the preceding row (insert the needle underneath the upper parts of the stitch), ten 
chain, one slip-stitch in the fifth of these ten stitches so as to form a loop, four 
chain; repeat from *. 

Fifth row.—*, One slip in the middle stitch of the scallop formed by seven 
chain in the preceding row, four treble, three chain, five treble, three chain, four 
treble; all these thirteen stitches in the loops of the preceding row, so as to form 
a clover-leaf pattern; repeat from *, but fasten the fourth treble with a slip-stitch 
on the tenth treble of the preceding figure. 



No. 38 —Crochet border. 


either side of the purl in the 




io8 


KNITTING AND CROCHET. 


Sixth row.—In the first and last stitch of the five middle trebles of the clover 
leaf, one double, seven chain between. 

Seventh row.—One double in the second chain stitch of the scallop which is 
above the five middle treble of the clover leaf, two chain, one purl (five chain, one 
slip-stitch in the first), two chain, one double in the next chain stitch of the same 
scallop, two chain, one purl, two chain, miss one chain of the scallop, one double, 
two chain, one purl, two chain, one double in the next chain stitch, three chain, 
one double in the middle of the following scallop, three chain, repeat from *. 

NO. 39.-HAIR-PIN CROCHET. 

This work is made with either a large common hair-pin, or with a bone imita¬ 
tion. It may be done either with fine silk—when it 
makes lace-like trimmings, gimp headings, etc.—or 
with white crochet cotton, when it makes excellent 
washing edgings, as it is strong. 

To work: Hold the hair-pin in the left hand, the 
round part upward, twist the cotton around the left 
prong, pass it over the right prong to the back of the 
hair-pin and lay it over the left forefinger. Take a 
crochet hook and draw this back thread to the front, 
under the first crossed one, and make a chain by tak¬ 
ing up fresh cotton and pulling it through. Take the 
hook out, and turn the hairpin, *; the cotton will now 
be in front; put it over the right-hand pin to the back, 
hook into loop, and make a chain by drawing the cot¬ 
ton through, then put the hook through the twist on 
the left-hand prong, and make a chain having two 
stitches on the hook, make a stitch, drawing cotton 
through these two loops so that only one loop is left. 
No. 39— Hair-pin crochet. Take out the hook, turn the work, and repeat from *. 



no. 40. —trimming: crochet and hair-pin work. 

Make a piece of hair-pin work of the necessary length, according to directions 
in preceding article. 

For the edge of trimming: 

One single into a loop of hair-pin work, three chain, one single into the first, 
one chain, one single into each of fifteen loops 
of hair-pin work, three chain, one single into the 
first picot, one chain, one single into second of 
three chain, one chain, *, one double into, a loop 
of hair-pin work, five chain, one double into the 
second, one chain, repeat from * six times more, 
then repeat from beginning of the row. 

For the heading: 

First row.—One chain, one single, separated 
by one chain, into each of three loops of hair-pin 
work in the depth of a scallop, one single into 
each of nine loops, one single separated by one 
chain into each of three next loops, one chain, 

one single into first chain, fasten the cotton off securely, and work the same in the 
depth of each scallop. 



No. 40—Trimming: crochet and hair-pin work. 














KNITTING AND CROCHET. 


109 


Second row.—One triple treble under the chain in the depth of scallop, three 
chain, one double treble through the next two loops of hair-pin work together, 
thiee chain, one treble through two next loops together, three chain, one treble 
through two next loops together, three chain, one double treble through two next 
loops together, three chain; repeat from the beginning of the row. 

Third row. One treble separated by one chain into each alternate stitch of 
last row. 


no. 41.—infant’s bottine: tricot. 



Materials required : One 
and a half ounces of white An¬ 
dalusian wool, three skeins of 
pale blue single Berlin wool, a 
bone tricot hook, No. 16, Walk¬ 
er’s gauge, twenty-six small silk 
buttons, one yard of pale blue 
ribbon. 

Commence at the topof leg; 
make a chain of thirty-nine 
stitches. 

First row.—Work up and 
off in ordinary tricot. 

Second and third rows.— 
Work up the Ijack perpendicu¬ 
lar loop of each stitch, work off 
in the usu:d way. 

Fourth to eighth rows.— 
Plain tricot. 

Ninth row.—Work up the 
back perpendicular loop of each 
of seventeen stitches, work up 
the front loop of the five next 
stitches, then work up the back 
loop of the seventeen next 
stitches, work off in the usual 
way. 

Tenth to fourteenth rows.— 
Like the eighth row. 

Fifteenth to twentieth rows. 
—Like eighth row, but decrease 
by passing over the first and 
last stitches of each row. 

Twenty-first to twenty- 
fourth rows.—Like eighth row 
without decrease. 

Twenty-fifth to thirty-third 
rows.—Increase by working up 
two loops through the stitch be¬ 
fore the plain tricot front and 
the stitch after it. 


No. 41 —Infant’s bottine: tricot. 


















I IO 


KNITTING AND CROCHET. 


Thirty-fourth to thirty-ninth rows.—Work throughout through the back per¬ 
pendicular loops. To decrease for the toe, work up all but the three last stitches 
of each row. 

Fortieth to forty-third rows.—Work quite across the sides and toe of boot, 
working up a loop through each of the stitches not worked on in the previous 
rows; work off in the usual way. 

With blue Berlin wool work in chain stitch a Grecian pattern on the plain stripe 
up the front of leg and round the top; sew on the buttons and bows; sew up the leg 
and sole of foot. 

For the crochet edge, work one double into a stitch at top of bottine, three 
chain, pass over one stitch, and repeat all round. 

NO. 42.- CROCHETED BOOT IN SILK KNITTING ARRASENE. 

This little boot is crocheted in white silk arrasene for leg and instep, and in 

pink for the shoe. Use a bone 
hook, No. 11, make a chain of 
twenty-one, join and work a 
round in double crochet and 
then make eight rounds of alter¬ 
nate double crochet and the 
raised stitch, end off. The in¬ 
step requires eight stitches; 
join and make two chain, work 
four double stitches and four 
raised ones in each row. There 
must be four rows in the instep. 
Now join the pink, and crochet 
two doubles in one loop. Work 
the round in the alternate double 
and raised stitch, always working 
two in the two corners of the in¬ 
step; crochet three rounds of 
raised and double crochet, and 
two of plain double, end off. 
Turn the boot inside out, and 
sew up, gathering the ten toe 
stitches together, fasten the sole 
loosely, turn the boot back, and 
draw into shape. Work a pretty 
border on the leg, such as one 
double and four treble in one loop, put the hook back, and work one single in the 
first stitch, make eight of these knobs, and the boot is finished; insert a ribbon 
round ankle. One skein of each color makes two pairs of boots. 

NO. 43. -CROCHET AND HAIR-PIN EDGING. 

Make a piece of hair-pin work of the necessary length. (See page 108.) 

For the edge :— 

First row.—Work two doubles into three loops of hair-pin work together, three 
chain; repeat from the beginning of the row. 

Second row.—One double, three half trebles, and one double under each three 
chain of last row. 



KNITTING AND CROCHET. 


111 


For the heading:— 

First row.—One double into three loops of hair-pin work together, three chain; 
repeat. 

Second row.—One treble separated by one chain into each alternate stitch of 
last row. 

This is an example of crochet and hair-pin work. 

no. 44. —infant’s boots in crochet tricotee. 

Berlin fingering, hook No. 10. There are but two ways of commencing an 
infant’s boot in crochet tricotee; one is at the side, and the other is at the toe. 
The following is a very pretty boot, commencing at the toe: The foot part is 
entirely done in crochet tricotee, and the leg in honeycomb crochet tricotee. 

First row.—Begin with five chain, and raise five loops. Work back, first 
through one loop, and then through two, to the end. 

Second row.—Raise two loops, increase by raising a loop between the second 
and third loop, raise the third loop, increase as before, raise the fourth and fifth 
loop. You have now seven loops on your hook. Go on increasing thus till you 
have thirteen loops on your hook. Repeat this row without increasing. Now go 
on as before, increasing two in each row until you have seventeen loops on your 
hook. Repeat this row without increasing. Go on as before, until you have 
twenty-one loops on your hook, and then begin the sides by picking up only 
eight loops. Do nine rows of eight loops, and cast off. Tie your wool now on 
the sixth loop on the instep, raising eight loops, and leaving five unworked on the 
instep. Do nine rows on your eight loops, and cast off. The shoe part is now 
finished, and these sides will by-and-by be joined up the back. Now tie on the 
wool afresh at the back, and pick up twenty-five loops thus: Ten on each side, and 
five across the instep, and work back in looped stitch, which is this: Draw the 
wool through one loop, *, three chain, draw the wool through the next two loops, 
three chain, *, and repeat from * to * to the end. Now pick up twenty-five loops 
again, and when you come to the three chains, bend them forward as they form 
little rosettes. This being the row for the ribbon to run through, you pick up 
your twenty-five thus: Raise a stitch, do two chain, and repeat to the end. Work 
back as usual. Now do five rows of loops, taking care that the rosettes of one 
row come between the rosettes of the preceding one. Cast off. Edge with a row 
of double crochet in color, if your sock is white, and sew up your sock before put¬ 
ting in the sole. For the sole: Chain of five. Raise five loops. Work back. 
Increase, and raise seven; repeat. Next row raise nine. Then two sevens again, 
by taking in twice. You then go on thus: Four fives, three sevens, one nine, two 
sevens, two fives, and cast off. This makes a shapeable little sole, and must be 
carefully fitted and sewed in. 

no. 45. —lady’s crochet slipper. 

Four skeins of double Berlin wool (eight fold), black, cardinal, violet, or blue; 
six small skeins of single Berlin to match; one skein of pale gold thick Dacca silk, 
filoselle, or narrow silk braid. Straight hook as for tricot, to fit the wool, not too 
large, as this stitch, if for slippers, must be worked close and firm. 

The stitch is a kind of double tricot, and is worked in the same way; but the 
wool is always put round the hook before taking up two loops, and again to draw it 
through these two loops; in going back it is always drawn through three loops. 

The Toe .—First bar. Make ten chain, miss one, wool round the hook, draw 


I I 2 


KNITTING AND CROCHET. 


through the next, wool round the hook, take up in this way nine stitches from the 
chain; there will be ten with the first loop on the hook. Go back; wool round the 
hook, draw through three loops every time. 

Second bar.—*, Wool round the hook, take up two stitches, the straight one 
and the slanting one beyond it, draw the wool through these two; repeat from *. 
The last stitch must be taken up double, through to the back of it to make the 
edge firm. Go back; draw through three loops. 

Third bar.—Increase, wool round the hook, take up the little slanting stitch 
close to the loop on the hook. At the end of the bar, with the wool round the 
hook, take up a second time the slanting stitch of the one worked the last but one 
before the end. Go back; draw through three loops. 

Fourth bar.—Plain; increase at both ends every other bar till eleven bars are 
worked, then do two plain bars between each increasing. There will be twenty 
four stitches across the foot. In the eighteenth bar, work to six from the end and 



No. 45—Lady’s crochet slipper. 


go back to eight from the beginning; then work eight and go back to the begin¬ 
ning of the bar. 

Now work the side of the shoe upon eight stitches. There will be eight left for 
the front, and eight for the other side. Work from forty-five to fifty bars accord¬ 
ing to the length of the sole, taking care always to work the last stitch through to 
the back. Join this piece to the shoe with a large wool needle, taking the edge 
stitch singly, then two stitches, first from one edge then from the other. 

With the silk, work looped stars according to fancy, one on the toe, one on 
each side of this a little above, one in the middle below the rosette, and three con¬ 
tinued at each side. 

Sew the shoe to a double sole to the inside leather, hold the fluffy part nearest 
to you, and take up the inside edge stitch together with the loop above it. Work 
one tight row of double crochet on the side piece (not across the front), taking up 
the inside loop at the edge. 

The rosette is made of the single Berlin wool. Upon the end of the wool held 
in left hand work sixty treble crochet, turn, and between each' of these do three 
chain, a single; turn, and do three chain and a single in the three chain of the 
last row. Draw this up tight to form an irregular rosette, and sew it to the shoe. 

no. 46. —baby’s mitten: crochet. 

Materials: One-half ounce Berlin wool; fine bone crochet hook. 

Make a chain of thirty-six stitches and join. 

First three rounds.—Single crochet. 

Fourth round.—Treble. 

Fifth round.—Sixteen treble, and take up the seventeenth and eighteenth 
stitches together. 












KNITTING AND CROCHET. 


Ir 3 


Sixth round.—Treble without increasing. 

Seventh round.—Like the fifth round. 

Eighth round.—Like the sixth round. 

Ninth round.—Like the fifth round. 

Tenth round.—One treble, one chain, miss one; repeat. There should now be 
thirty-two stitches. 

Eleventh round.—Single crochet, but increase two in the sixteenth stitch (/. e., 
work three in it). 

Twelfth round.—Treble and increase two in the middle stitch. 

Thirteenth and fourteenth rounds.—Increase three in each round at the center. 

The twelve stitches in the part where you have been increasing are to be 
joined for the thumb, which is to be worked separately, as follows: Four rounds 
single crochet, three rounds decreasing, two rounds decreasing twice, and sew up 
the point of the thumb. There should be left thirty stitches for the hand. Work 
two rounds, treble, then two rounds treble, decreasing above the thumb, and at 
the thirteenth stitch (on the opposite side of the hand), and work two more rounds, 
decreasing four stitches in each round. Sew up on the wrong side, and run ribbon 
round the wrist. 

no. 47. —lady’s fanchon. 

Wh ite zephyr, long bone needle. 

Foundation of 132 stitches, crochet in afghan stitch, narrow every fourth row. 
This is done by crocheting two loops together at the beginning of a row, and draw¬ 
ing the thread through two loops instead of one at the beginning of a return row. 
Decrease until there are but five stitches on needles; draw thread through these, 
and fasten off, 

Border. —Crochet a foundation long enough to go all around the hood. First, 
second and third rows, of double crochet (putting needle through both top stitches), 
in white zephyr. 

Fourth row.—Seven double, white; now fasten on blue, or any other color vou 
prefer, and crochet seven picots; these are composed of five chain, one single, the 
single to be put into the first of chain; this will make a line of picots. On the 
edge of these picots, crochet double all round; now join this line together, making 
a round rosette. Let the loop on needle drop, insert the needle through hole of 
rosette, and draw the loop through on the under side. Continue right on now with 
double crochet for seven stitches, then make another rosette, and so on the whole 
length of the border. 

Fifth, sixth, seventh and eighth rows.—Double, white. 

Ninth row.—Fasten on blue and crochet scallop of one double, two treble, two 
double treble, one double, one single. Repeat all round edge or border; th ; s is 
sewed on to hood. 

A more open hood can be made by using open tricot stitch (which see) and 
split zephyr. 

NO. 48. -child’s SOFT BONNET IN ARRASENE AND DOUBLE BERLIN WOOL. 

This pretty bonnet will fit a child from one to two years, and takes two and 
a half skeins of arrasene (the knitting) and one-half ounce of double Berlin wool. 

Begin with the crown, which is worked with arrasene in the “ raised ” stitch. 
Use No. 9 bone hook. Make a chain of five and join. There should be five knots 
or raised stitches in first round, worked thus : 

Place hook into the joined loop and make four chain, draw through the two 


KNITTING AND CROCHET. 


114 

on hook, and make a double crocket stitch into the same loop; four more the same; 
now tie a piece of cotton to mark the end of the round. Work two more rounds in 
exactly the same way. 

Fourth round.—Make a raised and a double stitch in every alternate loop, 
which will make at the end of the round twenty-seven knots; place another piece 

of cotton at the end of this round. 

Fifth round.—Work a “ raised ” and 
double crochet stitch in every third 
loop, which will make thirty-three knots 
at the end of round. 

Sixth round.—Work a “ raised ” and 
double crochet stitch in every fifth loop, 
which will make thirty-seven knots. 

Seventh round.—Place another bit 
of cotton at the end of last round. Be¬ 
gin with a “ raised ” and double crochet in 
the first loop, and do the same in every 
seventh loop, which should make forty 
knots in the round. 

Eighth round.—Begin with a “raised” 
and double crochet in the first loop, and 
do the same in every ninth loop, which 
will make forty-three knots. 

Ninth round.—Like the last round, 
which will make forty-five knots. 

The rest of the bonnet is worked in 
treble crochet. 

Place a bit of cotton at the end of 
last round ; three chain and work the 
round in trebles, ninety-one in all, and 
join into the three chain with single crochet 

Second round.—Three chain, work five trebles, *, miss one loop, six trebles ; 
repeat from * to end of round, join to first three chain. 

Third round.—Three chain, and work the round in trebles, of which there 
should be seventy-nine; join. 

Fourth round.—One chain, work six double crochet, then three trebles, *, miss 
a loop, work nine trebles; repeat from * five more times, miss a loop, work three 
trebles, nine double crochet; join, and fasten off arrasene. 

Now join the wool (which must be the same shade as the arrasene) on to the 
first treble of the previous round. 

First row.—One chain, work twenty-four double crochet, two double crochet 
in next loop, one double crochet in the next, two doubles in the next, one in the 
next, two in the next, one in the next, two in the next, and then twenty-four double 
crochet, which should be on the first of the last three trebles of previous rows; 
fasten off. 

Second row.—Join the wool onto the third double of last row, three chain and 
work fifty-six trebles; fasten off. 

Third row.—Join wool to the third treble of previous row, three chain, work 
twenty-two trebles, two trebles in next loop, one treble in the next, two trebles in 










KNITTING AND CROCHET. 


TI 5 

the next, one treble in the next, two trebles in the next; then twenty-two trebles 
and fasten off. 

Fourth row.—Join wool on to the third treble of the last row, three chain, 
twenty-three trebles, two trebles in the next, one treble in each of the two next 
loops, two trebles in the next, twenty-three trebles; fasten off. 

This finishes the wool. Now commence the first of the four frills with the 
arrasene. 

First frill.—Fasten arrasene to the first treble of wool foundation, three chain, 
two trebles in the same loop, three chain, three more trebles in the same loop, miss 
one, work a double crochet in the next, miss one, *, three trebles in the next loop, 
three chain, three more trebles in the same loop, miss one, a double crochet in the 
next loop, miss one; repeat from * to the end of the row. This frill must be 
.worked on the loops of the first row of foundation trebles. 

becond frill. The same as the last, only fasten on the arrasene to the first 
double of the first frill, and work a double crochet on to the third of the three chain 
of second treble row of foundation, and begin the three trebles on the same chain, 
working * five trebles, three chain, five trebles, miss one, work one double, miss 
one, and repeat from * At the end of the frill fasten to double of the last row. 

Third frill—Fasten arrasene to the last of the three chain of last foundation 
trebles, and work in exactly the same manner as the last frill. At the end of the 
last, foundation row. 

The fourth frill is to form a double of the last frill; consequently, it must be 
worked on the same chain loops. Turn the front of the bonnet toward you. Be¬ 
gin with a double crochet stitch in the next chain of the foundation, and in the 
next work * five trebles, three chain, five trebles, miss one, work a double crochet 
in the next, miss one, and repeat from *. The five trebles, three chain, five trebles 
should correspond with those of the third frill. 

Commence the small curtain with arrasene, and join it to the bit of wool left 
from last row of foundation; one chain, work five trebles, three chain, five trebles 
into last treble of second row of foundation, one double crochet into the last treble 
of first row of treble foundation; five trebles, three chain, five trebles into the last 
but one of double crochet foundation row, *, miss one, work a double crochet, miss 
one, work five trebles, three chain, five trebles into next loop; repeat from * until 
you reach the commencement of the third frill, when you end off with a double 
crochet securely. Line the bonnet from the wool foundation row with sarsanet, 
placing first a little sateen the same color as the arrasene. Run a wire round the 
crown at the extreme edge of the “raised” row, and another from the nape of the 
neck to the foundation row of the first frill to keep it in shape; pinch the wire into 
a point at the top of the front of the bonnet to form a point, and sew it securely to 
keep it in place. Place a lace cap inside, and use four yards of ribbon; make a 
handsome rosette at the top, and twist the ribbon tastefully at the back, and allow 
good strings to tie. 

NO. 49. —baby’s hood in white arrasene wool, crochet and knitting. 

Crochet the crown. Bone needle, No. II. Make a chain of three, make two 
double stitches in each chain, the second always being the raised stitch, in this 
manner; work one double, then put the hook into the same chain stitch, and, be¬ 
fore making another double, make four chain stitches then draw it through, and so 
on. Two or even three stitches may be put in one chain, so long as a perfectly 
flat round is preserved. The crown should measure from four to five inches across. 


KNITTING AND CROCHET 


116 


Begin again in double crochet at the 


twenty-fourth stitch from where 
you left off, and work exactly in 
the same manner, double crochet 
and raised stitch, but now only 
one in every stitch to form the 
head piece, taking care not to 
work the twenty-four stitches 
which are intended for the cur¬ 
tain. Cut the end off at every 
row, and commence at the begin¬ 
ning. Work in this manner six 
or eight rows, according to the 
size of hood required. When a 
sufficient number of rows have 
been worked, and without break¬ 
ing off the arrasene, work one 
row in treble crochet across the 
nape of the neck, so as to allow 
the ribbon to run through; fasten 
off, and begin at the same point 
that the trebles commenced; but 
now work in alternate stitches 
of double crochet and raised loop- 
stitch. Six rows will be sufficient 
The crochet part is now finished. 

The border is in looped knitting. 
Use bone needle, No. io. Cast on loosely twelve stitches (knit the first and the 
last stitch), knit one, put needle in the next loop, and wind the arrasene three times 
round the needle and the two fingers. Knit the stitch, the second row plain knitting, 
then draw the loops into order. Knit this border the entire round of the hood, taking 
care to ease it at the corners. The raised stitch takes away from the otherwise flat 
appearance of the crown and head-piece and curtain. Run a narrow ribbon 
through the treble stitches, tie into a bow with ends; line with satin. Place a 
pretty cap inside, wdth corded ribbon strings, and the result is exceedingly effective. 
This hood takes from four to five skeins of wool arrasene. 



No. 49 —Baby’s hood in white arrasene wool, crochet and 

EMITTING. 


Materials: 



NO. 50.-BICYCLE CAP. 

One ounce of Germantown and a fine crochet hook. 

Make a chain of five stitches, join in a circle. 
First round.—Two treble crochets in every foun¬ 
dation stitch. 

Second round.—Like first. 

Third round.—Two treble crochets in every al¬ 
ternate stitch. 

Fourth round.—Two treble crochets 


No. 50 — Bicycle cap. 


every increase. 

Fifth round.—Three 


between 


treble crochets between 


every increase. 

Sixth round.—Four treble crochets between every increase. 
Seventh round.—Five treble crochets between everv increase. 



























KNITTING AND CROCHET. 


117 


Eighth round.—Six treble crochets between every increase. 
Ninth round.—Seven treble crochets between every increase. 
Tenth round.—Eighth treble crochets between every increase. 
This finishes the crown of the cap. 

For the band around the head: 

First round.—Ten treble crochet, miss one all around. 

Eleven rounds of treble crochet, without increase or decrease. 


NO. 51.-TAM O’SHANTER, FOR A GIRL OF TWELVE YEARS, IN CRIMSON SILK 

ARRASENE. 



This pretty and easily made cap is worked in the “ raised ” and double crochet. 
Use No. 9 bone hook. Make a chain of four and join. Place hook in loop and 
make four chain, then draw through 
the stitch already on hook, make a 
double stitch in the same loop; 
this is called the “ raised ” stitch. 

Work six rounds in this manner, 
always putting the “ raised ” and 
double stitch in one loop in order 
to. make it lie flat. From the 
center work twenty-one rounds, 
increasing occasionally to keep it 
quite flat. Work two more rows 
without increasing, next row de¬ 
crease by taking two loops as one 
every ninth stitch (the raised and 
the double stitch are counted as 
one). Next row decrease every 
seventh stitch; continue thus till 
the opening fits the head, then 
work six rounds without decreas¬ 
ing and end off. Make a handsome 
tuft by winding the arrasene round 
a small book or piece of cardboard, 
form it into the tuft without cut¬ 
ting it. To line the cap, cut two 

rounds of sateen the size of the XT 

Ino. 51—Tam ctskanter. 

flat round part, cut one of these 

pieces to the size of the head, join the pieces of sateen together, and put a plain 
band to the opening and join to the band of cap. Arrasene worked thus has a 
most velvet-like appearance. The knitting arrasene is used for it, not the em¬ 
broidery, which is heavier in make. 


NO. 52. -ROUND SHAWL. 

A chain of ten stitches, unite, *. 

First round.—Four chain for a treble, two treble, one chain, three treble from 
* eight times, one chain, one single on the fourth chain at the commencement. 

Second round.—Four chain, *, one double crochet over the next chain of last 
round, three treble, two chain, three treble over the following chain; repeat from 
*; at the end of the last treble work a single on the fourth chain. 

















118 


KNITTING AND CROCHET. 


Third round—In this round you increase *,on: double crochet, over the next, 
double crochet over every three chain of last round, work three treble, two chain, 

three treble, two chain, three treble; repeat from * 

Fourth round.—*, One double crochet on the next double crochet, over the 
next two chain work three treble, two chain, three treble, a double crochet on the 
second of cne next three chain, three treble, two chain, three treble on the next 
two chain; repeat from *. 

Fifth round.—An increase round, a set of trebles and chain over the first two 
chain of last round, a double crochet on the second of the last of the three trebles, 
a set of trebles over the next double crochet, a double crochet on the second of the 
next three trebles, a set of trebles over the next set of three trebles, one double 



crochet on the next double crochet; repeat from the beginning of the round. In 
this round you will see you have three sets of trebles over the one set of the second 

round. Work six rounds like the second round. 

Twelfth round.—*, A set of trebles over each of the next three sets of two 
chain, after the last a double crochet on the second treble, a set of trebles divided 
by two chain over the next double crochet, a double crochet on the next second 

treble; repeat from *. 

Thirteenth round.—One set of trebles on each of the next three sets, on the 
extra one of the last round work two treble, one chain, two treble, one chain, two 
treble; repeat the round. 

Fourteenth round.—One set of trebles on each of the next three sets, on the 
increased set work over each of the one chain a set of trebles, a double crochet 

on the next double crochet; repeat the whole round. 

Sixteenth round.—A set of trebles on each of the next three sets, on the fol¬ 
lowing, the first of the increased ones, a set of trebles, a double crochet on the 
second'treble, a set of trebles on the thread between the two sets, a double crochet 
on the second of the next set of trebles, a set of trebles over the chain between 

the last of these sets of trebles. 

Seventeenth round.—Like the second round. 










KNITTING AND CROCHET llg 

Eighteenth round.—*, Increase by working a set on the double crochet be¬ 
tween the two first sets of trebles, and between the second and third sets, one set 
on each of the next five sets; repeat from *; nine rounds like the second round. 

Twenty-eighth round.—*, Five sets of trebles, increase between the next two 
sets, three sets, increase between the next two sets; repeat from *; ten rounds like 
the second round 

Thirty-ninth round.—Four sets, increase, *, one set, increase, one set, in¬ 
crease; repeat from *; ten more rounds like the second round. 

Fiftieth round.—Two sets of trebles, *, on the next set work three treble two 
chain, three treble, two chain, three treble, six sets of trebles; repeat from *. 

Fifty-first round.—Two sets of trebles, *, over the next chain work a set 
work a double crochet on the second of the next three chain, a set of trebles over 
the next chain, six sets of trebles; repeat from *. 

Fifty-second round.—Three sets of trebles, *, a set upon the double crochet 
between the last and next set. This should be between the second increased set in 

the fiftieth round, a set on each of the eight sets; repeat from *; seven rounds like 
the second round. 

Sixtieth round.—Seven sets of trebles, *, increase on the next by working 
three treble, one chain, three treble, one chain, three treble, fifteen sets; repeal 
Irom *. You will require an increase quite at the end of the round. 

Sixty-first round.—Work two sets of trebles on each of the increased ones a 
double crochet on the second treble between. 

Sixth-second round.-Three sets of trebles on the two increased ones of last 

round, working as you did in the forty-second round; twelve rounds like the 
second. 

Seventy-fifth round. Three sets of trebles, increase on the next, *, ten sets of 
trebles, increase on the next, repeat from *. 

Seventy-sixth round.—Work two sets of trebles on the increased set of last 
round, with a double crochet on the second treble between them, one set on each 
of the others. 

Seventy-seventh round.-Three sets of trebles on the increased set of last 
round, working as you did in the fifty-second round, eight rounds plain which 
completes the shawl. 

NO - 53--SQUARE SHAWL. 

Make a foundation chain of one hundred stitches with eis wool. Crochet 
backward and forward on this as follows. The work should be done loosely. 

First row.—*, Six treble, with one chain between each, in the fifth foundation 
stitch, one chain, miss four, one double, one chain; repeat nineteen times from *. 

Second row. Four chain, the first three to form one treble, three treble with 
one chain between in next double, *, one chain, one double in center chain of six 
trebles, one chain, six trebles with one chain between each in next double; repeat 
nineteen times from *, but at end of row only three treble with one chain between 
instead of six in the last double; repeat the preceding row sixty-six times always 
remembering to reverse the pattern, i. e., to put the six treble over the double of 
the previous row, and the double over the six treble. Now continue the last row 
(in the same pattern) around the other three sides of the square. You will of 
course, be careful to increase sufficiently at the corners to make them lie flat. Now 
without breaking your thread, crochet the border as follows. A detail of border 
which will be found an assistance in the work, is herewith given 


120 


KNITTING AND CROCHET 



No. 63—Square shawl. 



Detai- of no. 53. 


One chain, one double in chain between two 
treble, *, one chain, six treble with one chain be¬ 
tween each in next double, one chain, one double in 
center chain of next six treble, three chain, one 
cross-bar as follows: One cross ^reble, /. e., put 
the thread twice around the hook, put the hook 
through the chain between the fifth and sixth 
trebles, put the thread over the hook and draw it 
through the stitch, thread over the hook, draw 
through two loops together, turn the thread over 
the hook, put the hook in the chain between the 
first and second of the next six treble, draw the 
hook through, pass thread over hook, draw 
through two loops, thread over the hook, draw 
through two loops, thread . over hook, draw 
through all the stitches on hook together, four 
chain, one treble in center of cross treble, three 
chain, one double in center chain of next six 
treble; repeat from *. 

Second row.—■*, Three chain, one double in cen¬ 
ter chain of next six treble, three chain, one 
cross-bar as before, three chain, one double in 
four chain of next cross-bar, three chain, one cross¬ 
bar; repeat from *. 

Third row.—Like first row, but in reversed 
position. 











KNITTING AND CROCHET. 


I 2 I 


Fourth row.—Like the pattern of body of shawl. 

Fifth row.—Like the first row. 

Sixth row.—Like the fourth row. 

Seventh row.—*, Six treble, with one chain between each in the double just 
above the six treble in the third row, one chain, one double in the chain be¬ 
tween the third and fourth of the six treble, one chain, one double between the 
fourth and fifth of the six treble, seven chain, one double in chain between the 
second and third of next six treble, one chain, one double in next chain (between 
third and fourth treble), one chain; repeat from *; close with a slip-stitch. 

Eighth row.—*, Five chain, one double in center chain of six treble, five 
chain, one double in chain before next double, taking in also the stitch under it in 
last row but one, three chain, one double in chain before next double, taking in 
stitch of last row but one, three chain, six treble, with one chain between each in 
center of seven chain, three chain, one double in chain between two next double, 
taking ip stitch also of last row but one, three chain, one double in chain after 
next double, taking in, etc.; repeat from *. 

Ninth row.—Two slip-stitch, *, one double in second of six treble in last row 
but one, taking in the chain stitch of the last row, five chain, one double in fifth of 
the same six treble, taking in the chain stitch over it, three chain, two treble 
drawn up together in the first of next six treble (two treble drawn up together 
are worked thus: Begin like an ordinary treble and work until you have two loops 
left on the needle, then insert the needle in the same stitch in which you began 
your treble, draw through the thread, draw through two loops, and again through 
two loops), one chain, two treble, drawn up together in chain between first and sec¬ 
ond treble, one chain; repeat until you have made a shell of ten times two treble 
drawn up together on the six treble, three chain; repeat from *. 

Tenth row.—Two slip-stitch, *, one double in double of last row but one, tak¬ 
ing in also the chain above it, three chain, two treble drawn up together in next 
two treble drawn up together, one purl of four chain, ending in a double on first 
stitch of said four chain; repeat alternately the two treble drawn up together, and 
purl of four chain eight times more, two treble drawn up together in last two 
treble drawn up together, three chain; repeat from *. 

NO. 54. -SQUARE SHAWL IN CRAZY PATTERN. 

Crochet needle No. 10, Shetland wool or fine eider yarn. 

Make four chain, join, and into circle work four times one double crochet, two 
chain, and three treble, and join by drawing wool through the first double crochet 
stitch. This shawl is not worked round in the usual way, but the work is to be 
“turned ” at the completion of each round. 

Second round.—Make three chain, and turn, and under the first two chain of 
last round work, *, one double crochet, two chain, and three treble, twice in same 
place, and repeat from * under each two chain in previous round, and join by 
drawing wool through the first double crochet stitch. 

Third round.—Three chain, turn, and under first two chain of last round work, 
*, one double crochet, two chain, three treble under the first two chain of last 
round, and one double crochet, two chain, and three treble twice under next two 
chain, and repeat from *; join as before. 

Fourth round.—Three chain, turn, work one double crochet, two chain, and 
three treble under first two chain, and same under next; then for the corner work 
the same twice under next two chain, and repeat. Continue each round the same, 


122 


KNITTING AND CROCHET 


always increasing at the four corners, and work in straight along the four sides. 
For border, work three or four rounds in different colored wool from that used 
for ground of shawl. This is a pretty, effective pattern, and very simple. 

N °. 55.- CROCHET CAPE. 

This pretty and well-shaped garment takes seven ounces of Berlin wool, but 
single zephyr or Germantown wool may be substituted. No. 55-a gives a pattern 
which should be cut out in paper according to the figures marked on the outside 



N o. 55—Crochet cape. 


lines and used to shape the crochet by. The 
fronts, back and sleeves are crocheted sep¬ 
arately, and then sewed together. Begin 
each piece at the lower edge, and shape it 
to fit the paper pattern by increasing or 
decreasing at the sides. In the cape from 
which this is copied a foundation of thirty- 
one chain stitches must be made for each 



No. 55 -a. 


front, thirty-eight for the sleeve part (b of No. 55 -a), forty-two for the back (letter 
c). Nos. 55-^ and c show the under and upper side of the crochet, which consists 
of rows of single crochet with knots or loops made in every other row by crochet¬ 
ing four chain stitches between every four stitches of single crochet. These loops 
must always be kept on the same side of the work, and they must be so arranged 
as to come in reversed rows. Thus the first row of knots would begin with four 
single stitches, four chain, four single stitches, and so on to the end of the row. 



No. 55-c. 


No. 55-£. 


The succeeding row of knots will begin two single stitches, four chain, four single 
stitches, etc. 

When the front and back part are worked, the shoulders are seamed together 
at the back; the sleeves are then set in, the fullness on the outer edge being gathered 
in at the shoulder. Crochet a small band round the neck, consisting of two rows 































KNITTING AND CROCHET. 


123 

of single crochet, and two rows of knots, finishing with a row of picots. The lower 
part of the cape is trimmed with the knitted fringe shown in Fig. 55 -d, which is 
worked as follows : 

Cast on seven stitches; make one, knit two together, make one, knit two to¬ 
gether, knit three. 

Second row.—Knit three, make one, narrow, make one, narrow. 

When a sufficient length is knit, bind off the four stitches which form the head¬ 
ing, and ravel out the three lower stitches to form the fringe. If pressed first with 
a warm iron, the worsted will retain a slightly waved or crimped look. The lower 
row of fringe is knit with five plain stitches, two only being used for the heading. 
In making a stitch, if the thread is wound twice round the needle, the work will 
have a more lacy effect, but the made stitch must be knit as one stitch in the return 
row. A crocheted edge can be substituted for the knitted fringe. 

A very pretty edging for the purpose is worked as follows : 

Work a chain of the required length. 

First row.—One double into each of five foundation stitches, *, five triple treble 
(worked by winding the thread three times around the needle, and working these 
loops off successively as in single treble) into the next foundation stitch; keep the 

top loop of each treble on the hook until all are 
worked, and then draw the thread through 
all at once; pass over five foundation stitches, 
work five more treble in the same way into 
the next stitch; having worked off these 
stitches, take out the needle, insert it into 
the last of the six chain, and draw the 
loop through this stitch ; make seven chain, 
work four triple treble between the two 
clusters just worked, six chain, one double 
into the top of the two clusters, six chain, 
one double into the next foundation stitch, 
four double into the next four stitches, and 
repeat from *. 

Second row.—One double into the third 
of five doubles between the patterns, three chain, one double into the center of six 
chain at the side of the cluster, seven chain, one double into the center of the next 
six chain, five chain, one double into the top of a pattern, five chain, one double 
into the center of the next six chain, three chain; repeat from the beginning of the 
row; but in the next pattern draw the fourth of the seven chain through the cor¬ 
responding stitch on the last pattern. 

Third row.—One double into the last of seven chain, three double, three chain, 
and three double under the six chain on the side of the upper cluster, one double 
into the top stitch of the cluster, three chain and one double into the same stitch ; 
three double, three chain, and three double under the six chain on the other side 
of the cluster, one double under the first of the next seven chain, four chain; 
repeat. 

no. 56.— child’s crochet dress. 

This dress is for a child whose chest measure is twenty-two inches. The 
full length from the top of back is twenty inches, It is worked with cardinal 
Saxony wool. Begin with the bottom of the waist, and make a chain of 130 











124 


KNITTING AND CROCHET. 



stitches. In the pattern, from which these directions are taken, thirteen stitches in 


width measured three inches; and 


No. 56 —Child’s crochet dress. 


thfee rows in height were rather less than one 
inch deep. A fine wooden or bone afghan 
crochet needle should be used. 

First row.—Take up the 130 stitches as if 
for afghan or tricot stitch, and work back, i. c., 
*, you insert the needle in the next chain stitch, 
draw the wool through; repeat from * to the 
end of the row. Then work back by drawing 
the wool through the first loop, *, then take the 
wool on the needle and draw through every two 
loops to the end of the row, repeating from * 

Second row.—Take up the whole of the 
next loop on the needle, the wool on the needle, 
draw it through the needle between the long 
loop taken up and the next under the chain at 
the top; the wool on the needle, draw through, 
and then draw this loop through the loop made 
just before. Take up each successive stitch in 
this manner; at the end of the row take up the 
last stitch in the ordinary manner, and work 
back like the first row. 


Third row.—Work the whole row. When you work back work the twenty- 
fourth and twenty-fifth loops together to decrease a stitch; also the 107th and 
106th together; the rest as before. 

Fourth and fifth rows.—Each 128 loops. 

Sixth row.—Take up the whole row; when you work back work the twenty- 
fourth and twenty-fifth together again, and count twenty-three at the other end; 
work the twenty-fourth and twenty-fifth together, then the others; repeat the fifth 
and sixth rows until you have had five rows of decreasings, and reduce the stitches 
to 120. 

Twelfth row and next thirteen rows.—Each 120 loops. 

Twenty-sixth row.—You now divide for the arm holes. Thirty stitches on 
each side for the back, sixty for the front. 

To make one side of the back: 

First row.—Take up twenty-six loops; work back. 

Second row.—Take up twenty-five loops; work back. 

Third row.—Take up twenty-four loops; work back. 

Fourth row.—Take up twenty-three loops; work back. 

Fifth and next four rows.—Each twenty-three loops. 

Tenth row.—Twenty-two loops; take the needle between the last two loops 
again, draw through; then the last loop. This increases a loop. Work back each 
loop as before. 

Eleventh row.—Plain, i. <?., no increasings. 

Twelfth and thirteenth rows.—Increase a loop at the end of each row. You 
now begin the shoulder. Work nine rows, decreasing one stitch at the beginning 
of each row as you work back. 

Twenty-third row.—A single stitch on each of the first ten loops, decrease one 




KNITTING AND CROCHET. 


I2 5 


at the end, then decrease one at each end of the row until there is only one loop. 
Fasten off. 

The Second Half of Back. —Count twenty-six loops from the end of the row, 
join the wool to the twenty-sixth, and work twenty-five more loops. Work back 
the two last loops together. 

Second, third and fourth rows.—Decrease one at the end of the row. 

Fifth and next four rows.—Each twenty-three loops. 

Tenth row.—Increase one between the two first loops. 

• Eleventh row.—No increasings. 

Twelfth and thirteenth rows.—Increase a loop in beginning each row. Then 
nine rows, decreasing a loop at the end of each row. After this leave the last nine 
loops unworked, and finish the shoulder like the first. 

The Front. —Leave seven loops of the twenty-fifth row of the work next to the 
first back, and take up all the loops, except seven before the second back. You 
should have fifty-four loops. Work them back. 

Second, third, fourth and fifth rows.—Decrease one at the end and the begin¬ 
ning of each row. Three rows with no decreasings. 

Ninth row.—Decrease one in the middle of the row\ 

Tenth row.—Plain. 

Eleventh row.— Decrease one in the middle, and increase one at each end. 

Twelfth row.—Plain. 

Thirteenth row.—Like the ninth. 

Fourteenth row.—Increase one at each end. 

Fifteenth row.—Decrease one in the center, increase one at each end. 

Sixteenth row.—Count eight stitches in the middle of the work, and leave 
them unworked for the middle of the neck. Increase one in beginning the row; 
work to the eight left, and work back. 

Seventeenth row.—Increase one in commencing, decrease one in beginning to 
work back for the neck. 

Eighteenth and nineteenth rows.—Like the seventeenth row. 

Twentieth row.—Increase one in commencing; the rest plain. 

Twenty-first row.—Decrease one in commencing; the rest plain. 

Twenty-second row.—Two single in commencing; the rest plain. 

Twenty-third row.—Four single in commencing; the rest plain. 

Twenty-fourth row.—Three single in commencing; the rest plain. 

Twenty-fifth row.—Three single; rest plain. 

Twenty-sixth row.—Plain. Fasten off. Work the other shoulder to match, 
reversing the increasings. Commence after the eighth stitch left in the neck. 
Decrease in the beginning, and increase at the end of the row. Join the shoulder 
together by a row of single crochet on each side of the shoulder. 

You now begin the skirt. 

Join the first six rows of the work together, fold over eight stitches on each 
side for a hem. At the bottom of the waist, on the foundation chain, work one 
double crochet on the first loop, *, three treble on the next, one double crochet 
in the following; repeat from *. 

Second row.—*, One double crochet on the double crochet, one treble on 
the first treble, always taking up the little knot just at the back of the loop. This 
is to be done throughout the border; three treble behind the next treble, one on 
the following; repeat from *. 


i2 6 knitting and crochet. 

Third row._*, One double crochet on the double crochet, work one treble 

on each of the two first, three on the third, one on each of the two following; re¬ 
peat from *. 

Fourth row.—One double crochet on the double 
crochet, one treble on each of the trebles. 

Fifth row.—One double crochet on the double 
crochet, one treble on each of the three first treble, 
three on the following, one on each of the next 
trebles; repeat the row. 

Sixth row.—One double crochet on the double 
crochet, four treble, three on the next, four treble; 
repeat the row. 

Seventh row.—One double crochet on the 
double crochet, one treble on each of the next; repeat the row. 

Eighth row.—One double crochet on the double crochet, five treble, three on 
the next, five treble; repeat the row. 

Ninth row.—One double crochet on the double crochet, six treble, three treble 
on the next, six treble; repeat the row. 

Tenth row.—One double crochet on the double crochet, one treble on each of 
the treble. 

Eleventh row.—One double crochet on the double crochet, seven treble, three 
treble on the next, seven treble; repeat the row. 

Twelfth row.—One double crochet on the double crochet, eight treble, three 
treble on the next, eight treble; repeat the row. 

Thirteenth row.—Work one double crochet, four chain, one treble on the first 
chain, miss two stitches, one double crochet on the next. This row finishes the 
flounce or skirt; if it is required longer, work another flounce (making it double). 
To do this, at the back of the eleventh row work a double crochet, three chain, 
miss two, a double crochet in the next; on this row repeat the flounce until the 
skirt is the depth you require it. 

The Sleeve .—Make a chain of fifty stitches. Take up all the stitches and work 
back twenty-seven; take up ten, work back fourteen; take up these fourteen and 
five more, work back these nineteen and five more; take up these twenty-four loops 
and two more, work back twenty-eight; take up twenty-eight and two more, work 
back thirty-two; take up thirty-six, work back forty-eight; take up forty-two, 
work back forty-four; take up the whole row, work back all the loops; two plain 
rows. Decrease at the beginning and end of the next row, a plain row; repeat 
these two last rows four times, twelve plain rows. 

Twenty-fifth row.—Mark the two center stitches, on each side decrease a 
stitch; the rest plain. 

Twenty-sixth row.—Increase one at the beginning and end of the row, decrease 
one on each side the center stitches. 

Twenty-seventh row.—Decrease in the center; the rest plain. 

Twenty-eighth row.—Increase at the sides, decrease in the center; repeat these 
two rows four more times. 

Thirty-seventh row.—Take up all the stitches, decrease in the center, work 
back all but three; take up all but three, decrease in the centre, work back all but 
six; take up all but six, decrease in the center, work back eight; take up all, work 
back all, a row of double crochet on this row; join the sleeve. On the row of 



No. 56 -a. 







KNITTING A AW CROCHET. 12? 

double crochet (holding it towards you) work a frill, repeating the first eight rows 
of the flounce or skirt, and the thirteenth row on these. Then work the same 
round the neck, sew in the sleeves, fold down the back of the dress, add buttons 
and loops, or loop into the stitches. The dress should be completed by a silk sash. 
NO - 57 - CROCHET DRESS FOR CHILD FROM TWO TO THREE YEARS OF AGE. 

\ ou require eight ounces of pale blue Saxony wool, eight satin buttons to 
match, two yards of blue satin ribbon two inches wide, one and one-fourth yards 



No. 57—Child’s crochet dress. 


of deep frilling the depth of the skirt, lace for neck and cuffs, a bone tricotee hook 
No. 6. The original dress measured six stitches to the inch in width, and four 
rows to the inch in height. 

You commence in the neck at the back. Make a chain of thirty-three stitches. 
Take up sixteen loops on the needle, one by one, as in crochet tricotee. Work 
back sixteen, that is, the wool on the needle, draw through the first loop on the 
needle, *, the wool on the needle, draw through the first two loops on the needle; 
repeat from * at the end of the row. Make two chain, take up the first of these 
two chain, so increasing two loops as the second chain is on the needle, take up 
each of the sixteen loops, and the two next chain, work back twenty loops, then 
three chain again, take up two loops on the chain as before, take up the twenty 
loops of the last row, and three more of the foundation chain, work back these 
twenty-six loops and make two chain at the end. Raise a loop on the two chain, the 
twenty-six loops, and two more on the foundation chain, work back, make two 
chain at the end. Take up the first chain, take up the thirty loops and two more, 
work back thirty-four and make three chain. On this chain raise two loops, take 





























































128 


KNITTING AND CROCHET. 


up the thirty-four and three more, work back forty, make three chain, take up two 
loops on it, the forty of last row, and three more, work back forty-six loops, make 
two chain, raise one loop on it, the forty-sixth of last row, and the two last on the 
foundation chain, work back fifty loops; this brings you to the bottom of the shoul¬ 
der; three rows plain. 

Fourth row of back.—Take up two loops, take up the two next together, take 
up all the loops until you come to the four last, then two together, two plain, work 
all back. 

Fifth and sixth rows.—Plain. 

Seventh row.—Take up two loops, two together, take up all until the four 
last, two together, take up two; work back. 

Eighth and ninth rows.— Plain. 

Tenth row.—Take up all the loops, work back, through one twice, one chain, 
through two, to the last but two, make an extra chain, then through the two last. 

Eleventh row.—Take up two, on the chain make a loop, take up all to the extra 
chain at the end, a loop on it, a loop on each of the last two; work back in the 
same manner as last row, increasing a chain on each side the work. 

Twelfth row.—Repeat the eleventh row five times more. 

Seventeenth row.—Plain (fifty-eight loops). 

Eighteenth row.—Plain. 

Nineteenth row.—Take up the third and fourth loops together, and the fifty- 
sixth and fifty-fifth loops; work back. 

Twentieth and twenty-first rows.—Plain. 

Twenty-second row.—Take up the third and fourth loops together, and the 
fourth and third from the end; work back. 

Twenty-third and twenty-fourth rows.—Plain. 

Twenty-fifth row.—Take up two loops, the two next together, take up nine¬ 
teen, two together, take up four, two together, take up nineteen, two together, take 
up two; work back. 

Twenty-sixth and twenty-seventh rows.—Plain. 

Twenty-eighth row.—Take up two, two together, take up seventeen, two to¬ 
gether, take up four, two together, take up seventeen, two together, take up two; 
work back. 

Twenty-ninth and thirtieth rows.—Plain. 

Thirty-first row.—Take up two, two together, take up fifteen, two together, 
take up four, two together, take up fifteen, two together, take up two; work back. 

Thirty-second and next three rows.—Plain. 

Thirty-sixth row.—Take up all the loops as you work back, make an extra 
chain between the nineteenth and twentieth loops, take off four, make a chain, 
work plain to the end. 

Thirty-seventh row.—Take up all the loops, and one on each of the two chain 
stitches made, work back nineteen, make a chain, take off six, make a chain, work 
back the rest. 

Thirty-eighth row.—Take up all the loops of last row and one on each of the 
two chain stitches. 

Thirty-ninth row.—Work back nineteen, a chain, work off eight, a chain; work 
off the rest. 

Fortieth row.—Take up all the loops, and one extra on each of the two chain, 
work back nineteen, a chain, work off ten, a chain; work off the rest 


KNITTING AND CROCHET. l2g 

Forty-first row.—Take up all the loops; work back all. 

forty-second row. Take up all, work back nineteen, a chain, work off twelve 
a chain; work off the rest. 

Forty-third row.—Take up all, and one extra on the two chain stitches; work 
off plain. 

Forty-fourth row. Take up all, work off nineteen, a chain, work off fourteen 
a chain; work off the rest. 

Forty-fifth row.—Take up all the loops, and one on the two chain stitches; 
work off all. Three more plain rows. This completes the back. 

The Right Front .—Take up the stitches on the foundation chain, commencing 
at the bottom of the shoulder, upon the last row of increasings before the three 
plain rows. Take up nineteen stitches, work back three, take up the two first of 
these three, work back six, take up these again (the last is on the needle), work 
back two, increase a chain, work off the rest and three more, take up these nine, 
and one on the chain stitch, work off two, increase a chain, work off to the end of 
the last little row, and three more; repeat this last little row until you have work¬ 
ed off all the loops, then two rows, increasing a chain in the neck each row, plain 
on the shoulder. 

Fourth row of neck.—Take up all the loops, cast onto the needle as if you 
were knitting six loops; work all off. You should have thirty-one loops. 

Fifth row.—Take up two, two together, take up the rest; work off plain. 

Sixth and seventh rows.—Plain. 

Eighth row. Take up two, two together, take up the rest, until the three last, 
a double crochet on the third from the last, take up two’ work off two, a chain! 
work off the rest, four rows plain, working one on the chain—the hole forms a 
button-hole. 

Thirteenth row.—Take up all the loops, work off all but the last two, increase 
a chain; work off the two loops. 

Fourteenth row. Take up all the loops and one extra on the chain, work off 
all but the two last, a chain, work off two; repeat this row five more times, work¬ 
ing a button-hole in the fifteenth row; at the end of the nineteenth row make two 
chains as well as the increase before the two last stitches. 

Twentieth row.—Take up all the stitches; you should have thirty-six loops, a 
button-hole at the end, two rows plain. 

Twenty-third row.—Take up three, two together, take up the rest; work off 
plain. 

Twenty-fourth and twenty-fifth rows.—Plain. In the twenty-fifth make a 
button-hole. 

Twenty-sixth row.—Take up three, two together; take up rest and work off. 

Twenty-seventh and twenty-eighth rows.—Plain. 

Twenty-ninth row.—Take up three, two together; take up the rest and 
work off. s 

Thirtieth and thirty-first rows.—Plain; make a button-hole. 

Thirty-second row.—Like twenty-eighth row. 

Work nineteen plain rows, and a button-hole in every fifth row. This completes 
the right front. Join together with single crochet the nineteenth and following 
rows to the seventeenth row of back and following rows. 

Left Front .—Take up the sixteenth loop in the neck of the back piece, and 
the three next work back, take up these four loops and three more, work off, take 


130 


KNITTING AND CROCHET 


up seven and three more and *, work off, increase a chain before the third from 
the end, take up the loops, increase on the chain, take up all the last little row 
and three more, work back from *; when all the loops are raised, work three more 
rows, always increasing one stitch before the last three loops in working off, at the 
end of third row make six chain, take up on this five loops, one on the chain before 
the three last loops, and all the remainder; work all off. In the next, which we will 
call the first row of neck, take up all the loops but the last four, two together, 
take up two; work off. 

Second and third rows.—Plain. 

Fourth row.—Like first row. Four rows plain. 

Ninth row.—Take up all, increase one in working off between the third and 
fourth loops. 

Tenth row.—Take up all the loops, and one on the extra chain, work off two, 
a chain, work off the rest; repeat this row three more times, in the fourth repetition 
cast two on the needle when the loops are taken up; work all off. 

Fifteenth row, and three n*ext rows.—Plain. 

Nineteenth row.—Decrease at the end by working the third and fourth from 
the end together, two rows plain; repeat from the nineteenth row three times, 
then work nineteen plain rows, join to the other side the back with a row of single 
crochet; take the right front, work a row of double crochet up the front edge, 
round the neck, and down the left front, fasten off; place the first six stitches of 
the right front over the left one, and work them together with the first six stitches 
of the left front, and work a row of double crochet round the whole of the bottom 
of the back and fronts, then one double crochet on the first double crochet on the 
right front, one chain, miss two double crochet, in the next work one treble, four 
chain, one single on the first chain, four times, after the last picot of four chain, 
work another treble stitch, one chain, miss three double crochet, one double 
crochet in the third double crochet, miss three double crochet, and repeat, finish 
on the last double crochet; repeat this little border, on the fifth row of loops, or 
fifth stitch in all the rows, commencing in the neck and holding the opening next 
to you. We now make the skirt. This is double. Commence in the middle of 
the back with a double crochet on the last row worked, four chain, one treble on 
the next stitch, *, two chain, one treble on the next; repeat from *, missing a 
stitch between every second and third treble stitches. There must be sixty-six 
treble stitches in this row. Join with a single to the third of the first four chain, 
which forms the first treble in the round. 

Second round.—Five chain, *, one treble over the next two chain, two chain; 
repeat from *, at the end of the round work two chain, and join with a single to 
the fourth of the fifth chain; work nine more rounds like the second round. 

Tenth round.—*, One double crochet over the next two chain, four treble 
over the following two chain; repeat from *, join neatly on the first double crochet 
and fasten off. Over this skirt you work the fancy flounce. Commence in the 
center of the back with one treble on each of the first two double crochet, *, miss 
a double crochet in the next, work two treble, two chain, two treble, one chain, miss 
the next double crochet, one treble in each of the two following; repeat from *; at 
the end of the round work one chain a single on the first treble. 

Second round.—Four chain, one treble on the second treble * over the two 
chain between the four treble, work two treble, two chain, two treble, one chain, 
one treble on each of the two next treble; repeat from *; work five more rounds 


KNITTING AND CROCHET. 


! 3 i 

like the last round, then work six more rounds, working two chain after the four 
treble, and always taking up the first of the two single treble stitches in the last 
of these two chain. 

Fourteenth round.—One double crochet between the first two treble stitches 
*, one chain, over the next two chain, between the four trebles work a treble, a 
picot of four chain six times, a treble again, one chain, one double crochet be¬ 
tween the two next treble; repeat from *, and fasten off at the end of the round. 

The Collar. —Take up the double crochet just over the first whole row on the 
front shoulder. Take up thirty-five loops round the neck, which should bring you 
to the corresponding row on the next shoulder. Work off two, increase a chain; 
work off six, increase one; work off one, increase one; work off eight, increase 
one; work off two, increase one; work off eight, increase one; work off one, in¬ 
crease one; work off six, increase one; work off two. 

Second row.—Take up all the loops and oneon each of the increasings. Work 
off two, increase; work off seven, increase; work off three, increase; work off nine, 
increase; work off two, increase. These two are in the center of the back. Work 
off nine, increase; work off three, increase; work off seven, increase; work off two. 

Third row.—Take up all the loops, and oneon each increased stitch. Work off 
two, increase; work off eight, increase; work off four, increase; work off ten, in¬ 
crease; work off two, increase; work off ten, increase; work off four, increase; work 
off eight, increase; work off two. 

Fourth and fifth rows.—Increase in the same places as in the third row. 

Sixth row.—Take up all the loops and one on each increasing; work off plain. 

Seventh row.—Take up all the loops; work back an increased row as before. 

Eighth and ninth rows.—Plain; fasten off. 

Tenth row.—Commence on the right-hand side edge of the ninth row; work a 
row of double crochet round the collar. 

Eleventh row—Commence the lace; work a treble on the first double crochet, 
miss a double crochet, *, two treble, two chain, two treble, in the next, one 
chain, miss a double crochet, two treble; in the next double crochet miss a double 
crochet; repeat from *. At the corners leave no double crochet between any of the 
treble stitches; at the end of the row fasten off. On this last row work six rows 
like the top skirt, then the edge. Loop the lace together a little in the width, and 
work the edge on the row of double crochet in the neck; a row of double crochet 
all round the neck, and fasten off. 

The Sleeve. —Make a chain of thirty stitches, take up twelve, work off, three 
chain, take up two on this chain, the twelve, and three more, work off eighteen, 
*, and four more chain, take up three, take up eighteen, and four more, work all 
off; repeat from * until all the loops are taken up. Forty-eight loops must be on 
the work. 

Sixteen rows plain. 

Seventeenth row.—Take up twenty, two together, take up four, two together; 
take up rest, and work off. 

Eighteenth row.—Plain. 

Nineteenth row.—Take up nineteen, two together, take up four, two together; 
take up the rest, and work off. 

Twentieth row.—Plain. 

Work these two last rows, always decreasing one on each side the four center 
stitches, until you have worked six rows of decreasings; join it up, then a row of 


132 


KNITTING AND CROCHET. 


double crochet, and fasten off. Hold the edge of the double crochet toward you, 
and work on it four rows of the lace, and on the last row the edge, fasten off on the 
outer edge of the double crochet row. Work one double crochet on the first 
double crochet; *, miss a double crochet, one chain, then four treble, in the next 
double crochet one chain, miss a double crochet, one double crochet in the next; 
repeat from *, and fasten off. Sew a piece of galloon ribbon under the row of but¬ 
ton-holes, and also under the row on which the buttons are placed. Sew blue satin 
strings in the front; a sash just over the flounce, fastening it at each side seam, and 
letting it fall behind. Sew the frill under the first skirt on the row of double 
crochet; add the lace in the neck and sleeves. 





knitting and crochet. 


133 


AFGHANS. 


We give under the head of Tricot Stitches, plain and fancy, a great variety of 

sic es suitable forafghans. Spot stitch, either raised or hollow (see Nos 28-9) it 

very pretty for afghans and is not difficult to work, although to the uninitiated it 

If ol S a SQ 7 h Ste 7 US ' . A Pre “>' af « han ma >’ be by working alternate stripes 

of plain afghan (or tncot) stitch, and some fancy stitch, as, for instance, raised spot 

1 ch, cross tncot stitch, Muscovite tricot, tricot ecossais, etc. Directions for all 
tnese will be found among the tricot crochet stitches. 

NO. 58. HANDSOME AFGHAN, OR BERCEAUNETTE COVER. 

Materials required: White Berlin or Germantown wool (single), bright blue 
ditto, blue floss silk, straw-colored floss silk, and small Roman pearl beads- 
also a tricot hook, rather small size. 


Make a chain of twenty-six stitches in white wool; on these crochet in plain 



No. 58—Afghan. 


afghan stitch twenty-five rows. (In tricot, a row consists of working up and off 
the loops.) Now break off the white and join the blue wool. Work eight rows in 
this; now join the white and work twenty-four rows of it. Continue thus alter¬ 
nating the blue and white blocks until you have six blocks of white and five of 

























i34 


KNITTING AND CROCHET. 


blue, the last (white block), like the first, must have twenty-five rows, as the bor¬ 
dering makes these blocks look smaller. 

Second (narrow) stripe.—Cast on eight stitches of blue wool and work twenty- 
five rows; now join the white wool and work eight rows, then work twenty-four 
rows of blue again; alternate these until you have six blue blocks and five white 
ones, remembering that the last (blue) block should have twenty-five rows. Care 
must be taken in making this afghan to work it all with the same degree of tight¬ 
ness, as otherwise the pattern of the stripes will not match. Make in this way five 
of the broad stripes and four narrow ones. Crochet the stripes together with wool, 
then work a line of single crochet to cover the joinings, in the yellow floss. On 
the large white blocks work a figure in cross stitch (see illustration) in the blue 
floss, with four little stars of the same. Put a pearl in each star. Make a larger 
star of yellow floss in the small white blocks (in narrow stripe) with a pearl in the 
center. 

Border: First row.—Work a row of double crochet in blue all around the 
afghan, working one stitch in every stitch of the afghan, only every other stitch 
the needle is put one stitch deeper into the afghan, which makes a pretty effect. 
Remember to increase sufficiently at the corners to keep them from turning up. 

Second and third rows.—Double crochet all around. 

Fourth row.—Raised spot stitch, worked thus: One double crochet, *, put the 
wool round the hook, and insert into a stitch of second row, passing over third 
row; now work a treble as far as the point where two loops are left on the hook, 
work two more trebles into the same stitch up to the same length. Take the wool 
on hook and draw through the four loops at once. Leave the stitch of the preced¬ 
ing row under the spot unworked, work one double crochet; repeat from *. 

Fifth row.—Double crochet. 

A separate border is now worked in points in tricot stitch in white wool. 
Begin with three stitches and increase one every row (at the same end always) 
until you have ten stitches. Work two rows of ten stitches each, then diminish in 
the same way until you have three stitches. Work two rows of three stitches, and 
proceed as before. Join to the blanket in the same sort of double crochet as the 
first row of border. Work these points all around the edge in blue wool, in 
button-hole stitch, every other stitch being deeper. Finish with tassels of white 
wool, at the tip of every point and between each point. 

N °. 59 .-CROCHET QUILT, IN ROUND CROCHET TRICOTEE. 

The crochet tricotee, or afghan crochet, has always been worked before on one 
needle. We here give the manner of working it round, using four needles. Knit- 



No. 59-a —Detail of quilt. No. 59-^— Detail of quilt. 


ting needles with a crochet hook at one end have oeen introduced for knittin 
stockings; and a great relief it is to the hand, to vary the monotony of a Ion 


Crq crq 







KNITTING AND CROCHET. 


*35 

stocking by working a few rows in crochet; and no perceptible difference is made 



No. 59 —Crochet quilt, in round crochet tricotee. 



No. 59-c—D etail of quilt. 



No. 59-aC-D etail of quilt. 



No. 59-f Detail of quilt. No. 59-/-Detail of quilt, 

in the work. This cover requires four long bone crochet hooks, No. n. You also 
require some dark cardinal and cream or gray Saxony wool. The engraving is 















































































































i3 6 


KNITTING AND CROCHET. 


shown in two colors to make it more easy to follow. The squares can be worked 
in two shades of each color, but look far better in one. You commence by mak¬ 
ing a chain of four stitches unite. Take up the next chain on the needle, take a 
second needle, make with it a loop through the last one made, and take up the 
next chain; take a third needle, make a loop through the one on the last needle, 
and take up the next chain, making two stitches on each of these needles; take 
the fourth needle, and draw through the last loop on the third needle; then make 
a loop through the first on the first needle: work back one in each stitch, in the 
usual way, and using each successive needle. At the end of the round the work 
will present the appearance in the engraving No. 59 ~ a - Draw the stitch at the end 
of the needle through the next loop. 

Second round.—Put the wool before the needle and make another loop in the 
stitch on the needle. Take up the next long loop; it looks very much like a chain 
stitch. Take another needle, make a loop in the last stitch, take up the next long 

loop, and the following, which looks 
like another chain stitch. Take the 
third needle, make a loop in the last 
stitch, and take up two more. Take the 
fourth needle, make a stitch in the last 
loop, one on the work, and one in the 
first stitch on the first needle. No. 59-f 
and d show the work in this row; and 
No. 59 -f shows it finished. You now 
work back as before, using each succes¬ 
sive needle. Before working the last 
stitch, take the needie out and draw it 
through the first of this row, which 
joins the two. 

Third round.—Make a loop in the 
first stitch by putting the wool in the 
front of the work and then drawing it 
through the long loop. Take up two more 
long loops, then make another loop in the 
last loop. You now have five on the needle. Take the next needle, make a loop in the 
last on the first needle, take up three more stitches, and make a stitch in the last of the 
three. These are the corner stitches in the square. Take the fourth needle, make one 
in the last, take up two on the work, and work two in the first loop. Work back as 
before. You work in this way, working two more stitches each round on each 
side until you have worked eleven rounds. The squares are joined together with 
a row of double crochet. The squares are then embroidered, the dark ones with 
sprays of leaves in gold silk, the light ones with gold and red flowers; the corner 
stitches of the squares are worked over with gold wool, in outline stitch, and this 
divides the squares in triangular pieces. When all are worked and joined together, 
you work the border; this looks well in shades. 

First row in double crochet, taking up both edges of the stitch. 

Second row.—In the first double crochet work a double crochet, two chain, 
miss two double crochet, a double crochet in the next. 

Third row.—*, One double crochet on the double crochet under the next chain, 



No. 59-^-— Detail of quilt. 


KNITTING AND CROCHET. 


l 37 


work four treble, join the last treble to the first, this forms ashell, then two double 
crochet again; repeat from *. 

Fourth row.—Double crochet. 

Fifth row.—Another row of loop crochet, worked as in the third row, and work¬ 
ing the four treble between those of the third row; work in this manner until 
you have four rows of balls or shells; then work the edge. This row is worked 
with alternate sets of treble in the colors used for the work, one double crochet, 
*, between the two balls, work five long, one double crochet, over the next ball; 
repeat from *. On this row work a row of single crochet, one stitch on each 
stitch of the last row. 

NO. 60. -CROCHET COUNTERPANE. 

Materials required : Crochet cotton, No. io, and a medium-sized steel hook. 

Commence each row at the same side, and in order to keep the pattern right 



side out, cut off the cotton at the end of each row, and draw up the last stitch 
tightly, and sew the cotton neatly through the back of the work. 

For each square make a chain of fifty-seven stitches. 








































































































































KNITTING AND CROCHET. 


J 3 8 


First row.—One treble into each stitch. 

Second row.—One treble into each of five stitches, working into the back 
horizontal loop of each stitch, *, seven trebles into the next treble of previous row, 
keep the top loop of each on the hook and draw through all together. (All the 
balls are made in this way: hence the directions will not be repeated.) One treble 
into each of three next stitches, one ball into next stitch, one treble into each of 
nine next stitches; repeat from * twice more, one ball into next stitch, one treble 
into each of three next stitches, one ball into next stitch, one treble into each of 
five next stitches. 

Third row.—One treble into each of three stitches, *, one ball, one treble into 
each of seven stitches, one ball, one treble into each of five stitches; repeat from * 
three times more. At the end of the row there will be three instead of five stitches 
to work upon. 

Fourth row.—One treble into each of three stitches, one ball, one treble into 
each of ten stitches, one ball, one treble into each of thirteen stitches, one ball, one 
treble into each of thirteen stitches, one ball, one treble into each of ten stitches, 
one ball, one treble into each of three stitches. 

Fifth row.—One treble into each of three stitches, one ball, one treble into each 
of forty-nine stitches, one ball, one treble into each of three stitches. 

Sixth row.—One treble into each of five stitches, one ball, one treble into each 
of twenty-two stitches, one ball, one treble into each of twenty-two stitches, one 
ball, one treble into each of five stitches. 

Seventh row.—One treble into each of seven stitches, one ball, one treble into 
each of seventeen stitches, one ball, one treble into each of five stitches, one ball 
one treble into each of seventeen stitches, one ball, one treble into each of seven 
stitches. 

Eighth row.—One treble into each of five stitches, one ball, one treble into 
each of seventeen stitches, one ball, one treble into each of nine stitches, one ball, 
one treble into each of seventeen stitches, one ball, one treble into each of five 
stitches. 

Ninth row.—One treble into each of three stitches, one ball, one treble into 
each of seventeen stitches, one ball, one treble into each of thirteen stitches, one 
ball, one treble into each of seventeen stitches, one ball, one treble into each of 
three stitches. 

Tenth row.—One treble into each of three stitches, one ball, one treble into 
each of fifteen stitches, one ball, one treble into each of three stitches, one ball, one 
treble into each of nine stitches, one ball, one treble into each of three stitches, one 
ball, one treble into each of fifteen stitches, one ball, one treble into each of three 
stitches. 

Eleventh row.—One treble into each of five stitches, one ball, one treble into 
each of eleven stitches, one ball, one treble into each of seven stitches, one ball, one 
treble into each of five stitches, one ball, one treble into each of seven stitches, one 
ball, one treble into each of eleven stitches, one ball, one treble into each of five 
stitches. 

Twelfth row.—One treble into each of seven stitches, one ball, one treble into 
each of seven stitches, one ball, one treble into each of twelve stitches, one ball, 
one treble into each of twelve stitches, one ball, one treble into each of seven 
stitches, one ball, one treble into each of seven stitches. 


KNITTING AND CROCHET. 


*39 


This makes exactly one half the square, the other half is like the first half, 
worked backward to the first row. 

For the edge: 

First row.—Work two trebles, separated by five chain, into a corner stitch of 
square, *, two chain, one treble into the top of next row of square; repeat from * 



No. 60-a— Square for crochet counterpane—full size. 


twenty times more, two chain, two treble separated by five chain into corner, *, 
two chain, pass over two stitches, one treble into the next; repeat from last * 
twenty times more, two chain; repeat from the beginning of the row once more. 

Second row.—One treble into each stitch of last row, except at the corners in 
each of these stitches; work five trebles. 

NO. 6l.-INSERTION TO ACCOMPANY CROCHET COUNTERPANE. 

Make a chain of sixteen stitches; work backward and forward with one treble 
into each stitch for eight rows. In the forward rows work into the back horizontal 
loop of each stitch. In the backward rows work into the front horizontal loops; 

































































































































































































140 


KNITTING AND CROCHET 


this will make the right side even with the chain-like stripe across. The next 
square is commenced on the side of the last, then the third square at the side of 
the second, and so on. (See design.) 

For the edge, work one double into a point of square, nineteen chain, one 
double into the fourteenth, thirteen chain, one double into the eighth, two chain, one 



No. 61 —Insertion for crochet counterpane. 


double into side of square (see design), seven chain, one double into the third, one 
double into each of four of thirteen chain, nine chain, one double into the fifth, two 
chain, one double into side of next square (see design), seven chain, one double into 
the second, one double into each of four of nine chain, and one double into four of 
thirteen chain, five chain, one double into the first, one double into two stitches of 
nineteen chain, ten chain. Repeat from the beginning of the row. 

The other side is worked in the same way. 

NO. 62. -BORDER FOR CROCHET COUNTERPANE. 

This is worked in squares like the insertion. 

Work one square, then work a square on each end of the first, work a square 
at the side of the lower square, then one above it, joining to the center one of the 
three squares with single stitches. After working the last stitch of each forward 
row the side is fin:shed by another square. 

For the patterns between the squares, work eight chain, one double into a 
stitch at the side of the square (see design), *, one half treble, four trebles, two half 
trebles, and one double into the eight chain. Repeat from * four times more, join¬ 
ing the second leaf in'o the depth between two squares, the third into the side of 
next square (see design). The two last leaves are left unjoined. 

For the heading: 

First row.—One double into a point of square, seven chain, one double into 
point of next leaf, seven chain, one double into next leaf, seven chain. Repeat 
from the beginning of the row. 

Second row.—One treble into each stitch. 

Third row.—One treble into a stitch, two chain, pass over two stitches and 
repeat. 





















KNITTING AND CROCHET. 


For the edge: 

First row.—One treble into the first stitch of square in the depth of Vandyke, 
two chain, pass over two stitches and repeat all round. 

In the square in which the chain stitches do not form the edge, work the 
trebles into the chain stripe of the square (see design). At the point of Vandyke, 
do not pass over a stitch, and work five instead of two chain. 



No. 02—Border hjk crochet counterpane. 


Second row.—Three double treble into a stitch; keep the top loop of each on 
the hook, draw through all together, *, seven chain, one double into the third. 
Repeat from * twice more, two chain, three double trebles, worked as before, into 
the same stitch the last were worked into, pass over seven stitches and repeat from 
the beginning of the row. 

NO. 63 .-PETTICOAT IN TRICOTEE. 

This petticoat is worked lengthwise in scarlet and white wool. Cast on one 
hundred and two stitches in scarlet; work twelve plain rows. 

First gore.—Raise eighteen stitches, work back, raise twenty-two stitches, 
work back, continue the gore by raising four stitches each row; tricotee five rows 
plain. 

Second gore.—Same as first; tricotee five rows plain. 







































































142 


KNITTING AND CROCHET. 


Third gore.—Raise thirty, work back, increase gore by raising six stitches 
each row; tricotee eighteen rows. 

Fourth gore.— Raise all but six, work back, and continue the gore, by leaving 
six less each row; tricotee five rows. 

Fifth gore.—Work all but four, work back, leave four less each- row; tricotee 
five rows. 

Sixth gore.—Work all but four, work back, leave four less each row; tricotee 
twelve rows plain, then join the petticoat. 

Border. —Cast on thirty stitches in white. 

First row.—Knit plain. 

Second row.—Purl. 

Third row.—Knit. 

Fourth row.—Purl; join scarlet for— 

Fifth row.—Purl. 

Sixth row.—Purl. 

Seventh row. Slip two for purling, *, purl two, slip one; repeat from * to 
end of row. 

Eighth row.—* Slip one, wool forward, purl two together; repeat from *. 

Ninth row. Slip one, *, slip loose stitch, purl two separately; repeat from *. 

Tenth row. ■*, Slip one, wool forward, purl two together; repeat from *. 

Eleventh row.—Slip one, slip loose stitch, purl two separately. 

Twelfth row.—Purl each stitch. 

Thirteenth row.—Purl. 

Fourteenth row. Join on white wool, and knit plain; repeat from second 
row. To finish it at bottom work with scarlet one double crochet in center of 
white stripe, one chain; six treble in scarlet, one chain, one double in white. 
\\ hen the border is sewed on the skirt, work with white on top of border five 
chain, one treble crochet on first chain, one double on the scarlet stripe. 

For band, work two rows of plain tricotee, work one row, missing three loops, 
then two plain rows again. 

no. 64 .—purse; crochet. 



Material: Fawn-colored thread. Crochet thirty-six stitches. 

First row.—One double in every stitch. 

Second row.—On ' chain, two double 
(in back part of stitch), then one double 
in each stitch, two double in last stitch. 

Third row.—One chain, double 
crochet. 

Fourth to thirty-second row.—Like 
the second and third rows alternately. 

Thirty-third row.—Like the third. 

Thirty-fourth row.—Double crochet, 
missing first and last stitch. 

Thirty-fifth to sixty-fifth row.—Like 
thirty-third and thirty-fourth rows. 

1 ^ t No. 64 —Purse. 

1 his completes the center part. 

For each of the side-pieces crochet twenty-eight stitches. 

Fiist row. Double crochet, turn the work, one chain, double crochet in back 
part of stitch, four double in last of foundation stitch, twenty-seven double. 


























KNITTING AND CROCHET. 


T 43 


Third row.—Turn the work, one chain, going back along the work double 
crochet as before, increasing in the middle of the work as required. 

Fourth to twelfth row.—Like the preceding. Join the pieces together on the 
wrong side with double crochet. 

no. 65 .—PURSE. 

Fawn-colored and brown purse silk. Along a chain of eighty-eight stitches 
(pale shade) crochet sixty-two rows double crochet, but the third, fifth, nine¬ 
teenth, twenty-first, forty-first, forty- 
third, fifty-seventh and fifty-ninth rows 
are crocheted with brown silk; and in 
the ninth, fifteenth, forty-seventh and 
fifty-third the two shades are used as 
follows: 

Ninth row.—Five double with 
fawn color, and six double with brown; 
repeat, always drawing up the last 
stitch of the one shade with the first of 
the other. 

Tenth row.—One double, * (brown), 
three double (fawn), one double 
(brown), six double (fawn); repeat 
seven times from *. 

Eleventh row.—One double (fawn), 
*, three double (brown), three fawn, two 
brown, three fawn; repeat from * seven 
times, but in the last repetition crochet 
only two double (fawn) instead of 
three. 

Twelfth row.—One double (fawn), 
*, three double (brown), two fawn, one 
brown, two fawn, one brown, two fawn; 
repeat seven times from *, crocheting one fawn instead of two at the end of the 
last repetition. 

Thirteenth row.—Like the eleventh. 

Fourteenth row.—Like the tenth. 

Fifteenth row.—Like the ninth. 

Forty-seventh row to fifty-third row—Like ninth to fifteenth. 

When the sixty-second row is finished, crochet twenty-two double for the 
opening, and then work to and fro for the center of the purse. 

Sixty-third row.—Along the last stitches with the same silk, three chain to form 
one treble, then miss one, one treble, one chain; repeat; close with one treble in first 
stitch of this row. 

Sixty-fourth row.—Turn the work, three chain to form one treble, then one 
treble in chain, one chain; repeat, close with one treble in first stitch. 

Sixty-fifth to eighty-seventh rows.—Like the preceding. This completes the 
center. Then crochet the other end of the purse as follows: 

Twenty-two stitches in the first twenty-two of the eighty-seventh row, then 
twenty-five rows double crochet with same silk; then repeat third to twenty-first 
row. The purse is then finished with twenty-two rows of fawn color, decreasing 
as follows: 





















144 


KNITTING AND CROCHET. 


In the first row crochet every tenth and eleventh stitches together; and repeat 
this, narrowing every three rows till all the stitches can be drawn up together in 
the last row. 


NO. 66.-RUG TO LAV ACROSS THE KNEES. 



The center of the rug is crocheted in Victoria or afghan stitch along a chain of 
the required length with thick brown wool, and has a pattern in purls and raised 

spots. (See No. 28.) When this 
crocheted center is finished, it is 
edged with fawn-colored Java can¬ 
vas cloth, six inches wide, the 
seams at the corners being care¬ 
fully managed. 

The design for this border 
is worked in cross stitch with 
colored wools, and in point russe 
and feather stitch with old-gold 
silk. 


No. 66—Rug. 


Round the outer edge of the 
rug are two rows crocheted with 
the brown wool as follows: 

One double in four horizontal 
threads of the cloth together, miss 
three vertical threads, one double 
in eight horizontal threads to¬ 
gether, miss three vertical threads; 
repeat. 

Second round.—*, One doub¬ 
le in next double, miss one 
stitch, seven treble in next stitch, 
miss one stitch. Repeat from * 
Then finish off the rug with balls 
of brown wool, as shown in the il¬ 
lustration. 


NO. 67. -COSY FOR baby's BOTTLE. 

This pretty and convenient little article is made of blue and white wool. 

For the Lower Part .—Crochet with blue wool as follows: Make a circle of 

four chain, on this crochet a circular piece of work, in 
double crochet for seven rows, increase as required 
to make the circle lie flat, and use white wool for 
the third, fourth and fifth rows. 

For the Upper Tart .—Crochet in Victoria or any 
afghan stitch, along a foundation chain of forty- 
eight stitches, twenty-four rows thus: Six stitches 
white, six stitches blue alternately to end of row; 
after every four rows change the position, so that 
the white stitches will come above the blue, and the 
blue above the white, forming blocks. Now sew the 
sides of the straight piece together, and sew the cir¬ 
cular piece on to it, at the lower edge. Round the 
upper edge, crochet with white wool, as follows: 

One double treble, one chain, miss one; repeat; 
close with slip-stitch. 

Second round.—With blue wool, *, one double in 
cnain stitch, four chain, one double in third of the 
four chain, two chain; repeat from *. Close with 
a slip-stitch. The cosy is drawn up with narrow rib- 



67—Cosy. 


bon passed through the round of white wool. 



































Useful and Practical Books for Everybody, 


Burt’s Selected Gems of Song'. A choice selec¬ 
tion of Sixty-two Favorite Songs, from the works of the 
best composers, with accompaniments for piano and or¬ 
gan. This book is printed on good paper, full sheet music 
size, and bound with a handsome engraved cover. Con- 
t"nts sent free. Price, 50 cents. Sent post-paid for 
60 cents. 

Burt's Selected Gems of Melody : For the 
piano and organ. A collection of Eighty Popular Com¬ 
positions of Instrumental Music for the home, selected 
from the works of favorite composers. This book is 
printed on good paper, full sheet-music size, and bound 
with a handsome engraved cover. Contents sent free. 
Price 50 cents. Sent post-paid for 60 cents. 

Burt’s Selected Gems of Dance Music. A 

Choice Collection of Seventy-eight Pieces of Standard 
Dance Music, from the works of favorite composers, ar¬ 
ranged for the Piano and Organ, consisting of Galops, 
Marches, Mazurkas, Polkas. Quadrilles, Quicksteps, Schot- 
tlsehes. Waltzes, etc. This book is printed on good 
paper, full sheet-music size, and bound with a handsome 
engraved cover. Con>ents sent free. Price, 50 cents. 
Sent post-paid for 60 cents. 


THE JENNY JUNE SERJES OF MANUALS FOR LADIES, 

Needle-Work : A manual of stitches and studies 
in embroidery and drawn work. Edited by Jenny 
June, l his manual is an attempt to systematize and 
arrange in an order convenient for workers, the modern 
methods in Embroidery and Drawn Work. The author 
has felt the desire and the responsibility involved in 
aiding women to a true and practical guide to the beau¬ 
tiful art of needle-work. When the Angel of Mtrcy 
begged that woman might not be created, because she 
would be abused by man, as iho stronger, the Lord 
listened, but felt that he could not give up the whole 
scheme of creation, so he gave the loving Angel pc mis¬ 
sion to b"Stow upon her any compensating gift she chose, 
and thi Angel pityingly endowed her with tears and the 
love of needle-work The list of stitches, with studies and 
illustrations, arc Buttonhole, Hemstitch, Bi ier Stitch, 
Crow’s Foot, Herring Bone, Fodder Stitch. Two Tie, 
Three Tie. Drawn Work, Stem Stitch, Twisted Chain or 
Hope Stitch, Split Stitch, French Knot, Solid Leaf, Satin 
Stitch, Padding, Darning Stitch, Skeleton Outline, 
Couching, Kensington, Filling Stitches, Coral Stitch, Ital¬ 
ian, Leviathian and Holb-in Stitches, Applique. Inter¬ 
laced Ground, Weaving Stitch, Gold and Silver Thread 
Embroidery, Arrasene Ribbon Work, with studies and 
designs in needle-work for My Lady’s Chamber, My 
Lady’s Robe, The Dinino Room, Parlor and Library, 
and for Linen and Cotton Fabrics. Wii h over 200 
Illustrations of stitches and designs. Large octavo, 
paper covers. Price 50 cents. 

Knitting and Crochet: A guide to the use of 
the needle and the hook. Edited by Jenny June. In ar¬ 
ranging this work the editor has taken special pains to 
systematize and classify its different departments, give 
the greatest possible variety of designs and stitches, and 
explain the technical details so clearly, that any one can 
easily follow the directions. There are a large variety 
of stitches and a great number of patterns fully illus¬ 
trated and described, which have all been tested by an 
expert before insertion in this collection. The rim of the 
editor has been to supply women with an accurate and 
satisfactory guide to knitting and crochet work All 
known stitches are given, with designs, and directions 
are given to knit and crochet Afghans, Boots, Borders, 
Cane Work, Yokes and Sleeves. Clouds, Comforters, Coun¬ 
terpanes, Stockings, Drawers, Edging, Gaiters, Jackets, 
Knee Caps, Mittens, Petticoats, Purses, Quilts, Rugs, 
Shawls, Shirts, Socks, Undervests, Venetian Lace, and 
many others. All stitches and designs in Macrame work 
are given (with over 200 illustrat ous of stitches and de- 
s gns). Large octavo, paper covers. Price, 50 cents. 

The Ladies’ Manual of Fancy Work : A new 
book giving plain directions for Artistic Embroidery, 
Lace Work, Knitting, Tatting, Crochet Work, Net Work, 
and all kinds of Fancy Needle-work. This valuable book 
is beautifully printed on fine tinted paper, and contains 
over 500 illustrations, comprising designs for Mono¬ 
grams, Initials, Edgings, Cross Stitch, Point Russe, Berlin, 
and Shetland Wool. Applique, Kate Greenaway de¬ 
signs for Doilies, etc., Handkerchief Borders, Macrame, 
Holbein Work, Java Canvas, Fringes, Turkish Rugs, 
Toilet Cushions, Foot Stools, Work Baskets, Lambrequms, 
Work Bags. Scrap Baskets, Table-top Patterns, Folding 
Screens, Sofa Cushions, Slipper Patterns, Wall Pockets, 
Towel Racks, Tidies, Catchalls, Chair bolsters. School 
Bazs, -atchwork, Tricot and Burlaps. Wood Baskets, 
Bibs, Shoe Bags, Jewel Boxes, Knitted Jackets, Pillow 
Shams, and hundreds of other designs in fancy work. 
Plain directions with each design. Jenny June in her 
preface to this book says: “ The present volume aims to 
supply within its compass a greater variety of excel¬ 
lent designs-every one of which is useful, for dress or 
household decoraitinn—than have ever before been 
gathered within the leaves of one manual.” Every lady 
will And this book a useful companion and invaluable to 
all who love fancy work. Large quarto, paper covers. 
Price, 50 cents. 


POPULAR HAND-BOOKS FOR YOUNG PEOPLE. 

How to Do Business : And succeed in it. By 
A. W. Astor. A guide to success in life, embracing chap¬ 
ters on Principles of Business, Kinds of Business, Qualifi 
cations for Bus ; ness, Choice rf a Pursuit, Mercantile Pur¬ 
suits, How to Get Customers, How to Keep Customers, 
Manufacturing, Mechanical Trades, Causes of Failure, 
Trade to Learn, Abuse of Credit, Extravagance, Bad 
Personal Habits, Book-keeping, Simple Acc unts. Single 
and Double Entry, Ledger and Cash-b ok Forms, Bills or 
Invoices, Statements, Notes, Drafts, etc., etc., with an ap¬ 
pendix of business forms, and a dictionary of commercial 
terms. To every young man this book will be invaluable 
in assisting to give a business education. Paper covers. 
Price, 15 «euts. 

Short-Hand for Everybody. By E. 3. Burnz. 
Pitman’s Phonography improved and the art of short¬ 
hand brought to rule and reason. The method which 
is explained and illustrated in this hook, is the simplest, 
swiftest and most legible mode of short-hqnd writing ever 
presented for general adoption. This system of short hand 
is as legible as common writing. Such is the simplicity of 
the art that its principles may be mastered inafe-v hours. 
Two hours’ daily practice for three months in reading 
and writing it will enable any one, young or old, to make 
verbatim reports of sermons, lectures, etc , and to read 
them at any time readily and accurately. With this book 
alone boys and girls can become excellent reporters and 
earn large salaries, from $1,000 to $2,5u0 per year as ex¬ 
pert stenographers. You can perfect yourself in a short 
time so that you will have a pleasant and profitable occu¬ 
pation. Paper covers. Price, 15 cents. 

The Album Writer’s Assistant : A hand-book 
of choice selections of Prose and Poetry for writing in 
Autograph Albums, Valentines, Letters, and for Birthday 
and Wedding Celebrations. Most people are frequently 
solicited by their friends to write in their albums, but 
how frequently is it the case, that the person asked has 
found it utterly impossible at the moment to draw from 
the well of their own thoughts, the sentiment they de¬ 
sired to express, or to call to memory any appropriate 
quotation ; or in writing a letter, to make more effective 
their own thoughts by introducing a graceful and suit¬ 
able quotation. A few moments’ research of the pages 
of this manual will always disclose some attractive ex- 
ression in prose or poetry, expressive of almost every 
uman feeling and sentiment, such as love, friendship 
respect, admiration, good wishes, etc., etc. With this 
book at hand you can readily oblige all your friends that 
request you to inscribe your expression of friendship. 
Paper covers. Price, 15 cents. 

The Young: Elocutionist. Illustrated. A book 
of incalculable value for every one. The instructions con¬ 
tained in this little volume will enable any one possessed 
of the organs of speech, no matter what his natural dis¬ 
advantages, to become an accomplished speaker. It tells 
you how to acquire ease and self possession in the pres¬ 
ence of an audience, gives illustrations of positions, typi¬ 
fying all the emotions of the mind, and besides this, 
contains selected recitations on many subjects. Paper 
covers. Price, 15 cents. 

The Taxidermist’s Manual : How to collect, 
prepare, mount and preserve all varieties of beasts, birds, 
insects, etc., etc. By Prof. Graham Allen. A complete 
manual of instruction for the use of beginners and ama¬ 
teurs in the art of Taxidermy, with twenty-one descrip¬ 
tive illustrations. In Taxidermy a great field is opening 
to the boys of America. The study of natural history 
from actual specimens is fast becoming popular, and there 
is a great demand for collections of na> ive birds and quad¬ 
rupeds, insects, shells, plants, etc , by public institut ons 
and private customers. A boy can easily earn from $100 
to $200 per year in mounting birds and quadrupeds for 
public museums and customers generally. W th this 
illustrated manual a person can learn in a short time 
this interest.ng and instructive art. Paper covers. 
Price, 15 cents. 

Out-Door Sports. Illustrated A compendium of 
instructions for playing many of the most popular games 
for out-of-doors.—This is a book that should be in the 
hands of every youth. Full descriptions of the following 
games are given: I Spy, Tug-of-War, Fox, Hopping on the 
Bottle, Prisoners’ Base, Follow my Leader, Mount Horse, 
Cock Fighting, Tag, Bull in the Ring, Buck, Buck, How 
Many Horns ; The Drill Sergeant, Duck on the Rock, 
Warning, Leap-Frog, Hop, Step and Jump, Thread the 
Needle, >ee-'aw, Marble 0 , Kites, Tops, Hoops, Quoits, The 
Sucker, Archery, Foot-Ball, Croquet, The Swing, Ring the 
Nail, Cat and Mouse. Red, White and Blue. Simon Says, 
Spanish Fly, Grandmother’s Clock, King of the Castle, 
Baste the Bear, Pitch Stone, Drawing the Oven, Knock 
’em Down, Battle for the Banner. Fly the Garter, Chit 
Stone. While it contains full descriptions of all the old, 
well-known games, it also describes many new ones, and 
is illustrated in such a manner as to enable the reader 
to understand the games at sight, and endless amuse¬ 
ment be found In its pages. Paper covers. Price, 15 
cents. 

be sent post-paid on 


These books may be obtained of your bookseller, or they will 

receipt of the price by the publisher, A. L. BURT, 162 William St., New York. 




ADVERTISEMENT. 




GRAND SQUARE AND UPRIGHT 



PIANOFORTES 


Are Preferred by Leading Artists. 

The demands now made by an educated musical public are so exacting that very few Pianoforte Manufact¬ 
urers can produce instruments that will stand the test which merit requires. SOHMER & CO., as Manufact¬ 
urers, rank amongst this chosen few, who are acknowledged to be makers of standard instruments. In these days, 
when many Manufacturers urge the low price of their wares rather than their superior quality as an inducement 
to purchase, it may not be amiss to suggest that, in a Piano, quality and price are too inseparably joined to expect 
the one without the other. 

Every Piano ought to be judged as to the quality of its tone, its touch and its workmanship ; if any one of 
these is wanting in excellence, however good the others may be, the instrument will be imperfect. It is the com¬ 
bination of these qualities in the highest degree, that constitutes the perfect Piano, and it is this combination that 
has given the “ SOHMER ” its honorable position with the trade and the public. 

Musical authorities and critics prefer the “ SOHMER ” Pianos, and they are purchased by tliose.possessing 
refined musical taste and appreciating the richest quality of tone and the highest perfection generally in a Piano. 

THE SOHMER PIANOS ARE USED IN THE FOLLOWING INSTITUTIONS: 

New York College of Music, Villa De Sales Convent, Long Island. 

Vogt’s Conservatory of Music, N. Y. Normal Conservatory of Music, 

Villa Maria Convent, Montreal, Philadelphia Conservatory of Music, 

And most all the leading first-class Theatres in NEW YORK AND BROOKLYN. 

Received First Prize Centennial Exhibition, Philadelphia,! 876. Received First Prize 

at Exhibition, Montreal, Canada, 1881 and 1882. 

SOHMER & CO., 

manufacturers of 

GRAND, SQUARE AND UPRIGHT PIANOFORTES. 

WAREROOMS: 

149, 151, 153, 155 EAST 14Tfl STREET, N. Y. 




























ATKINSON’S (London) 

EXTRACT OF THE WHITE MOSS ROSE—tlie new 
Extract—a most delicate perfume. 

SOAPS, White Rose, etc.—(highly perfumed.) 

SACHETS, Violet, etc.—Unequaled for imparting a 
delicate fragrance to Lingerie, Gloves, etc. 

ORIENTAL TOOTH PASTE — New, Effective and 
Harmless. 

QUININE HAIR LOTION—superior to any other as 
Hair-dressing and Tonic. 

L’ADVOCAT (Paris) 

FLEUR DE CYGNE a la glycerine— all shades—as 
sold by the Maison du Blanc, Paris. The favorite 
Parisian Complexion Powder. 

JOHANN iNTON FARINA COLOGNE 

RED AND BLUE LABEL;—the best of Farina Colognes 
—prepared by the oldest firm of Farina. 

To be had of all leading Druggists and 
Fancy Goods Dealers. 



The BRIGHT¬ 
EST and BEST 
for knitting 
HOSE, MIT¬ 
TENS, WRIT¬ 
ERS, EDGINGS, 
Etc. 


The most DUR¬ 
ABLE shades for 
outlining. 


:: Wholesale Agents, 56 & 58 Murray St., New York. 

jj BOOKS ON F/mcy WORK- 


The most RELIABLE 
for Hand and Machine 
Sewing. 

Eureka Embroidery and 
Filling Silks in all Shades, 
and warranted THE BEST 
MADE. 

Send 10c in postage stamps 
for Book of Directions for 
Knitting, Embroidery, &c. 

Waste Embroidery Silk, 40c per ounce. Waste Sewing 1 Silk, 
25c per ounce. Sent postpaid. 

EUREKA SILK M’F’G CO., 

441 BROADWAY, IV. Y. 


DRAWN WORK. 

Complete directions in one volume, with numerous 
illustrations. Price, 25 Cents. 

HOW TO KNIT and WHAT TO KNIT. 

Complete in one volume. 78 illustrations. Price, 25 
Cents. 

KENSINGTON EMBROIDERY. 

Numerous illustrations. Price, 25 Cents. 

LADIES’ MANUAL OF FANCY WORK. 

400 illustrations. Price, 50 Cents. 

CRAZY PATCHWORK. 

New Stitches. Illustrated. Price, 25 Cents. 
LADIES’ BOOK OF KNITTING AND CROCHET. 
Price, 25 Cents. 

BARBOUR’S MACRAME BOOK. 

Illustrated. Price, 25 Cents. 


CROCHET SERIES. 


No. 


1. HOW TO CROCHET. 

With full explanations of all Crochet Stitches, and 
numerous illustrations. 

No. 2. LAMBREQUIN DESIGNS. 

Especially adapted for Twine. Illustrated. 

No. 3. MISCELLANEOUS DESIGNS. 

Tidies, Mats and Spreads. Illustrated. 

No. 4. FINE CROCHET WORK. 

Designs for Lace Edgings, Insertions, etc. 

No. 5. MALTESE CROCHET WORK, 

And Designs for Fringes, Afghans, etc. 

Price, 15 Cents Each. Scut Postpaid. 


- - Address HENRY BRISTOW, 

294 Fulton Street Brooklyn, N. Y. 

*" * "H" * -++*-+*" * " * " * - * " * -+*-+tti+*-*'+\++^***** + + * + ** ******* 



PALM K0SMEQ 

18 a valuable Toilet Ar¬ 
ticle, conceded by hun¬ 
dreds of ladies to be 
superior to anything 
yet discovered for pre¬ 
serving the skin and 
particularly for pre¬ 
venting Wrinkles. 
Its use causes the skin 
to retain the youthful 
appearance to old age. 

ft Is not a liquid, hut 
an ungent, to be used at 
night, and the skin ab¬ 
sorbs it. 

One test will satisfy 
the most sceptical. 

Price, ¥1.00 and 
$ 2 . 00 . 




KOSMEO POUDRE 

is one of the few powders 
used as a beautiner that 
is PERFECTLY IIARMLESS 
IN EVERY RESPECT. 

Many ladies object to Its 
being known that they 
use powder or any other 
cosmetic. This powder 
can be used and not be 
detected. “ Once used, al¬ 
ways used,” will be Its 
recommendation. 

Price, 50 cents and 
¥1.00 a Box. 

Send money by postal 
note, registered letter or 
check. 


uoT 


TURKISH BOSE LEAVES 

only the natural color. Perfectly harmless. 

Price, 50c. and ¥1.00 a bottle. By Express only. 

Mrs. C. THOMPSON, 

Patentee op the Thompson Wave. 

Make no mistake in the number, 32 E. 14th St., N. Y. 

These goods are to be obtained only from my estab¬ 
lishment, at 82 East Fourteenth Street, New York. 

Send money by postal note, registered letter or checks. 




















































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